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HELP! How do i get locking wheel nuts off - with no key?!


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PLEASE, PLEASE, SOMEBODY, ANYBODY - HELP!

I have a set of locking wheel nuts on Mr Scooby. They came with the car when i bought it 2 years ago, and they're aftermarket wheels.

Problem being, now my new brake discs have arrived, the wheels need to come off this weekend in order to fit said new shiny brake discs - and the locking wheel nut broke!!!! face-icon-small-shocked.gif

I've tried all my local places, and nobody has these locking wheel nuts. I can order a new one, but that entails sending off broken key, and a new one been made, then sent out - no use, would take FAR too long.

Tried a precision engineering place and he said for the cost involved he wouldnt make a copy one.

Bought a "Locking Wheel Nut Remover" thats supposed to break them off, and was told would work, but needed an air gun to operate. So, got a local tyre firm who said they would do it no probs, so took Mr Scooby and said gadget down to them - and it wont work on my locking wheel nuts!

Tearing my hair out! Wheels have to come off this weekend.

Anybody have any suggestions? I dont care how u know, or wot "tools" u may have, or how u acquired the knowledge! Just need to get the damn things off - without damaging my wheels.

And btw, i wasnt the dafty who broke the key!

Cheers,

Jacqui

face-icon-small-smile.gif

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happened to me recently.only it was the locking nut itself which was damaged.

managed to get it off by hammering on a socket as tight as possible,but it worked.

then you can put the socket in a vice and knock out the nut.

make sure to put something around nut as you dont want to hit your alloys

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<< take the car to kwik-fit and get them to hammer a socket onto them and take them off with the gun.

hammer the socket onto it and do it yourself, though it may be difficult. >>

This has been tried & 6 Snap on socket heads strippedface-icon-small-shocked.gif

<< bring the car to glasgow and leave it outside a bookies overnight. >>

face-icon-small-happy.gif Could be worth a try if we can't get them of face-icon-small-happy.gif

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Depends on what type of lockers you've got.

Halfords sell removers but not sure if they work on the type that have the spinning collars on them.

As said above hammer an old socket over it an undo it that way. If you don't mind throwing the old socket out afterwards I've heard of people heating one up with a blow torch to make it expand slightly, whacking it on (mind you don't burn your fingers) and letting it cool. When it cools down it'll be rock solid and a doddle to take off.

A piccie of the bolt might help if all that fails.

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That's better pictures this time. 2 real options with these (and I'm usually with the boys on this one about the hammering of a high quality socket - but not this time!). Option 1 - get some very high quality drill bits, cutting oil to cool them down, and begin the long slow labourious task of drilling them out, starting with the ever popular 3mm, then in 1-2 mm increments all the way up to approximately 12mm, but being careful with the larger sizes not to damage the threads too much on the hub. It does work, and is best to use a slow drill speed, but impatience can cause horrible damage. Incidentally, take all the other wheel bolts out so that you can yank the wheel a little when the bolt is drilled out quite a lot.

Option 2, find the largest nut that will fit inside the wheel WITH A GOOD QUALITY SOCKET ON IT, then proceed to get the nut welded centrally on to the locking wheel bolt (high quality mig welding is preferable, and not something that looks like it has just come from the ass of a it rabbit!). Then when the weld has cooled, use a large breaker bar to carefully remove the offending item. This method sometimes takes several attempts to get it right.

The hammering on of sockets will not work in this case I fear.

Last point - once removed, hopefully with minimal damage (always inevitable), go and buy a set of SUBARU ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT LOCKING WHEEL BOLTS AND GET A SPARE LOCKER ORDERED. ALWAYS GREASE THE WHEEL BOLTS AND HUBS BEFORE REFITTING THE WHEELS!!!! I'm off to bed now as I've got a 10hour shift tomorrow.

PS, just reread my post, option one doesn't work as well on scoobies (you'd probably need a new stud), so better try option 2 first.

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Agree with Craig,

I opted for option 1 after using a v small disc cutter to shape my bolt into the shape of a standard socket...but all i succeded in doing was to was to round off the bolt and make a mess of the stud. So I used a hammer and chisel and knocked away for about 45 mins until the bolt gave way. I required another stud however after impatient disc cutting!

Good luck and have plenty of PATIENCEface-icon-small-wink.gif

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<< im being serious here. in the morning find a hooligan ass and ask him to get them off for you. these guys will manage this without a shadow of a doubt

they know all the tricks when it comes to getting alloy wheels off. >>

Thats the best option yet or get a new STI 10

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Get the locking nut to welders shop and get them to build up the 2 broken bits with weld and that should work if its welded neatly worth a try and what Craig said about mig welder use stick you have small rod to work with the shroud of the mig torch is to wide so won't get in close enough

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Finde a socket the same size as the inside edge of the locking wheel nut and grinde the socket to look like the original key (that is now foooooked). Inotherwords , take the socket and turn it into a castle type configuration. Done this on bikes loads of times so if you want a hand send me a P M

Higgy

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i have the same style of locking wheel nuts on for my "spare" alloys - dunno if its the same spacing between nodules though, i can measure and take a photo tomorrow if u like and if the same u can pop through and use it.

otherwise what about using "easy-outs" (or whatever they are called) - they wee screw things that u drill/tap that are ant-clock wise and are used to remove rounded or worn nuts/screws - machine mart and B&Q sell them.

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