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euan_r

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Posts posted by euan_r

  1. full aps all the way.

    cheaper kits wont cut it with all year round use up here, lack of dust seals etc.

    avoid made up kits as well, galvonic corrosion isnt nice.

    i am in process of securing 4 pot aps, more pots just means more even spread of pad pressure, if done right, no more.

  2. hi, i have just removed rear sti5/6 dampers to replace the pink springs for oe items for winter. ive dismantled the units and there are no bump stops visible, every other subaru ive tinkered with has had them present. The dirt gaitors are there. Are the bump stops missing or are they just located in strut housing due to them being inverted? thanks

    Edit:

    Found them inside incase anyone else ever searches.

  3. If its the pipe im thinking off, which ive replaced before, its actually a coolant pipe. Would be best replaced all the same if it getting corroded as they are avaliable new from dealers or import car parts. Oil must be comming from else where, another possibility would be the pump.

    Crank bolt shouldnt be on exceptionally tight, i presume you had the car in fifth.

  4. Cheers for the replies.

    If you don't mind me asking where did you get your Avon's from and how much/what type are they etc?

    I also understand their thinking but essentially they are saying that my current tyres are as good as any winter tyres in the wet etc and only useless in snow/mud. I was planning more on a Winter tyre to get my summer wheels/tyres off though (in saying that we have every season every month so should maybe just run them all year!).

    Brian :rolleyes:

    winter tyres have more silica so heat up and work a lot better than summer compounds in low temp. would never run summer tyres in winter especially ones with v shaped tread, just turn in to slicks in snow.

    i got the avon ice touring st from turriff tyres but they are taking care of alloys as well so dont know individual costs. looking online they appear to be fairly cheap.

  5. picking mine up next weekend on my refurbished 16" wheels.

    i would agree with your expert up to a point. the leggacy runs the cheapest tyres possible all year round, m+s are cheap. its had various makes heros, sportivas,ling longs lol. very rarely get stuck with it in snow, i guess five foot drifts were a bit optimistic. even managed up our farm road in a couple of feet with the space saver on due to puncture. however it runs 185/75/14 or something similar.

    my old impreza never got stuck either but it also had canadian snow tyres on, again in smaller 15" size.

    i had to stick with 16" to clear the four pot, guess you will have to stay with 17s to clear brembos. i did consider group n wheels to reduce size but they wear out wheel bearings more due to large offset and require centre hole to be machined.

    where i would disagree with your expert is the fact that we are likely to be driving in wet weather most of the time. the full blow snow tyres on old impreza i found to be very aquaplaney in standing water.

    i was after nokians but was told some of the popular winter brands such as nokian and verstadin were going to be tricky to get a hold of this year due to demand from continent, whether this is true i dont know. was steered to avon winter tyres in the end but have never tried them before so cant comment yet.

  6. i run mine 99% of the time fully back, due to the fact the plates will wear eventually.

    tbh i dont push in the wet anymore. When i was on a wet track day i decided after a while to move the dccd to first orange and it made a very significant change, for the better.

    running fully back didnt prove problematic when i was on a b road blast and anticipating a slide or two. i have however found it to bite a bit when ive been shattered and just wanting home (steady pace) and not being fully aware, circumstances fairly close to original posters.

    i also found fully locked cutting out in proper snow last year. At the end of the day ive come to the conclusion that its a bit of a gimmick, as i could push my old viscous centered car a hell of a lot more.

    edit:

    no classic dccds do not have an auto mode. It also worth noting that no mater of dial setting the torque split is always 66% rear, as the dial adjust speed match not torque split.

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