Jazmac

the rad is brand new only fitted in jan09, there is however another smaller rad in the front which i think is the aircon. Its the weekend so going to drain the system and start again. Hope its not a head gasket, as its a major job i just cant afford at present, baby on the way. However i have checked the oil from the dipper and thats clear as a whistle with no white froth or scum as i would expect from a blown CH gasket. Fingers crossed its just a bad air lock as it was fine in the morning and F***ed up in the afternoon.

cheers fella gave me a few thing to tinker about with over the weekend to see if its just van air lock. fingers crossed thats all it is.

yeah i think there may be bubbles in the tank but i thought that was natural as the collant went round the system. The collant is not showing sign of oil mixed in, nor is the oil white and frothy which i would be the case if there was collant in there, mind you only checked the oil from the dipper. When the car over heats i turn off the engine and turn on the blower and it seems that there is no hot air when the heater is set to hot however this may just simple be due to the engine not running, as i use this method to cool the engine quicker by drawing hot air when it over heated. Driving into work this morning i had hot air from the vents, and also last night when testing the car.

well i drove to work which take approx 20mins and it was fine as i checked under the bonnet when i arrived, the same journy back it was over heating at least 15mins into driving home. When refilling the system after fitting the thermostat, i just filled the resevoir untill full and let it gradually seap away constantly filling it back up untill it remained at a full level, then i ran the enginge which drained the resevior which again i constant filled untill full. once full i pumped the both pipes to blow out the air.

dont know if this is any use to you. Impreza key blank

stupid question but how do you flush the system? i have just been squeezing both top and bottom rad pipes to try shift the air.

Car has developed a new problem, following some work i have been doing to it, mainly suspension work, ball joints drop links CV boots, its now started to over heat. I changed the thermostat lastnite as i thought that was at fault however never fixed over heat. The top rad hose is supper toasty and the bottom is stone cold, the coolant is back tracking and boiling/bubling out the overspill bottle behind the RHS headlight looking into the bonnet. I drove it to work this afternoon and it was fine (15miles), both top and bottom rad pipes were warm however driving it back i was stopped at lights 1 mile from my house and a car in the next lane informed me my collant was running down my bumper just after i started to drive again the temp gauge shot up, this was after constantly watching the needle while driving to and from the office, the usual para glance every 2 secs to see where the needle was sitting, when i got home checked pipes only the top was hot and solid with pressure, the bottom was cold as were the rad fins with coolant boiling bubbling from bottle behind light. any ideas as im stumped with this one only started to happen 1 week ago. 3 weeks ago i was up north and back in the car easily 1000mile round trip and it was fine.

Its a new rad replaced only in jan 09. Should mention that on the journy to work both top and bottom rad pipes were toasty, on way home only top.

Car has developed a new problem, following some work i have been doing to it, its now started to over heat. I changed the thermostat lastnite as i thought that was at fault however never fixed over heat. The top rad hose is supper toasty and the bottom is stone cold, the coolant is back tracking and boiling/bubling out the overspill bottle behind the RHS headlight looking into the bonnet. I drove it to work this afternoon and it was fine (15miles), driving it back i was stopped at lights 1 mile from my house and a car in the next lane informed me my collant was running down my bumper just after i started to drive again the temp gauge shot up, this was after constantly watching the needle while driving to and from the office, the usual para glance every 2 secs to see where the needle was sitting. any ideas as im stumped with this one only started to happen 1 week ago. 3 weeks ago i was up north and back in the car easily 1000mile round trip and it was fine.

cheers fellas, got the last one from halleys milngavie today rapped me £108 inc VAT.

Where do you folks get ur MAF sensors from, tried looking online canny find a place anywhere, are they only available from a main dealers?

Hi all, some ideas/help needed! as per topic title when i start the car its rather lumpy, when heated and stopping at lights etc it idles rather lumpy, however during driving it seems ok but i do get what i can best describe as pulses or jerks, like the car is wanting to go faster like little power kicks even though im driving at a constant speed fell it more on the m-way sitting about 60-70mph. Checked the coil pack and electrical spark by removing 1 lead at a time never made any difference to engine running when removed or not, sparkies were replaced approx 2 months ago with standard spec, but not checked them since to see if any unusual signs. Air filter checked and cleaned yesterday(K&N type) and checked ecu for falt codes using onboard black plugs under steering colum with a result of no fault codes present Oh and its a 99 S-reg wagon turbo 2000 with approx 89k, all belts replaced, with oil and filter done at same time of plugs. cheers all

Hi all, some ideas/help needed! when i start the car its rather lumpy, when heated and stopping at lights etc it idles rather lumpy also, however during driving it seems ok but i do get what i can best describe as pulses or jerks, like the car is egging me to go faster. Checked the coil pack by removing 1 lead at a time never made any difference to engine running, sparkies were replaced approx 2 months ago with standards, but not checked them since. Air filter checked and cleaned yesterday(K&N type) and checked ecu for falt codes using onboard black plugs with a result of nothing wrong. Oh and its a 99 S-reg wagon turbo 2000 with approx 89k, all belts replaced. cheers all

try www.interparcel.com i use them alot selling gear on fleabay.

link to photo auction - http://www.sweeney-kincaid.com/Sales/Photo...mp;s=1#frmFocus

just been notified of this auctin, some of you kids up north that are close may find it interesting to have a browse. http://www.sweeney-kincaid.com/Sales/Catal...amp;Saleid=1227 cheers

going to give my MY98 classic turbo wagon a service, anyone recommend any other plugs bar the ones the owner manual recommends.

where is the subaru scrappy in paisley?? i need a few bits and bobs.

dicksons do import them, there is a yellow VW look a likey in pollok, never knew they were subaru's though. http://www.dicksonsmotorgroup.co.uk/vehicl...3451&popup=

cheers fellas thats just what i was looking for.

Hello all again firstly Happy New year, had a classic a few years ago sold it and now im back in the scooby fold with a classic wagon, just could not keep away. I need som help though any one point me in the direction of schematics of the from suspension i have a knock and i suspect it a worn bush on the main lower arm linkage, i need the part No to order new. cheers all.

15mins should reset the ECU.

what is the correct gap for the plugs my manual says 1.1mm, for a MY98 uk classic 2000, but i have just swaped the short block + heads for a STI-7 as i done in the original engine should the gap be the same?? any advice girls and guys???

its a 98 classic mate. cheers anyhows.

Where can i get one at a good price?