the_1

think you will find that he checked out my profile first so is he stalking me????

exactly the same as mine except i had the fogs put in at pdi as i didn't like the plastic grilles, apparantly you have to have a new light stalk as well as the switch is built in to it they said.

you lot started it i've now been accused of thread stalking and having to compensate for something, i don't remember having a go at you lot before you all started it. i'm sure ian is big enough to fight his own battles he doesn't need his appreciation squad sticking up for him we were having quite a good debate before you lot stuck your oars in. this is a public forum people are allowed to have a different opinion of a problem, just because ian says it could be this doesn't mean it is, i've been working on subarus since before you lot left school and without having the car in front of me to have a good look at and based on what has been posted about the faults and my own experience i don't believe it's the water pump. now if i'm wrong fair enough but at least i'm contributing to the thread and not using my first post to have a go at someone. so grow up stop throwing mud at people and post about the problem, if you don't have anything to contribute then don't.

lol no mate i don't need to i don't drive a sport!

could say the same about some other people on here,

an easy check for the pump would be to remove the rad cap and see if you can see the water circulating, it normally comes in from the rubber pipe from rad to tank. if it's circulating it churns the water around in the tank and the pump is working if it's not being churned around and quite still then the pump has gone.

i some how feel that if it is the head gaskets it'll still be a broken water pump

what you have described is classic head gasket symptoms, for some reason the flat 4 layout develops an airlock preventing flow in the circuit, you get red hot top hose, cool rad and with a select monitor plugged in you can see the temp rise even with the fans going.

it won't be the water pump they go noisy they leak but they don't stop spinning, it's an all metal construction no plastic impellor to shear off or break, could be the rad is partially blocked if your still looking for lack of circulation, i take it the fans are connected what were they doing?

very very rare for a water pump to fail on a subaru, wetness in the footwell could be the matrix they have been known to go which is a dash out job but easily done in a mornings work. this would also cause the temp gauge to rise and the blowers to start blowing cold air as the water level drops. the other thing that causes no heater and high engine temps is head gasket failure which if it has pressurised the system enough could have popped a seam on the matrix. a big give away for head gasket on a subaru is bubbles in the expansion tank to prove it just link the 2 heater pipes together and go for a drive obviously top the water level up first but if the gauge reads ok then it's just the heater matrix if it still goes up then either head gasket or a stuck thermostat but if you have bubbles as well it's headgaskets

it's a preservative to protect the ally, subaru do like to spray it over everything though even plastics!

i heard adams were going due to not selling any cars

thats better!

i do believe that when i wrote short answers before i got told by someone to include more detail to help people out so i include more detail and you lot still don't like it it's still wrong. as for my car i have just taken delivery of a new 330 and before that i had an rb320

it doesn't look right it doesn't look part of the car, if it wasn't for the side vents i'd swear it was a non turbo with a halfords scoop stuck on it.

i don't mince words theres no point beating around the bush!

i don't mind the pink stickers but those wheels are awfull but each to their own i suppose!!

the actuator shouldn't need to be adjusted if you keeping things standard you only need to play with it if your tuning the car. on all the 3 port ones i've owned i always fit a valve in place of the restrictor it's amazing how much more you can eek out of it.

ahhh didn't know it was a 3 port so in that case ditch the restrictor and fit an adjustable valve in it's place it's a lot more fine tunable

to increase boost with the restrictor you make the hole smaller so it takes longer to fill the waste gate actuator to reduce boost you make the hole larger

got to say i don't think thats to bad a price for a brand new section that will have no kinks or dents in it, especially as your going to need new clips they always have a habit of breaking

can defo vouch for the guys at cotswolds they have the no.2 tech for subaru in the country there and thats decided by subaru in a competition they run not just made up by cotswolds!

cotswolds subaru are the best garage in oxfordshire and they do a sliding labour scale so the older the car the cheaper it costs.

yep cotswolds get my vote too especially as there top tech came second in the uk in a competition run by subaru themselves.

whose that then willip? i know one of them in there has been there over 10 yrs and has just come second in the uk in a competition run by subaru.