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Next Round Of Modding Has Begun


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The other night I made a start to the mods on my car. I stripped off the roll bars, the struts and the wishbone bushes ready for the goodies to go on. First snag - adjustable front top mounts taken from the box only to find one badly corroded - Cusco kid is kindly sorting this out. That meant it wasn't going to be back together anytime soon so work abandoned.

Sod's law, for some reason my Piston Heads advert, despite being up for two weeks, suddenly creates a huge interest in the interior! Great, the car's stuck up on a two poster ramp with no suspension and the doors ain't opening for removal!

Last night I stuck the struts back on so I could lower it off the ramp and remove the various bits which appear to be sold. Out comes the front seats, rears were already out for rear strut removal, then the centre console/dash centre piece and the door cards. I can see lots of bits which are coming out since they are unnecessary now. How much weight will be saved in the end is debatable but for what the car is used for I'm happy enough to give it a go. No real issues removing any of the parts but the trim around the interior door handles is a total pig to get off! I'll post some pics of my progress as I go, none on PC as yet.

I'm resigned to this dragging out through the winter now. I want to make a job of it and as I can't decide on a suitable set up to mount my seats as yet it's gonna be some time. There's no rush and if a job's worth doing. . . .

The seats I've chosen are these WRC ones from OMP in this blue colour:

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I have a fitting solution in my mind but I'm waiting for the seats to arrive so I can be sure of what I plan. I've found them at a very good price but I need to wait three weeks for delivery from Italy. I couldn't order them until I sold my current seats. :icon_salut:

Been talking to various people about harnesses and they bring their own set of problems, I need to wait to see the seats in place and then I'll be able to mount the harnesses correctly.

I also need to get my hands on proper wiring diagrams for my year of STi. Can anyone advise on this?

When the interior is removed and the sound deadening is all off, the car will need painting. This and the welding for seats and harnesses will mean all inside and some underside work will be required. I've seen threads on painting inside cars but there is no one I know who could do a decent job and what with all the bumps and curves and bolts and holes if anyone can paint it without any flaws then I'll be sursprised, it's bound to run somewhere! I may paint it myself, though this would mean going for a flat colour. Don't know yet.

More to come . . .

Edited by badbaz
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  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't done much else to the car as plenty time to wait for the seats, not much fun driving it sitting on an upturned bucket like Oor Wullie!!

Inbox today contained an email from seat supplier saying I'll have them Thursday or Friday! Oops, slight miscalculation on my part - clearly not coming via our friendly postie!

Anyway, in the meantime I have sent my alloys to the powder coater, going for a dark gold - pics to follow.

I eventually went for Scoobyworlds anodised wheel nuts, blue, they are here and very light compared to the originals - this mod was for looks though and I think they'll go well with the gold - again pics to follow.

I also received some Perrin rear wing stiffis via a GB on Scoobynet, I've only got two as I joined the list too late but I'm first up for another two from the next batch to give me four in total - trying to get that WRC look!

I want a good looking roof scoop/vent whatever you call it - can anyone point me in the right direction?

Also have my replacement non-corroded top mounts now so no excuses now, time to get back to work. Well, tomorrow night maybe! :thumbup:

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Decided to get back to it tonight.

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Think it's been a little lonely over the past couple of weeks, tool box keeps it company :thumbup:

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Firstly I fitted the new Whiteline front springs and adjustable top mounts,

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got to say that I'm less than impressed with the finish on the mounts, the anodised part still has minor corrosion on the underside despite these being the replacements for the last set which had terrible corrosion on them. The problem is in their packaging, I think the two parts rub slightly and starts it off from there. They need to sort that. So got them all on and left slack for adjustment. The coil springs are the same unsprung length but have one more coil within their length.

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Can anyone explain how springs work in regards to this difference in number of coils???

Next I fitted the roll centre adjust kit:

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two track rod ends and two bottom ball joints. I'll be interested to see if this is really needed on my car which isn't lowered much, if any, and if the bump steer is eliminated. No dramas with this although was surprised to see the insert between the bottom bj and the alloy wishbone - not sure what it was made of - certainly made their removal very easy!

Next up was fitting the Whiteline steering rack bush kit.

steeringrack.jpg

This was simple with all the bits off already which block the access to the rack - big thanks to Whiteline for the bush removal tool they include - that made light work of a job which could have been more difficult. All on and finished off.

Last job for tonight was to fit the uprated front anti roll bar.

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Again a Whiteline part with links. Here is where I hit a snag. It's all on but to me something is not right. I'm gonna post in a new thread so this one doesn't turn into a question and answer session. I'll come back with my solution - if there is one. Bar just seems to close to links - we'll see.

That's enough for one night.

More soon.

Edited by badbaz
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Would you be better of with spherical bearing drop links for the anti-roll bar .They will sit at the right angle better than using alu drop links in the picture and looks a bit close to the track rod end or is that the way the picture has been taken

Edited by Dipsy
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With info from Whiteline and other forum members the drop links issue is in hand. I need different links, maybe even a different bar for the front - still ongoing.

On a better note, seats arrived today :D:lol::D

Still can't do anything about fitting them though as car is well and truly stuck on the ramp for the moment! They look great and are nice and light!!

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Got back into it again last night.

Mounted the front bar which is correct width now and part BSF33Z. This matched up fine with the links on the front. Had to rotate the top mounts as they have to be set for maximum castor. Also was able to refit the large u shaped brace under the car. This needs to be spaced(provided) to prevent fouling with the ALK. Front's all assembled now and ready for geometry.

At the rear I stripped my struts of their springs, but was surprised that operating the shocks by hand I could find no stickiness as I thought I may have, given my rears have the dreaded 'bump'. Left it at that for now to investigate further.

Received all my Perrin Wing Stiffis now too. Will move on to fitting them later. Gotta get the car down on it's wheels to make a start on the interior.

More soon and pics too!

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Rebuilt the rear struts and refitted them to the car - I haven't stripped them to re grease as I'm not convinced that's what is wrong.

Got my wheels back from the powder coaters, mounted the tyres and refitted them to the car and used my nice new blue nuts!

That was last Thursday I think.

Tonight I began stripping the interior, boot stuff, rear isofix and crash protection, rear belts, pillar trim and head lining. Now have all the doors and the dash area to concentrate on. That and the a/c, then I can get the seats mounted and get the car off for a geometry set up.

Couple of questions.

The alarm in the car, can it be removed? I don't want the ultrasonic sensors on the A pillars, intend removing central locking and wonder what effect that may have on the alarm.

Does anyone know what this is for? It's mounted in the o/s/r inner wing in the boot.

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Can the keypad for the immobiliser in the o/s of the dash be removed without affecting the cars immobiliser via the key?

Why is there a box in the wiring going to the heated rear window? Is it to stop interference with the integrated aerial? It's mounted under the rear parcel shelf.

Will defo get some pics on Wednesday night as it's a bit of a boring thread without them!

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More work - still no photos. The pictures wouldn't be that interesting as they would only show a very bare shell.

Got to work on the dash area. Removing it would be easy if it wasn't for the alarm and the tracker. The amount of cable ties holidng all that lot in slowed progress a great deal but the dash is now out, as is the complete alarm system and the tracker or trackstar?

I'll need to get the heater out now and remove the a/c parts, the sound deadening from the bulkhead and after a lot of consideration I'm going to refit the dash, all be it lightened and quite sparce. I intend getting it flocked at a later date once I'm happy with the finished set up. I'll also need to start stripping the sound deadening from the floor and boot too. Avoiding this like the plague!

I've now got my seats, seat mounts, mount mounts :D , managed to get a momo boss kit, OMP steering wheel, OMP harnesses and some edging trim to protect door apertures, or more like, me from the apertures!

Don't have much time available this week but hope to get the stripping finished soon so I can start the refit!

Edited by badbaz
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Finally took some photos, not finished stripping out yet, behind dash area to do yet along with the sound deadening.

Dash area - OMP wheel/Momo boss having a wee trial fit

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Boot area stripped out and storing some bits

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Rear seat area, more boxes but pretty much stripped bare

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Had to remove all windows yesterday in order to remove the electric window motors as I'd sold the switches and you can't remove the motors without moving them about a bit! Will need to work on refitting the three windows permanently in the up position and await a manual winder for the o/s/f.

You can never have enough boxes to store bits in.

Managing to sell off parts bit by bit which is good.

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Been quiet(ish) at work over the past few days so spent some time on the car.

Refitted the windows, rears and passengers in the permanently up position. I'm happy with the passengers but may need to revisit the rears to ensure they stay up. Stripped the doors of all remaining unused bits and pieces. If you remove the central locking there is no way of operating the door to lock it. Bit of a pain but the rears only need to be able to open for the MOT so that will be relatively easy. The passenger door I've just removed the link from the exterior handle so it can't be opened except from the inside and the drivers side has had to have the central locking module left in place. I also decided to leave the drivers window electrically operated, might be too hard to get a manual winder and McD's is no use without a functioning window! A single switch will be rigged to operate the window.

Next it was onto the a/c and the sound deadening from behind the heater box. I removed the steering column brace bar, then the blower assembly and then the heater unit. At this point I carried on and removed the a/c components from the engine bay, compressor, condenser, pipes, belt and tensioner. It leaves a big hole on the engine, but someone says to me: fit a supercharger! :) May need to speak to VW about that!!

Engine bay minus a/c parts. Intercooler removed to ease heater pipe disconnection

camerapictures052.jpg

Back to the interior. The sound deadening on the interior bulkhead is the first thing in the car at the factory I'd say. Didn't want to remove pedals and loom and had no intention of keeping the sound deadening so proceeded to remove it a bit at a time. What a bloody headache I had after that. Took forever, much cut hands and a lot of cursing. It was pretty heavy though, so glad it's out.

Bare bulkhead

camerapictures050.jpg

Now I need to work on the heater box. Gotta remove the a/c evaporator and then get some way of operating the heater system as I don't want the stock climate control set up. This may take a while and hold up production for a bit. Only the sound deadening from the floor to scrape off now before beginning the minimal rebuild.

I sold on the Perrin Wing Stiffis I had bought as they didn't fit my spoiler well. They were a good idea and would have added to the WRC look but alas if it doesn't go well, it doesn't go at all. I wonder if anyone has had experience with these. My spoiler is not the type with the removable section on the underside of the upper plane. I wonder if this is where the problem lies?

More soon.

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Been quiet(ish) at work over the past few days so spent some time on the car.

Refitted the windows, rears and passengers in the permanently up position. I'm happy with the passengers but may need to revisit the rears to ensure they stay up. Stripped the doors of all remaining unused bits and pieces. If you remove the central locking there is no way of operating the door to lock it. Bit of a pain but the rears only need to be able to open for the MOT so that will be relatively easy. The passenger door I've just removed the link from the exterior handle so it can't be opened except from the inside and the drivers side has had to have the central locking module left in place. I also decided to leave the drivers window electrically operated, might be too hard to get a manual winder and McD's is no use without a functioning window! A single switch will be rigged to operate the window.

Next it was onto the a/c and the sound deadening from behind the heater box. I removed the steering column brace bar, then the blower assembly and then the heater unit. At this point I carried on and removed the a/c components from the engine bay, compressor, condenser, pipes, belt and tensioner. It leaves a big hole on the engine, but someone says to me: fit a supercharger! :) May need to speak to VW about that!!

Engine bay minus a/c parts. Intercooler removed to ease heater pipe disconnection

camerapictures052.jpg

Back to the interior. The sound deadening on the interior bulkhead is the first thing in the car at the factory I'd say. Didn't want to remove pedals and loom and had no intention of keeping the sound deadening so proceeded to remove it a bit at a time. What a bloody headache I had after that. Took forever, much cut hands and a lot of cursing. It was pretty heavy though, so glad it's out.

Bare bulkhead

camerapictures050.jpg

Now I need to work on the heater box. Gotta remove the a/c evaporator and then get some way of operating the heater system as I don't want the stock climate control set up. This may take a while and hold up production for a bit. Only the sound deadening from the floor to scrape off now before beginning the minimal rebuild.

I sold on the Perrin Wing Stiffis I had bought as they didn't fit my spoiler well. They were a good idea and would have added to the WRC look but alas if it doesn't go well, it doesn't go at all. I wonder if anyone has had experience with these. My spoiler is not the type with the removable section on the underside of the upper plane. I wonder if this is where the problem lies?

More soon.

You have been busy with stripping the dash .Are the yellow wire's on transmission tunnel for the Dccd A ecu??? .Hope you know were every thing goes back when refitting dash .I would be out with the masking tape labeling all the multi plugs and other bits and pieces and do you live by the sea with the corrosion to alu ie engine bay .I used quicksilver corrosion gauard on my engine to stop that

Edited by Dipsy
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You have been busy with stripping the dash .Are the yellow wire's on transmission tunnel for the Dccd A ecu??? .Hope you know were every thing goes back when refitting dash .I would be out with the masking tape labeling all the multi plugs and other bits and pieces and do you live by the sea with the corrosion to alu ie engine bay .I used quicksilver corrosion gauard on my engine to stop that

The yellow stuff is airbag circuits. Only two plugs for dash out so no problems with that. Never been one for cleaning engines, seen too many problems with water, prefer just to drive it. Don't live by the sea.

Edited by badbaz
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Latest efforts saw me getting rid of the 'bitch a min' sound deadening sheets that were in the way of putting stuff back in. There is a small one on the shell just below the windscreen, why?, I have no idea, but I removed it, the one over the transmission tunnel and the one from the passengers front footwell. To be honest, it wasn't anywhere near as hard as I thought. The only problem is where it covers seam sealer, it sticks like hell at these points and the guy in the factory isn't the most particular worker when it comes to where it's applied to! I just used a chizel and hammer, it chips away in largish chunks, any bits left I scrape off with a stanley blade in a scraper holder and then a wipe down with a petrol rag. Still lot's of that to do but none to stop me doing some stuff to the car.

With those bits cleaned up I blanked off the a/c pipe hole, the drain hole and after removing the evaporator from the heater box, I blanked off the unwanted holes in it too. I refitted the ecu and it's holder to the passenger footwell, then the heater box and the blower assembly, then put the dash back in. I modified the heater vent ducting as I don't require the vents above where the radio used to be, before I put the dash back in, I have plans for that area. Connected up the heater pipes under the bonnet and refitted the intercooler, at the same time removing the intercooler spray pipe and nozzle. Don't think there are any other things to be done under the bonnet for now.

At this point I plugged in the gauges as I want to start her up and check for warning lights with the airbag ecu being removed and just make sure everything is ok before carrying on. Also need to sort out the starting since the alarm is no longer in the car. It was late in the day and can't find the relay at present, the wires change colour through the loom and the wiring diagram I have for 2006 I suspect is different to my 05 model. That's Monday's first task.

Good to be putting stuff back in for a change. Once the dash is back in and starting/gauges all ok it's gonna be seat mounting time. Oh, and more bloody scraping!

Back soon!

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