Studs And Nuts

[thewelsho]

Looking like I need to replace my wheel studs and nuts as many of nuts are strpped of thread. I can only assume that the nuts are being stripped in this way becasue the studs are damaged. My NSR wheel is currently being held on my only two nuts as the other three just turn without tightening. Those nuts are stripped off thread. I'm waiting on some nuts coming from the sale section and hoping that will sort it out, but if not I need to change those too.

So:

Is this a hard job, and how do I do it?

Where can I get the studs?

If I can't do it (most likely) how much would this likely cost me for a garage to do it?

Cheers!

JW

[emoe]

Hey mate!

this isnt really a hard job, but you can run into difficulty getting the old studs out.

You will need to remove the hub as the studs go in from behind and they dont go in or out with the hub still fitted to the car.

Once the hub is off, you should be able to douse them in some BREAK FREE (WD40 or equivalent) and leave them to soak for a while.

Then you MIGHT have to apply a little heat if they are really stubborn.

Get yourself a good 3lb hammer, and put the hub on an old socket that clears the back of the stud head. Then Hit the stud HARD once. it should come out the back.

Once all are out, check the splines for damage in the hole, and clean out with some wd.

Insert the new stud from behind (ooerrr missus!) and hit once hard with the mallet to seat.

Refit the hub and fit the wheel.

Tighten the wheel nuts up with a torque wrench first (DONT USE AN IMPACT YET!!!)

then release the wehhl nuts again. Do this about three or four times just to make sure everything is seated well.

Go for a drive 5-10 miles then recheck the nuts.

Now youre all done!

[thewelsho]

Hey mate!

this isnt really a hard job, but you can run into difficulty getting the old studs out.

You will need to remove the hub as the studs go in from behind and they dont go in or out with the hub still fitted to the car.

Once the hub is off, you should be able to douse them in some BREAK FREE (WD40 or equivalent) and leave them to soak for a while.

Then you MIGHT have to apply a little heat if they are really stubborn.

Get yourself a good 3lb hammer, and put the hub on an old socket that clears the back of the stud head. Then Hit the stud HARD once. it should come out the back.

Once all are out, check the splines for damage in the hole, and clean out with some wd.

Insert the new stud from behind (ooerrr missus!) and hit once hard with the mallet to seat.

Refit the hub and fit the wheel.

Tighten the wheel nuts up with a torque wrench first (DONT USE AN IMPACT YET!!!)

then release the wehhl nuts again. Do this about three or four times just to make sure everything is seated well.

Go for a drive 5-10 miles then recheck the nuts.

Now youre all done!

AHA!!! You had me believing you that this was easy until you said, "remove the hub"! If I have to ask how to do this, the I suppose shouldn't be doing it at all right? I'm going to ask anyway - how do I reomve teh hub? I take it that means taking off the calipers as well, yeah?

J

[emoe]

AHA!!! You had me believing you that this was easy until you said, "remove the hub"! If I have to ask how to do this, the I suppose shouldn't be doing it at all right? I'm going to ask anyway - how do I reomve teh hub? I take it that means taking off the calipers as well, yeah?

J

bit worried mate!!

Youll need some hefty sockets and probably a good impact gun (1/2" id imagine)

Youll need to remove the caliper, and the carrier (if its 4 pots, just the two bolts on the back of the caliper, then move it out the way.

The disc will then come off, revealing a large castelised nut. Remove the TANG device or split pin whichever yours has and remove this nut. Its a 32mm i believe.

Once that is off, remove the track rod end from the steering and the ARB drop link.

then undo the bottom ball joint and use a spreader. Dont smack it as this will weaken the ball joint and youll end up having to replace it down the line,

then remove the bolts and nuts holding the upper strut on the hub, abnd using a copper or hide mallet, knock the splined driveshaft through the hole in the hub as you pull towards you. Dont pull the hub off with the driveshaft or youll make a complete mess!!!

refit is reverse of removal!

easy innit!

[thewelsho]

easy innit!

Nope! A job for the professionals and looking at that list, seems like the labour charges will kill me!

Nothing is ever straight forward

Edited July 24, 2008 by TheWelsho

[terzo neil]

its a doodle to change the studs

[JohnSt]

Nope! A job for the professionals and looking at that list, seems like the labour charges will kill me!

Nothing is ever straight forward

Can we back track a bit here ! Are you seriously running around with two nuts holding a wheel on ?

FFS, that's madness !!!!!!

[stevenhiggster]

Can we back track a bit here ! Are you seriously running around with two nuts holding a wheel on ?

FFS, that's madness !!!!!!

Thats what I was thinking

Edited July 24, 2008 by stevenhiggster

[emoe]

Welsho, it really isnt that hard mate.

Its really simple, just undo the things as i listed and put your new studs in.

Any decent motor mechanic should charge no more than 2 hours MAXIMUM to do the job.

I would think that you should be able to do it in a couple or three hours easily. Surely one of the guys up near you can sit in while you do it?

[JohnSt]

Welsho, it really isnt that hard mate.

Its really simple, just undo the things as i listed and put your new studs in.

Any decent motor mechanic should charge no more than 2 hours MAXIMUM to do the job.

I would think that you should be able to do it in a couple or three hours easily. Surely one of the guys up near you can sit in while you do it?

Shouldn't you be advising him on where to catch a bus firstly ?

[terzo neil]

straight to the dealers to buy wheel studs and new nuts

[thewelsho]

Can we back track a bit here ! Are you seriously running around with two nuts holding a wheel on ?

FFS, that's madness !!!!!!

I removed the track wheels today and fitted my regular wheels. when I tightned up the studs three of them kept turning but only two actually tightened. As yet, I have not driven the car, but I have to because it is due in Hypertech tomorrow to get the geo checked. I'll just have to toddle through at 50mph!

Edited July 24, 2008 by TheWelsho

[thewelsho]

its a doodle to change the studs

You can do it then

[colzo]

John I had to replace some studs and nuts due to damage caused by locking nuts (long story). The studs are pennies but the fitting can be a pain in the ar$e due to the ABS so I took it to the dealers (ouch!!!! ). Once you have it all fixed invest in a decent torque wrench (the setting for the nuts are 88nm/65lb ft).

[thewelsho]

John I had to replace some studs and nuts due to damage caused by locking nuts (long story). The studs are pennies but the fitting can be a pain in the ar$e due to the ABS so I took it to the dealers (ouch!!!! ). Once you have it all fixed invest in a decent torque wrench (the setting for the nuts are 88nm/65lb ft).

Much did it cost you mate? And for how many studs?

[colzo]

Much did it cost you mate? And for how many studs?

4 Studs on different wheels, it was in for a service so can't recall how much just for fitting the studs but I imagine £100. Lesson learnt (the hard way as normal).

I'm like you, I'll give things a bash but this seemed tricky and you have to be very careful with the ABS or it could end up costing a fortune.

[thefastone]

I;m kinda with John here John, I wouldn't be driving that car ANYWHERE AT ALL till you have at least got new nuts on, as driving with only 2 in the one wheel is asking for trouble, also, driving at 30 like that would be bad enough, but going to 50mph I would have thought in that situation to be akin to suicide...

Also, I'm sure that hypertech wouldn't want to do your geo with the car in that condition....?

Makes me wonder though, does your studs REALLY need to be changed? can you not clean up the threads? what kind of condition are they in mate?

and how did you manage to cross thread that many? I don't know, to me, I just don't think that if its the studs, its going to be JUST the studs... if that makes ANY sense at all...

[AlanG]

John I had to replace some studs and nuts due to damage caused by locking nuts (long story). The studs are pennies but the fitting can be a pain in the ar$e due to the ABS so I took it to the dealers (ouch!!!! ). Once you have it all fixed invest in a decent torque wrench (the setting for the nuts are 88nm/65lb ft).

Or if you don't want to fork out for a torque wrench, use the spanner Subaru gave you in the toolkit and tighten the nuts up by hand and not your foot or with extension pieces slipped over the top of them. They are the length they are for a reason.

[thewelsho]

I;m kinda with John here John, I wouldn't be driving that car ANYWHERE AT ALL till you have at least got new nuts on, as driving with only 2 in the one wheel is asking for trouble, also, driving at 30 like that would be bad enough, but going to 50mph I would have thought in that situation to be akin to suicide...

Also, I'm sure that hypertech wouldn't want to do your geo with the car in that condition....?

Makes me wonder though, does your studs REALLY need to be changed? can you not clean up the threads? what kind of condition are they in mate?

and how did you manage to cross thread that many? I don't know, to me, I just don't think that if its the studs, its going to be JUST the studs... if that makes ANY sense at all...

Long story: I put one nut on at an angle and srewed it. That was ok, it was only one stud. However, with getting punture repairs, springs fitted, COs fitted wheels changed etc. the dodgy nut was getting around, messing up more of the studs which in turn messed up more of the nuts. On and on it goes until I have arrived at where I am now. I'm going to take a nut off of another wheel that has all 5 holding and stick it on the rear and that means I have three. I have been running with three for a while on one rear wheel with not issues, so it should be ok. I'll talk to Duncan when I am in and see what he says.

[ed-209]

Long story: I put one nut on at an angle and srewed it. That was ok, it was only one stud. However, with getting punture repairs, springs fitted, COs fitted wheels changed etc. the dodgy nut was getting around, messing up more of the studs which in turn messed up more of the nuts. On and on it goes until I have arrived at where I am now. I'm going to take a nut off of another wheel that has all 5 holding and stick it on the rear and that means I have three. I have been running with three for a while on one rear wheel with not issues, so it should be ok. I'll talk to Duncan when I am in and see what he says.

John, put the car off the road untill you get the studs and nuts replaced, if your running around with less than the makers recommended 5 nuts per wheel your car would not pass an MOT and would be classed as unfit for the road, subaru uses 5 to lower the loading per stud and nut, by only using 3 you increase the loading on the remaining studs and nuts by 13% each or 39% in total, that's not safe. so it's not if it's when something goes wrong. and your not know for driving like miss daisy.

see if you can fix the studs using a tap and die set, (you can borrow mine if you like), and then replace the nuts.

Ed.

[JohnSt]

John, put the car off the road untill you get the studs and nuts replaced, if your running around with less than the makers recommended 5 nuts per wheel your car would not pass an MOT and would be classed as unfit for the road, subaru uses 5 to lower the loading per stud and nut, by only using 3 you increase the loading on the remaining studs and nuts by 13% each or 39% in total, that's not safe. so it's not if it's when something goes wrong. and your not know for driving like miss daisy.

see if you can fix the studs using a tap and die set, (you can borrow mine if you like), and then replace the nuts.

Ed.

Studa are M12x1.25 I would doubt you'd get that commbination in 99% of Tap/Die sets

[ed-209]

Studa are M12x1.25 I would doubt you'd get that commbination in 99% of Tap/Die sets

Your right mate, just checked mine, goes upto M12x1.75 but only has M12x1.5 and M12x1.75 at that size. Someone might have the correct size so he can at least chase the treads on the studs.

[thewelsho]

Your right mate, just checked mine, goes upto M12x1.75 but only has M12x1.5 and M12x1.75 at that size. Someone might have the correct size so he can at least chase the treads on the studs.

I'm waiting on a price, I may also contact Kenny Brown at Hillington see if he can fit me in, this is a job for the pros, I'm not touching taps nor am I taking off hubs.

But many thanks for all the advice and offer of help, much appreciated

[marky.t.s]

i thought "studs and nut's" was a gay thread so didnt bother reading it last night,hope you get it sorted ,sorry i cant help mate but if you need me to hold your nuts give me a call big boy.

[thewelsho]

i thought "studs and nut's" was a gay thread so didnt bother reading it last night,hope you get it sorted ,sorry i cant help mate but if you need me to hold your nuts give me a call big boy.

Hahaha! Trust you!