Show Us Your Geo's

[highlandflyer]

I have decided to get the blob onto the 4 wheel geo set up machine thingy at Bitz in Nairn to maximise what we've got or not as the case may be.

Other than a whiteline rear arb and droplinks with -1 degree front camber we're running standard suspension (2005 WRX) and settings. Have been toying with various options including

lower springs, sorry to mess Phil and Dave around but decided against this due to:

1. after much phoning around Andy at RA Motorsport and a decent andy in Subaru parts Perth advised me prodrive springs off a GB270 Hawkeye

should fit my blob though rates are unknown and they do eat shocks.

2. seems to be a strong opinion that Impreza's dont like being lowered and easy to mess handling up (this is only an opinion all you guys on coilovers etc)

So... having decided to forego the lower springs I'm now looking at ALK, possible camber bolts and free caster mods and wondering what everyone else is running as far as geo set up goes?

Probably going to try following setting to start unless this tread kicks up other ideas. I may well get a shock to find what current settings are!

FRONT

camber -1.5 to -1.75

caster max available

toe probably slight in though not yet decided

REAR

camber -1.0 if I can get this on standard kit

toe zero

could be very interesting/informative to see what everyone is running at assuming you are prepared to share (no trade secrets)

all constructive comments/advise most welcome.

PS what did you go for Al?

[davey l wrx]

The litchfield is currently set up at

front camber -1.08

front castor 5.51

front toe 0.04

Rear camber -1.14

rear toe 0.03

It has got full whiteline anti-lift kit, adjustable anti-roll bars and adjustable top mounts. Mine was all fitted and set up at Clark Motorsport but i think they use the same kit as Davey at Bitz.

You can lower them they just need set up after and it can cause issues with the standard sruts wearing out quicker than they normally do giving the glorious knock. I've got a set of Tein lowering springs in the garage but i'm really not sure about fitting them, the car is stiff enough for me at the moment not sure i want it any lower or more bone rattling

Edited May 15, 2012 by davey l wrx

[highlandflyer]

The litchfield is currently set up at

front camber -1.08

front castor 5.51

front toe 0.04

Rear camber -1.14

rear toe 0.03

It has got full whiteline anti-lift kit, adjustable anti-roll bars and adjustable top mounts. Mine was all fitted and set up at Clark Motorsport but i think they use the same kit as Davey at Bitz.

You can lower them they just need set up after and it can cause issues with the standard sruts wearing out quicker than they normally do giving the glorious knock. I've got a set of Tein lowering springs in the garage but i'm really not sure about fitting them, the car is stiff enough for me at the moment not sure i want it any lower or more bone rattling

presume all toe is in?

your caster figure seems v good as I believe the more the better, do you have anything other than alk that effects caster.

how does the Litchfield drive in comparison to pre geo set up?

[scouk]

FRONT

camber (L) -1.33 ® -1.27

caster (L) 3.18 ® -3.54

toe 0.00

REAR

camber (L) -1.42 ® -1.24

toe -0.03

Note the values above are in degrees an minutes.. So 1.59 + 0.01 is effectively 2.00.. So somethign like 1.01 and 0.56 are infact very close.

It's actually been straighted up a bit since then but values much the same.

Edited May 15, 2012 by ScoUK

[davey l wrx]

It's alot better in the corners and feels alot more balanced than it did before. Don't get me wrong it wasn't bad in the first place i just wanted it better set up for the fling and for future use.

[g1983]

Looks like i need to get reading on this subject. lol :-$

[scouk]

Just to add.. With the camber set that high on mine I'll be monitoring the inside tyre wear carefully! Technically with the increase in caster you don't need as much camber as the caster allows hte wheels to lean in while cornering therefore givign you free camber for cornering

[highlandflyer]

Just to add.. With the camber set that high on mine I'll be monitoring the inside tyre wear carefully! Technically with the increase in caster you don't need as much camber as the caster allows hte wheels to lean in while cornering therefore givign you free camber for cornering

running -1 degree camber on front has made no difference to inside tyre wear on mine but don't do many miles of straight running.

what is general std caster figure and have you done free caster mod ie turned pin 180 degrees which they reckon is worth 0.5 degrees of caster?

have read that Imprezas don't really perform in the bends until you go over 1.5 camber. presume this is best explored on track otherwise the idea scares me.

[scooby222]

well if you want to get on track safely can i direct you to the sidc national day at alford Myles

should get my hands on my settings when im home at the weekend but dont know how much use as mine is lowered considerably lol but handles exactly how i want it - actually talked myself out of whiteline arb's as with the coilovers its as stiff as i really want a road car for my style of driving

do know that my tyre wear is perfectly even across the tread though and doesnt eat tyres at all - can get about 12k miles from fronts and 18-20k from rears (and yes i know i should change all four together but i have to cut costs somewhere! )

[scouk]

do know that my tyre wear is perfectly even across the tread though and doesnt eat tyres at all - can get about 12k miles from fronts and 18-20k from rears (and yes i know i should change all four together but i have to cut costs somewhere! )

I generally rotate mine F+R half war thorugh (did it recently) just to make sure they wear properly.

On the camber thing the -1.5 is probably right for standard setup but it is quite a bit of camber. With other suspension upgrades this is less important as the shift in balance affects how the car fixes itself to the road rather than relying on the front end so much

[highlandflyer]

well if you want to get on track safely can i direct you to the sidc national day at alford Myles

should get my hands on my settings when im home at the weekend but dont know how much use as mine is lowered considerably lol but handles exactly how i want it - actually talked myself out of whiteline arb's as with the coilovers its as stiff as i really want a road car for my style of driving

do know that my tyre wear is perfectly even across the tread though and doesnt eat tyres at all - can get about 12k miles from fronts and 18-20k from rears (and yes i know i should change all four together but i have to cut costs somewhere! )

Abroad for Alford unfortunately but have had a few dozen laps of Knockhill which was good, even on my tame set up.

This seems to be what general opinion is for settings:

camber f+r -1.5

toe 3' front toe in

8' rear toe in

caster = as much as possible as this gives dynamic front camber when wheels turned (didn't realise this till recently but if you imagine your front wheels on a stick for steering, if stick (strut) is vertical when you turn the wheel just pivots flat to turn. Now imagine the steering stick (read strut) angled backwards (caster angle) when you turn stick wheel also leans with dynamic camber. ie as Al says the more caster you have the more dynamic camber this gives you when you turn which is v good and reduces the amount of static camber needed at geo set up and reduces tyre wear issues a bit.

Forgeting stick etc I'm not trying to teach anyone how to suck eggs but thanks to Al, Glyn and various scources have found understanding the basics of this principle enlightening and am sure I'm not the only one to be unaware of this fact.

Thought we might have got more set up figures from members though. Come on guys and gals it's not a trade secret and good to share, all for the common good and enjoyment/learn from others knowledge and mistakes.

[highlandflyer]

Abroad for Alford unfortunately but have had a few dozen laps of Knockhill which was good, even on my tame set up.

This seems to be what general opinion is for settings:

camber f+r -1.5

toe 3' front toe in

8' rear toe in

caster = as much as possible as this gives dynamic front camber when wheels turned (didn't realise this till recently but if you imagine your front wheels on a stick for steering, if stick (strut) is vertical when you turn the wheel just pivots flat to turn. Now imagine the steering stick (read strut) angled backwards (caster angle) when you turn stick wheel also leans with dynamic camber. ie as Al says the more caster you have the more dynamic camber this gives you when you turn which is v good and reduces the amount of static camber needed at geo set up and reduces tyre wear issues a bit.

Forgeting stick etc I'm not trying to teach anyone how to suck eggs but thanks to Al, Glyn and various scources have found understanding the basics of this principle enlightening and am sure I'm not the only one to be unaware of this fact.

Thought we might have got more set up figures from members though. Come on guys and gals it's not a trade secret and good to share, all for the common good and enjoyment/learn from others knowledge and mistakes.

Forgot to mention another factor is that braking, accelerating and cornering all change suspension dynamics and therefore settings. So this is why many add rear toe in as when you corner the outside rear wheel is loaded and produces + toe twisting it out and therefore balancing toe in on set up. Suppose suspension geometry is all about compromise and depends on driving style and road type etc

as a note to the above I see whiteline settings include rear toe outside to help initiate turn in and loosen back end which obviously has its pros and cons, especially on road!!

[j wrx tonkins]

question for the suspension folk is it worth me getting some rear camber adjusters and have mine reset up? im running the blue prodrive springs but im not sure if it feels right lol

[highlandflyer]

would think you need to get it on a 4 wheel geo set up. Have you had it set up at all or at least since springs fitted?

what is tyre wear like?

[j wrx tonkins]

would think you need to get it on a 4 wheel geo set up. Have you had it set up at all or at least since springs fitted?

what is tyre wear like?

hey i had alignment done after fitting but had a few problems so they kept getting taken off and put back on which probably has done it no favers im just wondering weather it would make a difference getting some rear camber bolts and getting it set up again making sure every thing is ok and my tyres are still good i have falcons all round

[spect]

I hate my Falkens. When I can afford it I am off up to Powerstation for a suspension overhaul and set up to stage 3 standard

[j wrx tonkins]

I hate my Falkens. When I can afford it I am off up to Powerstation for a suspension overhaul and set up to stage 3 standard

Yeah i must admit falkens seem to tramline quite bad, wont be getting them again thats for sure.

[davey l wrx]

I've not had any tram lining issues on mine and i've got Falkens on it. The blob used to do it a bit, thats got 18'' on and the new one has 17'' fitted both of them have the same FK452's fitted. I spend more time weaving round pot holes than anything else though!

[highlandflyer]

hey i had alignment done after fitting but had a few problems so they kept getting taken off and put back on which probably has done it no favers im just wondering weather it would make a difference getting some rear camber bolts and getting it set up again making sure every thing is ok and my tyres are still good i have falcons all round

I believe you usually get more rear camber when you fit lower springs, so should not need camber bolt though can be fitted to locked settings more than without, would speak to your geo mechanic/operator as if he/she is good they will have seen it all before and give you good advise.

also check for wear and play in bushes etc before shelling out on geo set up.

if your tyres are good and evenly worn set up may not be too far out.

[j wrx tonkins]

I believe you usually get more rear camber when you fit lower springs, so should not need camber bolt though can be fitted to locked settings more than without, would speak to your geo mechanic/operator as if he/she is good they will have seen it all before and give you good advise.

also check for wear and play in bushes etc before shelling out on geo set up.

if your tyres are good and evenly worn set up may not be too far out.

ok mate cheers for the advice i will go investigate see if i can sort it

[j wrx tonkins]

I've not had any tram lining issues on mine and i've got Falkens on it. The blob used to do it a bit, thats got 18'' on and the new one has 17'' fitted both of them have the same FK452's fitted. I spend more time weaving round pot holes than anything else though!

hmmm the fk452's maybe better than mine which are Falken Ziex ZE 912 all i know is there hard compound as ive had them on for about 2 years and the tread is still good lol they remind me of nankangs which went on for ever lol

[j wrx tonkins]

Also here is a picture of my geo set up does it look ok?

[corsa]

Mines is standard and still manages to go round bends with no fancy shmancy set ups :smiley-taunt014:

[badbaz]

Mines is standard and still manages to go round bends with no fancy shmancy set ups :smiley-taunt014:

Well, all except THAT one

[corsa]

THAT WAS COLD TYRES ;-0