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Right, after noticing how many threads go off topic quickly, I've decided to give this a go...

This thread is for you to have a chat with each other about whatever you want, however, it will be closely monitored, so nothing too naughty please... face-icon-small-wink.gif

If I notice a thread going off topic I will ask the people to move it onto this thread, this way hopefully threads won't go rambling on with pages of totally unrelated stuff face-icon-small-tongue.gif

So off you go - enjoy.. hopefully face-icon-small-confused.gif

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face-icon-small-sad.gifface-icon-small-sad.gifface-icon-small-sad.gif Well I would love to join you guys down there so we can show some of the boys in there pram like cars what a real car is capable of, but (and its a big but) I just went BANG.

face-icon-small-sad.gif Let me paint you the picture of how my night has been, went for a quick run to Maidstone to the bank, decided on the way back, as the M2 was pretty quiet I would have a bit of fun ( please forgive me for not publishing how quick I found the drive, you never know whos keeping score) when it felt like I had hit a rev limiter, so I slowed it down a bit, when I next went on the pedal I had a nice banging sound coming from under the bonnet.

I have just got home (thanks Scott from Winters recovery) Boo Hoo, sounds like possibly big ends, but it still starts, no oil loss, just a bit of a bang which seems to be coming from number 3.

So now I have the fun of getting it picked up again in the morning and taken to my mate at MRT to tell me the verdict, i'm expecting the worst......

Please all sympathy greatly appreciated.

Hope to get it sorted by Rolling Road day but not sure yet, will keep you posted.

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Q-dog, sorry to hear that face-icon-small-sad.gif - If you need some one to re-build it, let me know, I have contact details of a man who can for a reasonable price...

As for the M2, is it not always nearly empty face-icon-small-happy.gif I got a very good score on the M2face-icon-small-wink.gif and no I'm not telling you how fast... face-icon-small-tongue.gif

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face-icon-small-sad.gif Hi Pele,

I just received a call from my mate saying he thinks it could be the piston skirt, as it still starts, runs, and only knocks under load. Also the oil light goes out straight away when you start up.

Is there any chance you can let me know the details of the guy who may be able to help, also any ideas on cost?

It is number 3 that is causing the problem, am I right in saying this is common on the early classics?

All Advice greatly received

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Hello all,has any one got an idea why my car would hesitate when started cold,its as if you push the pedal down and a second or two later the car picks up and goes? It does this untill its warmed up and then only does it on the odd occasion.Help much appreciated.

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face-icon-small-sad.gif Hey guys having a brainstorm about my car, what do you think?

I just spoke to someone who is willing to give me £3000 for my car on a px for a 98 STi type R, which I was hoping to get at some stage anyway.

seeing as most people seem to have to keep rebuilding the engines on the early classics is it worth saying Bo**ox to it and spending the £10k to get the car of my dreams (well excluding a 22b but I aint that rich)

Also I may then still make the RR day.

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Q, firstly give the man whos been running your engine with the knock a slap, it is more serious than a piston skirt. The oil pressure light is connected to a sensor on one of the main oil galleries and is set at about 7psi, so it will go out very easily. You need a proper manual guage to do an oil pressure test. With a big end gone, you will still get oil pressure, but running it pumps all the rubbish that was your bearing, which is now in the sump, around your engine. Hence why it doesnt want to be run.

When big end bearings go, you usually find they wear and double up (slip on top of one another) on one side of the con rod, so it may seem like it goes, but thats when the two cream crackered halves of the bearing take up the gap. I found that my piston was actually hitting the head when the bearing remains were on the same side of the rod to the piston. You will need a full strip, and lost of parts, and as the engine has been run like this, probably a new crankshaft too. They are a very good engine, but the oil pumps fail on the earlier ones due to a machining oversight of the pressure relief shuttle valve. Like me, you are probably thinking, 'why didnt anyone tell me' thats because with an import, everyone talks about ecu maps and nothing else. Its NOT the map that has done it before anyone says either. A £200 oil pump is much less agro than doing the engine!

The oil pump needs to provide enough pressure to run at idle, say 3-4 bar. as you increase the revs, pump speed and therefore the pressure rises. If there wasnt a relief valve of some sort, at around 6000 rpm you would start cracking bits and start pouring your oil over the road. The valve opens at higher engine speeds to dump some of the oil back to the sump. If the valve sticks open, when the revs drop it wont close, therefore still dumping oil back to the sump. Oil delivery is reduced (not completely) and then you get the bearings breaking the oil film and starting to wear. They get hot, pick up and hey presto engine starts knocking.

It is worth rebuilding, if you really like the (your) car, you can either go two routes. Rebuild with original parts(obvious really...) or uprate everything while you are inside and make it bomb proof. You can got the 2.5 route, but in early cars, its probably not really worth it.

I think Pele has sent you my e mail addy, so if you want to talk about it, send me a message.

All the best, Si.

We never have problems, just 'opportunities'!!! face-icon-small-smile.gif

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face-icon-small-wink.gif Cheers Si I never thought it would be that bad, I just got the nod on borrowing £10k so I think Ill go for the new one, it seems I will always have probs with an early car?

If anyone thinks this could be the defeatist attitude let me know but at the minute im thinking its still only a £5k car

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<<

I just spoke to someone who is willing to give me £3000 for my car on a px for a 98 STi type R, which I was hoping to get at some stage anyway.

and spending the £10k to get the car of my dreams (well excluding a 22b but I aint that rich)

. >>

I assume that means he is valuing the Type R at £13k face-icon-small-shocked.gif , Thats a bit TOOOOO steep!.

I only value mine at £11k, and mine has nearly everything modified. (the steering wheel is the original STI)

There an engine for sale on ebay, API engines may do you a cheap short block and Rally Colin will rebuild/refit yours for about £2300, including a new pump and crank.

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Hi Q,

yes maybe right with an old car, but you will have 'opportunities' with new ones too, just different ones I guess.

Rebuilding with performance parts will probably set you back say £2500-2750 for all of the parts, nearer 2500 I would say as it may not need a clutch whilst your there. I think all in you would be looking at around £3200 'ish for a full rebuild using good parts. You can get short engines, but it would be a standard one if its cheaper than that, and if you are going to do it, do it in style, as they say!!

£3000 for yours with no engine is pretty good, but like hol says, the price of the other one (??!!) has probably been offset to account for this, unless they have an engine that just happens to be sitting on the floor which can go in. Whats yours worth done, standard?? £6500??ish (maybe worth rebuilding with std parts and selling on straight away) at least you would realise more money for yours, it would be cheaper than doing it with comp. stuff, and would be straightforward.

Comp parts are different, and fitting is more time consuming, so the overall repair costs could be alot less.

JMHO, All the best guys,

Si.

Remember, we dont have problems!!!

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j-k - It really is that good - I was dubious at first considering the price, we also got a clay bar - a crayon that Adam could use face-icon-small-wink.gif We will be seeing Paul (Fulham 71) tomorrow, he is a Swissol rep so I'll see if we can get a discount for more than one kit...

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