Some Suspension Questions..

[monsterenergy]

Well, here I am away at work again - wondering what I can do to the Hatch this time I'm home. Spent most of last time off workin on the missus car so now it's time to treat mine a bit.

I'd toyed with the idea of trading in - even with the idea of a Cossie - but I dinna want to spend the cash on a car just now.

I've got my engine running 343bhp so without forging I don't want to take that higher.

So now I'm thinking suspension mods and have a few questions:

1. I fancy one of those front tower braces - as much for the look as anything else. Can I fit one of those by itself or will it throw the whole geometry setup out? Easy to fit?

2. Lowering springs - if I buy a spring compression tool, is it simply a case of wheel off, compress old spring off, compress new spring on, wheel on, bob's yer uncle?

3. Apart from the above 2 - is there a distinct order ye should do the upgrades in?

4. Are Whiteline the best?

5. Is it worth putting it into a performance shop to get it all done?

6. What's the difference between going for coilovers or upgraded dampeners and springs?

7. If I put it out to get work done, anyone in Aberdeen area recommended?

8. Are the Litchfield upgrades listed a good order to do things?

Fast Road Pack - £295 inc. vat

Uprated rear anti roll bar

Revised steering feel

4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings

Handling Pack - £695 inc. vat

Uprated rear anti roll bar

Revised steering feel

4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings

Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit

Litchfield Front Strut Brace

Labour to install

Handling Pack 2 - £2,437 inc. vat

Uprated rear anti roll bar

Revised steering feel

4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings

Bilstein Dampers with Eibach Springs

Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit

Litchfield Front Strut Brace

Labour to install

2011 Type-20 Chassis package - £2,765 inc. vat

Uprated rear anti roll bar

Revised steering feel

4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings

Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit

Litchfield Front Strut Brace

AST adjustable dampers with 2011 Type-20 internals

AST adjustable top mounts

Up-rated front anti roll bar

Labour to install

What's you guys opinion - and no hatch jokes! lol

Edited April 3, 2012 by monsterenergy

[davey l wrx]

1. I fancy one of those front tower braces - as much for the look as anything else. Can I fit one of those by itself or will it throw the whole geometry setup out? Easy to fit? - Yup easy job not sure about the geometry

2. Lowering springs - if I buy a spring compression tool, is it simply a case of wheel off, compress old spring off, compress new spring on, wheel on, bob's yer uncle? Yes that easy but the alignment would need done

3. Apart from the above 2 - is there a distinct order ye should do the upgrades in? - I'd say plan it right and pay less. Why do the suspension and strut brace then get an alignment check done to fit more kit and have it done again. Could be worth just getting the kit and waiting till you have it all and fitting it all together.

4. Are Whiteline the best? - It's what most guys seem to be going for

5. Is it worth putting it into a performance shop to get it all done? - i've been using Clark Motorsport in Kintore to get the upgrades done on mine - Whiteline front and rear anti-roll bars, anti-lift kit and adjustable top mounts. They are whiteline dealer and members on here get a discount on labour

6. What's the difference between going for coilovers or upgraded dampeners and springs? Usually more adjustment with coilovers

7. If I put it out to get work done, anyone in Aberdeen area recommended? Clark Motorsport

8. Are the Litchfield upgrades listed a good order to do things? - if it's got the Litchfield stamp on it it'll be good... but then i would say that. Hell Iain even made the hatch decent

[monsterenergy]

Thanks for answers Davey!

I'll give Clark Motorsport a call when I get hame.

I also see Brian Downie is a Cusco agent - and I prefer the look of the blue anodized Cusco strut brace better than the Whiteline one. I did say I was after it as much for the look as any handling benefit! lol

So might contact them when I'm back too.

I think I'm gonna stop short of changing dampeners or opting for coilovers at this time.

I think my plan is...

Uprated rear anti roll bar (Prob Whiteline)

Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit (Again Whiteline)

Front Strut Brace (Cusco or possibly Forge/Litchfield, reckon Whiteline doesn't look as rugged?)

Some lowering springs (Tein or Eibach - I think Pro-R use the Eibach ones)

Geomoetry / Alignment

Cusco:

Forge/litchfield:

Whiteline:

Edited April 4, 2012 by monsterenergy

[The Don]

Summit brace similar to the Forge..............

http://www.just-subaru.com/my08-summit-alloy-front-strut-brace-80992-0.html

Edited April 4, 2012 by don

[davey l wrx]

Not sure what my strut brace is, it was on the car when it arrived. Has to be said though the whiteline roll bars (front and rear), adjustable top mounts and ant-lift kit have transformed the handling.

As i've fitted the adjustable top mounts coilovers are out for me as they aren't compatable with them but i've got some Tein springs in the garage that might get fitted at some point. Eibach are good though always used them on my other cars.

[monsterenergy]

Just found the strut brace I funcy - did say it was aboot looks!

Red to match the inlet manifold... Perrin een...

Edited April 4, 2012 by monsterenergy

[davey l wrx]

Ooh thats nice.... Mine's the Std one fitted by subaru. The give away is the Fuji Heavy Industries sticker on it!

Like that perrin one though

[scouk]

I got an unbranded set from teh US few years back Basically same as standard options.. But colour coded the ends rather than have them pink so it doesn't look out of place!

as for the queries:

1. I fancy one of those front tower braces - as much for the look as anything else. Can I fit one of those by itself or will it throw the whole geometry setup out? Easy to fit?

- Geometry should be fine as your not actually moving anything. Just make sure the car is parked up on a stable surface and don't let it rock forward or back or move the steering wheel after you remove the strut nuts (sounds painful!)

2. Lowering springs - if I buy a spring compression tool, is it simply a case of wheel off, compress old spring off, compress new spring on, wheel on, bob's yer uncle?

- Worth an aligntment check. As car will sit lower, but having said that, so long as you mark the current setting on the camber bolts and set them back to the same point they were taken off, you can possibly get away without. Just make sure sure that both sides of the car have hte wheels pointing at the same angle. a crude way to check is measure the width distance between the top of the wheel and the arch. Not scientific but so long as there is some -ve camber and both sides are matching.. It'd do until you go the next step.

I got aligntment check after fitting prodrive springs then again when I put coilovers on. And both times there was no change required as I made sure things were set correctly. To the trained eye you can tell if the camber is notably out or not

3. Apart from the above 2 - is there a distinct order ye should do the upgrades in?

- Yeah if you can fit everthign at once then do so.. Depends on what all you decide to do. Once you have a plan or a target of how you want the car to respond it may be easier to advise.

But things like strut braces are fairly straight forward. Don't really do much on standard set-up but if other upgrades are done and stiffen everythign teh brace has more effect than just for show, keeps the chassis more rigid with the extra forces involved. If replacign ARB's worth doign drop-links at the same time. if doing a lower brace consider ALK as it's in the same area. Note ALK will move toe angle slightly so worth checking alignment if done)

4. Are Whiteline the best?

- As above. It's what most peopel go for. But there are alternatives. I have some perrin parts fitted on mine, there' also a couple other manufacturer. But if you shop aroudn Whiteline parts can be found at competitive prices. Also if buying a few expensive parts at once, worth asking for discount

5. Is it worth putting it into a performance shop to get it all done?

If you not comfortable doung the installations yourself then yes. Strut braces are fairly straight forward. ARB's stuff more so. ALK bit of a sod without getting right underneith the car. But if your looking to replace springs yourself then I'd imagine everythign except maybe ALK is within reach of yoru abilities

6. What's the difference between going for coilovers or upgraded dampeners and springs? Usually more adjustment with coilovers

Coilovers are generally a package designed to work better, more robust too. Also if just upgrading the springs on standard dampers the dampers will wear out quicker. I wen't down that route and started pricing up a decent set of dampers (Bilstein's at the time) and with the cost of those comapred to BC coilovers and they adjustability it was a no-brainer for me. No more faffing aroudn with spring tensioners everytimg a damper was stuffed!

7. If I put it out to get work done, anyone in Aberdeen area recommended?

As the man above said. Clark Motorsport, there's also BHP Developments and Wallace Performance.. Although Wallace seem to be more Evo stuff, but they know scoobs too.

8. Are the Litchfield upgrades listed a good order to do things?

Depends what you want from the car There's not really one thing or another that does everythign it's about a whole package of thigns coming together and working. But worth noting that springs/coilovers are probably the first major component. After that look at stiffening other parts with braces. If your not happy with teh understeer look at upgrading the rear ARB and upgrade F&R drop links while your at it. Not sure about the hatch but if they still have plastic rear drop links worth looking to replace those with metal or alloy ones. If want the car to have an improoved 'locked in' feeling roudn corners Anti-Lift Kit is your friend

Note: Adding strut braces, ARB's drop links should NOT require alignment set-up. Doing springs/coilovers might if your not paticular about gettign everythign back into the same place as it was. (Mostly camber affected here) Worth gettign a check if you've got to this step. Since all the parts were freed off for install making any required adjustment should be a doddle. Just remember when fitting braces and stuff to NOT let the car move when thigns are slacked off, and the supension will move aroudn and much up geometry. Also worth noting the first pothole you hit the geo will be knocked out anyway ever so slightly.

Edited April 4, 2012 by ScoUK

[davey l wrx]

bugger me i got something almost right

[monsterenergy]

Thanks for your answer too ScoUK!

I've ordered the Perrin front strut brace - so I have a wee toy to install just when I get hame. Got some instructions off of iwsti site - so looks strightforward enough. I'll need to pop the bonnet to fill my scooshers up at every available occasion to show it off, lol

I'm beginning to wonder about whether to go for dampeners/coilovers too while I'm at it.