Jump to content

Heeeelllppppp!

Jon B

By Jon B
in Scottish Scoobies

Recommended Posts

Jon B

Jon B

Posted
Posted

Got a bit of a problem here...

went out other day an me uk turbo started first turn of key as always.....let here heat up till cooling fan came on then went off...

20 mins later she wouldn't start for love nor money...was trying to though....

left her 30 mins went out and she started first turn of key...left her to heat up...cooling fan came on then went off.....

then i went out this morning and she won't start same as last time she was trying too but wouldn't start......left her 1 hr and still won't start....

she's getting fuel and is trying to start but for what ever reason she just won't catch and keep running...any 1 any ideas???

all and any help will be much appreciated... :D

Link to comment
StewartyBoy

StewartyBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not having the best of times with the classic are you mate. Disconnect the MAF and see if the symptons are the same as your having with it plugged in. Apart from that were'nt you having running issues!? Did you resolve them?

Also the start solenoid might be giving you a bit of hassle. Can you hear it at all?!

Edited by StewartyBoy
Link to comment
Jon B

Jon B

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah stewartyboy i was havin issues when coming on boost.......

narrowed that down...if going through the gears and high revving all is fine then if just cruising in say 4th then put foot down she kangaroos...

thing i have noticed is that with new problem when i turn ignition on.. (dash lights) the cooling fan comes on straight away.... from cold...

if i put my foot on throttle slightly while cranking she tries even harder to start but won't.... i know feck all about scoobs hence reasom i'm asking....

anyone local with diagnostic cable i could borrow??.....

i can hear the fuel pump on initial activation and car turns over but she just won't start..... that and when she won't start i'm getting cloud of unburnt fuel out of tailpipe....

Edited by Jon B
Link to comment
StewartyBoy

StewartyBoy

Posted
Posted

Right ok mate. Starting fault I would say lies with the MAF. Overfuelling the car and not having an air mixture to start, dumping a load of crap out your exhaust. Like I said, disconnect the MAF and see if the car has any change on its starting fault. If the symptoms are the same with it unplugged then there lies the fault.

The Water Temp Thermostat is faulty, meaning that even when the water is cold its going to start.

Finally the boost issue sounds less of a boost issue and more of an ignition timing problem which says to me that one or more coils are causing an intermittent fault. Most will advise to replace all of the coils as when one fails, it can damage others. A multimeter will tell you which one, if any has gone.

A guide to checking coils

http://www.ehow.com/how_4912368_check-coil...tage-meter.html

Stewarty

Link to comment
Jon B

Jon B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah gus its been sitting for about a week....due to missus not being to keen on driving scoob in snow...lol.

thing i cant get my head around is fact it started perfectly 2 days ago....20 mins later wouldn't start no matter what then half hr after that started / ran and boosted perfectly....now its jus givin me headache lol

Link to comment
StewartyBoy

StewartyBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is a pain in the ass mate I'm sure. You seem to have a few electrical gremlins if I were honest. The MAF problem will be intermittent as will the coil as it may be damaged but not broken.

Crankshaft sensor failure is very possible, it will not read the correct position so will turn over without start. Although a fault would see a violent shutdown of the engine during driving. I wouldnt rule it out.

Edited by StewartyBoy
Link to comment
Jon B

Jon B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

tell me about it...... is there any way i can test the possible causes??? i blame the weather...its only since we ave had the ****ty weather that i ave had problems.... she's a decent enuff car for her age... beginning to think that i've bought someother feckers problem... ;)

would any possible problems show up on diagnostics????

if so has anyone got an obd2 cable for laptop that i could kindly borrow for a small fee?? :D

Link to comment
Big 'D'

Big 'D'

Posted
Posted

So your car starts and runs from cold ok but with the rad fan/s ON, then once warm it is hard to start?

If this is the case then its your engine temp sensor that is the main issue, the fans are set to run constant when the ECU cannot get a signal from the temp sensor, as the ECU does not know what temp the engine is it will basically perform the cold start sequence even when warm hence the warm starting issues, it will also cause running issues.

I would defo look at getting the temp sensor changed.

If you are getting a surging (on/off effect) or hesitation effect whilst building boost that sounds like you may have a dirty boost solenoid causing a bit of wastegate creep, but then as mentioned you could aslo have a spark issue so worth checking both out.

Cheers Iain

Link to comment
Jon B

Jon B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i've never had warm starting issues with her its just since this cold snap she's started to play up...

does anyone know how to test the crank sensor????

if the knock sensors gubbed would that stop my knocklink from working??? its been spliced into the original sensor for some reason but doesn't appear to be workin???

Link to comment
Big 'D'

Big 'D'

Posted
Posted
i've never had warm starting issues with her its just since this cold snap she's started to play up...

does anyone know how to test the crank sensor????

if the knock sensors gubbed would that stop my knocklink from working??? its been spliced into the original sensor for some reason but doesn't appear to be workin???

The only reason I mentioned it is because you said this in an earlier post.............

"Got a bit of a problem here...

went out other day an me uk turbo started first turn of key as always.....let here heat up till cooling fan came on then went off...

20 mins later she wouldn't start for love nor money...was trying to though...."

Seems like it was starting when cold but not when warm that was all.

Cheers Iain

Link to comment
Jon B

Jon B

Posted
  • Author
Posted

is there any way of bypassing the sensor temporarily to get the car running as i'll need to use it to go get the new sensor..... other thing is when i was out at it yesterday the fans weren't coming on when i was trying to start it but she still wouldn't start.........

would the sensor show up as ecu fault code???

Link to comment
Big 'D'

Big 'D'

Posted
Posted
is there any way of bypassing the sensor temporarily to get the car running as i'll need to use it to go get the new sensor..... other thing is when i was out at it yesterday the fans weren't coming on when i was trying to start it but she still wouldn't start.........

would the sensor show up as ecu fault code???

It would be very hard to bypass the sensor as it is variable, I think it uses a bi-metallic strip to measure temp change, the sensor would show as a fault code yes.

Cheers Iain

Link to comment
Big 'D'

Big 'D'

Posted
Posted
no probs :D

next question is where the sensors are located???

sorry if i've been a pest...i know feck all about scoobies as far as this kinda stuff goes.....wouldn't get rid of it though....would rather walk than not have a scoob... ;)

If you look under your intake manifold you should see a metal water pipe which should run from the rad top hose, in that pipe there should be a 2 wire sensor (mentioned earlier) this is the one that you need to look at.

Cheers Iain

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Go to topic listing


×
×
  • Create New...