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You can use pretty much any lubricant but not a degreaser etc like wd40, as playsatan says he used his vaseline I have used just a little engine oil or 3 in 1 oil its just to make sure the seals slip on easily and dont roll or get knicked on the way into the fuel rails. And no i dont mean some super fast thief comes along and nicks your seals while your not looking although in this case that would explain the problem

Check the oil on the dipstick first to see if it smells of oil but from the symptoms you describe i would put money on it smelling of fuel. Did you lube the injector seals before fitting them to ensure they slid on and into place without rolling or being nicked? Think you need to pull the injectors and thourghly check the seals.

Stop using the car until you have isolated the fuel leak I would start with the injector seals as I think from previous posts you have been in at them, you run the risk of washing the bores if it is fuel that is in the exhaust. Pull out the dipstick and check to see if the oil smells of fuel. If it does you need to sort the fuel issue sharpish and then change the oil and filter.

I used Alloy finsihing at the address Kenny has given but that was to straighten two badly buckled wheels, they done a superb job of that but cant comment on there wheel coating but would think the attention to detail they had when fixing the two rota's that they would do a good job. I have also had a fair amount of parts, not wheels, powder coated at Chameleon and the job has always been very good. To be hosest i think it depends where you stay and how much you want to pay/travel.

Graeme will be interested to see how you get on with the cosworth belt guide, I had one and could not get it to fit it rubbed on the belt no matter how much i tried to adjust it i used feeler blades for hours trying to get it to fit. In the end i sent it back so would suggest you check the clearance carefully when you fit it

Neil I may be about to offload my front Perrin 22mm adjustable bar and rear 22mm adjustable whiteline bar. Will know in the next two weeks. They awere both brand new and have only done track miles which are virtually none will drop you a PM after this weekend.

"Archie, I appreciate your advice re mapping... I must admit I'm a little sceptical though. From all that I can gather, these ECUs have some degree of adaptability to minor changes in the system. And with no disrespect to Andy Forrest, being in the mapping business he's career-bound to recommend remapping whenever credible. Having said that, I would seriously consider seeking his services should I make any more significant changes (such as replacing the more restrictive downpipe cat)." If I had a Syvecs ECU i would be happy that it would protect my engine for increased airflow through the engine with no changes to the fueling or ignition timing, standard ECU's well thats another story, but hey maybe thats just me

Neil if your still running a TY752 box it will be on borrowed time with a 20G, a newage TY754VN4AA has more chance of holding up thats what I used last year with a 20G on the white car and I was def not sympathetic and that box had been thrashed the year before with a 16G and its still in good nick. The later hawkeye WRX boxes are stronger again but would require a change of front shafts and rear diff. There are also two flavours of Hawkeye WRX box some with pull clutches and some with push clutches, arent Subaru brilliant

If your going to do it, do it all in one go and have it mapped as soon as possible after the swap. I personally woouldnt remove a cat and then not have the car mapped.

Swap the injectors

Not all intercoolers are the same although on the outside they may appear the same. The internal construction will determine how they flow, if they are restrictive they will have detrimental effects on the performance of your car- so as is the case with everything in life you get what you pay for. I have found the HDI hybrid kits very good. I think harvey and possibly Bob were doing deals on these kits. Depending on what power you are intending to run then a more cost effective and easier mod would be an upgrade to the larger STI top mount with the scoop and undertray or a modified WRX undertray. Given your car is a WRX I doubt you would want to mod it beyond the levels that the STI top mount intercooler is effective to.

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/private-for-sale-...ge-hawkeye.html

Neil I think you should have a TD05 16G

No massivbe advantage really other than higher flowing catted downpipes are easier to come by cheaply. There is a lambda sensor in the rear cat, the prodrive cat delete pipe come fitted with a boss to refit the sensor. Should have added that the standard cats are much more restrictive than say a prodrive sports cat downpipe or certainly a 100 cel cat.

From memory your car will have two cats one in the downpipe and one between the downpipe and centre section. If you remove a cat you really should be off through to Andy to have it remapped so best to do everything in one hit and then get it mapped. A 100 cel sports cat downpipe while a good idea is not a total necessity, but will flow better than a standard cat. If your budget is tight take the car down to Meercat and get them to remove the cat between the downpipe and the centre section and replace it with a link pipe, easily and cheaply done. I am not sure if the Hawkeye is any different from the earlier Blobeye STI in terms of fitment but the Prodrive sports cat dwonpipe can be a cheap way of removing the restrictive standard cat downpipe. I have a prodrive sports cat downpipe on my blobeye WRx, its the only cat fitted and passes the MOT with no issues. So really it comes down to budget. Couple of pics below showing what comes with the STI PPP and a pic of the WRX intake and exhaust system, the only real difference on the STI is it does not have a cat in the uppipe. A good cheap upgrade is a 2nd hand Prodrive cat downpipe, the prodrive 3rd cat delete pipe which is basically a straight pipe that removes the cat between the downpipe and the centre exhaust section, a straight through pipe to remove the centre resonator box and a prodrive back box. It will remove a lot of restriction, give a nice exhaust note without being stupidly loud and best of all the parts are all available pretty cheap second hand. Throw in a et of -7 temp rated NGK plugs and a panel filter and Then get Andy to remap it. Hope this helps.

Jac look at the pics I put up on page 1. Its prob all to do with the redesign of the inlet manifold to allow the intake pipe to run under the manifold to suit a front entry turbo. The way the legs were shaped doesnt lend itself to having a 4th hole. They could have made the flange extend to the fourth bolt position but that would have prob cost an extra 32p

Thought you didnt have an idle problem now only a starting issue

Anyone know the rough cost through Paisley freight to courier a 5 speed box, do they provide the pallett

Ian you are correct the phase 1.5 manifold has 3 bolt holes but the ICV itself has 4 bolt holes of which the bottom left is not used on the phase 1.5 manifold. The phase 1 and 1.5 ICV's are interchangeable the only difference is the angle of the pipe.

Dont you just love Subaru, different versions, different pahses and parts differences between them all - nice

Ian thats the confusion, phase 1 and 1.5 manifolds have 4 bolt ICV's they changed on the phase 2 cars. But that said if there isnt a hole to screw in a 4th bolt then it must be correct

What years you car

There should be 4 bolts holding the ICV to the inlet manifold. If you can get a meter across the battery see what the voltage drops to when starting, if it dips below 10v your battery is gubbed then at least you can rule that out.

One of those things in you inbox neil

If nothing is seized it should take just over an hour ish. but if you get John talking prob 4 hours