Big 'D'

Ok mate if you grab hold of the rod out of the back of the actuator apart from the resistance of the spring is it free to move? Oil being drawn up into the solenoid can cause lumpy boost that is worth looking at, the boost solenoid if you are not sure is on the drivers side inner wing next just behind the air box, it is held in place with 2 x 10mm nuts, remove the electrical connecton and 2 pipes and flush the ports out with carb or clutch cleaner, you could flush the pipes that were attached to the solenoid too mate but remove them from the car to do it. Once cleaned put it all back together and take it for a blast and see what you think. Cheers Iain

Hello and welcome mate its nice to see another local on the scene, I'm Iain your local RO for Oxfordshire and I am based in Carterton, we have a Christmas party happening next week at my place you are more than welcome to come along, if not I am sure we will see you about mate. Cheers Iain

There is a icon on the tread writer that says 'add picture' if you copy the http link from you online photo storage ie photobucket and paste it into the prompt from the icon. Cheers Iain

No probs mate, can you post a pic of the dent up too please? Thanks Iain

Ok mate, I would still check the ecu fault codes as a dent in the actuator will not give you a fault code. Cheers Iain

Can you find out what the code/s is/are for me mate, please, if I was a betting man my first bet would be the 'knock sensor' second is the 'maf sensor' How to read codes Click here What the codes mean Click here Cheers Iain

Ok was the jerking problem there whilst you had the bailey dump valve on or off or both? The actuator is meant to be quite stiff mate, do you have a boost gauge fitted? Have you carried out a check of your ecu fault codes yet? See the scoobypedia link at the top of this page then follow the links for ecu, reading fault codes - the one you are interested in is the one where you have to connect the wires under the dash and read the 'check engine' light flashes. Cheers Iain

I can think of cheaper ways to cut through metal LOL That is incredible, bigger driveshafts and hubs on the way for Christmas then is it Cheers Iain

Is the idle lumpy at all mate? Cheers Iain

Hi Stu, it will be nice to see you all, I am looking forward to the day Cheers Iain

Ditto here, glad you are both ok If your car is over boosting it is highly unlikely it is your boost solenoid, I would be happy to help you figure out what the cause is, it could be something as simple as the car has been slightly over filled with oil and some of the oil has got into the boost pipework and solenoid via the breathers and they just need a clean out, the fact that you are over boosting proves that the solenoid is working if it was not working it fails closed giving you wastegate boost pressure only approx 0.5 BAR. I suppose it could energise stuck open whick would give you overboost issues but I have never heard of this happening, that is not to say that it hasnt happened Please let me know if you would like to look into it, all the stuff you need to do to figure it out you can do yourself I will just post up instruction in what to do to find the fault Easy place to start is to check all the pipes between the turbo, wastegate actuator and the solenoid for splits and good tight fitting, if they are split or leaking you will have no boost control and get overboost and is the most common cause as the pipes are bad for age hardening and cracking. Cheers Iain

By cutting out @ 5500rpm do you mean fuel cut due to overboost, I am guessing that because you have a flamer kit and it flames you are running a full de-cat exhaust, due to this your turbo can spool quicker than in would with the standard system and as a result will produce boost faster, combined with the cold air we have during the winter this combination can easily result in overboost, if your car is not mapped for the de-cat it is not safe to run full boost. You can reduce the amount of boost you create by enlarging the size of the hole in the restrictor within the boost control pipe next to the 't' piece next to the turbo. Cheers Iain

Thanks Colin, No worries mate you have a good one too mate and see you when we see you I honestly thought that more people would be coming, it is hard to get anyone to do anything these days LOL Anyway I cannot wait it should be an enjoyable day. Cheers Iain

Bearing in mind the car has been mapped on the road by Bob Rawle the estimated figures are 380bhp 360ft/lbs torque, Going by the run I had last night the figures wont be far off this on the dyno Cheers Iain

Just been out for a run in it, its a bloody monster Cheers Iain

Surely there must be more people to come yet, should be a good day Come on guys get your names down Cheers Iain

Hi Michael We have a 42" LCD screen that we could watch it on with full surround sound Thanks for the offer though mate let us know fella Cheers Iain

Hi guys Just a quick update for the next meet. In addition to the party I am looking into getting access to my work for a little walk round and mabe some pics of the cars with the 'Queen of the skys' the VC10 Tanker, my bread and butter I will keep you posted. Cheers Iain

That would be great mate And thanks for all the support too Cheers Iain

Chances are that you will notice an improvement in performance therefor drive it harder more thus getting lower mpg Just kidding under normal driving conditions you should see smoother power delivery and better open road mpg eg on the motorway but this will be marginal. Cheers Iain

Get some v-power in it and you will be fine

If it was the knock sensor the ecu code would reflect this on a classic its code 22 or OBDII (P0325-P0333) Cheers Iain

It would be worth getting your knock sensor cleaned up or replaced mate it should not be flashing up on start up atal, if you have corrosion between the sensor and the block it will give false readings also if it is loose, either way I would look into it. Cheers Iain

I have known of this fault on a bugeyed> scoob when running on 95 octane fuel especially if you get a bad batch, I would recommend that for the safe running of your scoob especially if you drive it on boost alot that you run on at the very least 98 octane and preferably v-power 99 octane, I would bet that you have had a bad tank of fuel which has caused this fault, try also to use fuel from busy petrol stations as they get fresh fuel more often than back street filling stations. Cheers Iain

I am going to hazard a guess that you run the car on normal unleaded 95 octane, if this is so run the car on super if you can and this fault should go away. And no the ecu will not flash a check engine light if your screen wash is low Cheers Iain