jacqui_robb Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 PLEASE, PLEASE, SOMEBODY, ANYBODY - HELP! I have a set of locking wheel nuts on Mr Scooby. They came with the car when i bought it 2 years ago, and they're aftermarket wheels. Problem being, now my new brake discs have arrived, the wheels need to come off this weekend in order to fit said new shiny brake discs - and the locking wheel nut broke!!!! I've tried all my local places, and nobody has these locking wheel nuts. I can order a new one, but that entails sending off broken key, and a new one been made, then sent out - no use, would take FAR too long. Tried a precision engineering place and he said for the cost involved he wouldnt make a copy one. Bought a "Locking Wheel Nut Remover" thats supposed to break them off, and was told would work, but needed an air gun to operate. So, got a local tyre firm who said they would do it no probs, so took Mr Scooby and said gadget down to them - and it wont work on my locking wheel nuts! Tearing my hair out! Wheels have to come off this weekend. Anybody have any suggestions? I dont care how u know, or wot "tools" u may have, or how u acquired the knowledge! Just need to get the damn things off - without damaging my wheels. And btw, i wasnt the dafty who broke the key! Cheers, Jacqui
dipsy Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 How about using a pair of vice grips if you have the room grip the nut as tight as possible then use adjustable on the vice grip and try and unsrew just my idea
Gee Wr1 Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 << And btw, i wasnt the dafty who broke the key! >> Wasn't me either, before anyone thinks it was
Gumball Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 take the car to kwik-fit and get them to hammer a socket onto them and take them off with the gun. hammer the socket onto it and do it yourself, though it may be difficult. bring the car to glasgow and leave it outside a bookies overnight.
Guest Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 happened to me recently.only it was the locking nut itself which was damaged. managed to get it off by hammering on a socket as tight as possible,but it worked. then you can put the socket in a vice and knock out the nut. make sure to put something around nut as you dont want to hit your alloys
dipsy Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 If going to hammer scocket on use impact ones are stronger and single hex
Gee Wr1 Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 << take the car to kwik-fit and get them to hammer a socket onto them and take them off with the gun. hammer the socket onto it and do it yourself, though it may be difficult. >> This has been tried & 6 Snap on socket heads stripped << bring the car to glasgow and leave it outside a bookies overnight. >> Could be worth a try if we can't get them of
ScoobyAndy Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 << This has been tried & 6 Snap on socket heads stripped >> Bl**dy hell Set of oxyacetelen bottles? drill and alot of patience??
colin_ross Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 Depends on what type of lockers you've got. Halfords sell removers but not sure if they work on the type that have the spinning collars on them. As said above hammer an old socket over it an undo it that way. If you don't mind throwing the old socket out afterwards I've heard of people heating one up with a blow torch to make it expand slightly, whacking it on (mind you don't burn your fingers) and letting it cool. When it cools down it'll be rock solid and a doddle to take off. A piccie of the bolt might help if all that fails.
craigdmcd Posted September 16, 2005 Posted September 16, 2005 Could really do with knowing what style of lockers they are, and how far away are you. I've been a bit of a deft hand at getting lockers off in the past (legitimately in my work of course), and would be pleased to help if I can.
jacqui_robb Posted September 17, 2005 Author Posted September 17, 2005 Cheers guys for all the advice so far. After just reading Craigs post, i nipped out to the garage, but it's not very good light, and these were taken on my phone, so i apologise for the poor quality, but these were the best i could do in the dark!...
terminator Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 The boys r right,put a socket over the nut that is a couple of mm smaller,Hammer it over the nut, add the wrench and pray.The gator that is an american multi socket works,the majority of time on mcguards.Let us all know how you get on and i forgot add wd40 for a few secs beforehand.
craigdmcd Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 That's better pictures this time. 2 real options with these (and I'm usually with the boys on this one about the hammering of a high quality socket - but not this time!). Option 1 - get some very high quality drill bits, cutting oil to cool them down, and begin the long slow labourious task of drilling them out, starting with the ever popular 3mm, then in 1-2 mm increments all the way up to approximately 12mm, but being careful with the larger sizes not to damage the threads too much on the hub. It does work, and is best to use a slow drill speed, but impatience can cause horrible damage. Incidentally, take all the other wheel bolts out so that you can yank the wheel a little when the bolt is drilled out quite a lot. Option 2, find the largest nut that will fit inside the wheel WITH A GOOD QUALITY SOCKET ON IT, then proceed to get the nut welded centrally on to the locking wheel bolt (high quality mig welding is preferable, and not something that looks like it has just come from the ass of a it rabbit!). Then when the weld has cooled, use a large breaker bar to carefully remove the offending item. This method sometimes takes several attempts to get it right. The hammering on of sockets will not work in this case I fear. Last point - once removed, hopefully with minimal damage (always inevitable), go and buy a set of SUBARU ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT LOCKING WHEEL BOLTS AND GET A SPARE LOCKER ORDERED. ALWAYS GREASE THE WHEEL BOLTS AND HUBS BEFORE REFITTING THE WHEELS!!!! I'm off to bed now as I've got a 10hour shift tomorrow. PS, just reread my post, option one doesn't work as well on scoobies (you'd probably need a new stud), so better try option 2 first.
Bing Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 Agree with Craig, I opted for option 1 after using a v small disc cutter to shape my bolt into the shape of a standard socket...but all i succeded in doing was to was to round off the bolt and make a mess of the stud. So I used a hammer and chisel and knocked away for about 45 mins until the bolt gave way. I required another stud however after impatient disc cutting! Good luck and have plenty of PATIENCE
Gumball Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 im being serious here. in the morning find a hooligan ass and ask him to get them off for you. these guys will manage this without a shadow of a doubt they know all the tricks when it comes to getting alloy wheels off.
fai17 Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 << im being serious here. in the morning find a hooligan ass and ask him to get them off for you. these guys will manage this without a shadow of a doubt they know all the tricks when it comes to getting alloy wheels off. >> Thats the best option yet or get a new STI 10
dipsy Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 Get the locking nut to welders shop and get them to build up the 2 broken bits with weld and that should work if its welded neatly worth a try and what Craig said about mig welder use stick you have small rod to work with the shroud of the mig torch is to wide so won't get in close enough
craigdmcd Posted September 17, 2005 Posted September 17, 2005 Well, what's the Balamory, did you get them off ?
terminator Posted September 18, 2005 Posted September 18, 2005 A thought,would moulding metal putty between the locker and the nut help? mould the putty,put it on the locking key as there is still some keys left,tap it firmly on to the bolt on the wheel,wait overnight to set hard ,and pray.its worth a try and may be less hassle.
higgy Posted September 18, 2005 Posted September 18, 2005 Finde a socket the same size as the inside edge of the locking wheel nut and grinde the socket to look like the original key (that is now foooooked). Inotherwords , take the socket and turn it into a castle type configuration. Done this on bikes loads of times so if you want a hand send me a P M Higgy
dipsy Posted September 18, 2005 Posted September 18, 2005 That a good idea Higgy why did i not think of that
duke Posted September 18, 2005 Posted September 18, 2005 i have the same style of locking wheel nuts on for my "spare" alloys - dunno if its the same spacing between nodules though, i can measure and take a photo tomorrow if u like and if the same u can pop through and use it. otherwise what about using "easy-outs" (or whatever they are called) - they wee screw things that u drill/tap that are ant-clock wise and are used to remove rounded or worn nuts/screws - machine mart and B&Q sell them.
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