euan_r

theres been probs with klc39 has there not?

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/683...drop-links.html

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z321_KLC30.pdf

check again

personally i would have fitted standard ones again. ball joint is better but wares out quicker, however genuine ones are only like 30 pound or something for a pair. subaru didnt fit ball joints just for the hell of it.

there are no gains to be made by changing any droplinks only the rear u shaped ones that are made from plastic or something.

is the big washer on the right side? check instructions again

no need to slacken arb tommo.

i did both sides at the same time with cement block under each wheel.

probably arb bushes slightly worn. i know my parents fozzy were after having knocking droplinks

bargain! looks a lot cleaner

very common mines got it but is ten years old, wouldnt be impressed on such a new car.

no classic silver saloon.

sounds like it is something with first fan then. you could unbolt fan shroud and see if anything falls out. these seem the first to go rusty on classics but you should be ok with newer car.

sure its not from the fan as it could be fan bearing. was that you outside the banbary premier inn that was having an inspection of it?

if it wasnt only when fan kicks in i would have said cambelt idler or tension pulley. definite no no to fix if you dont know what your doing.

i would try spraying some wd40 into fan first myself then if that cured it follow up with spray of white grease.

other idea would be to see if noise only appears when air con is active as second fan only runs when this is on. (well on my classic anyway)

nice work by imy dropping you in it gus

massive thanks to imy,grant, andy and all mashals/ prodrive employees. weekend that shall never be forgotten, simply stunning the turn out on just about every flyover on the way down. cheers.

i replaced my parents ones with genuine ones but the arb bushes were a bit worn too and also needed doing.

im fine min, just preparing car for weekend in fact id better off and make a start with the cleaning.

no need to replace arb unless you want to.

are you getting a knock tommo?

think your front ones will be ball jointed with it being sti with alloy arms, so no benefit in replacing them unless worn i believe.

perrin, whiteline, powerflex, subaru, noltec all do them.

theres gt tyres in huntly as well, they have their own setup. havent used them my self but asked about it when i was in enquiring about tyres.

theres bridgeend garage in macduff that has proper gear too. i have used them in the past and lad was fine, was underneath the car myself on gas duties.

stunning as always, nice to see that crappy steering wheel replaced.

will feed for goats be supplied there or do we need to take our own?

no reply from the pm i sent mrbadger. take it my pals wagon is to far away to consider?

seen worse

though side view was ok bar gap between wing and front door.

nice one , surprisingly a job i havent had to do yet.

have heard of them before but never seen pics.

yuk

a plan beat KM quotes every year for me. bonus this year when they lost original quote and so knocked a bit more off when i phoned to go ahead with quote.

good show lads, all the car were looking highly polished.

best looking cars at show were on sidc stand IMHO

all the best with new motor tommo, someones going to get a very clean classic

mind to disconnect clutch fork to seperate box from engine. after removing starter there is plug to remove with hex key. behind this there is fork pivot pin, remove a cam belt cover bolt and screw this into the pin and then pull out.

surprised they arent comming out with a hammer, i take it your using a roll punch between hammer and the pins or something similar.

since they are the four pot fronts i would try splitting the caliper and see if that makes it easier to get them out, perhaps the pins are bent somehow. look out for the two little o rings if you do decide to split the caliper.

i wouldnt recommend pushing back pistons with a screwdriver, one slip and you will cut the dust seal. i use a tool like this

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Disc-Brake-Pi...ol-Sealey-AK711

you will need a brake bleeding tube as well as its not recommended forcing bake fluid back through the abs system. far better to loosen nipple then push pistons back. also gives you the chance to renew fluid which is hyproscopic.

regards pins not comming out im unsure of that type of caliper but there may be little pins holding the bigger pins in iyswim