Green Hornet

John, Wise words. Worth checking the bag filter in the tank to rule it out if nothing else - not a difficult job to do if you've got a spare hour and easier to get at with the rear seat out. Just something else to look at /rule out. Cheers, Stewart.

The 7 is a 'colder' plug - dissipates heat into the head/water jacket faster and helps to reduce combustion chamber temps so fending off the possibility of detonation. Good idea to fit colder plugs when remapping for increased boost and performance. However, somewhat bizarrely, NGK don't make an ILFR7B plug! (sorry - dont' know why there isn't a straight heat rating number change like there was on the PFR plugs used in 2.0 engines) Correct part no. for colder plugs on the 2.5 is ILFR7H (same plug used in the Evo IX). Hope this helps. Cheers, Stewart.

Steve, Pretty much as Acid says but on the brakes I'd add two things: 1. As above, what set up you go for will be dictated by how/where you drive. Assuming it's a faster road set up, wait until you've done the other bits and see whether the OE pads need replacing immediately. While they're (IMHO) really not too great, you may feel with the level of mods on the car that they'll be OK until they wear out. Then defo upgrade as you'll be renewing anyway IYSWIM. Obviously if they're not up to the job it's quick and easy to change to upgraded pads. 2. On that note, have used both now and while Ferodo DS are really good reckon the Pagid RS4.2.1 'black' is the best pad I've ever had on standard calipers. Simply awesome (also don't sqeak and a lot less dusty too!). Give ASPerformance a call and have a chat to Alyn there. He's currently doing both both pads at the same price and what the man doesn't know about brakes isn't worth knowing - helluva nice bloke to boot! Cheers, Stewart. BTW - Nice wheelz

Give Ian Grieve in Falkirk a call. Was about £110 (with SIDC discount ) iirc for my WRX oil/filter service. Good bunch over there - will run you into town for a bit of scoff while they get to work then pick you up and run you back to a washed car! I'm from your general neck of the woods but having used Milngavie a few times now, I have been so thoroughly underwhelmed by their attitude and (lack of) service, my car now gets a wee run across to Falkirk for servicing - 'nuff said! If you're on the south side, might want to consider S&S down in Ayr. Used them before for service work and they were good on price even before SIDC discount. Now live too far away for that round trip to be worth my while but you might be a good bit closer. Cheers, Stewart.

Done

Yeah - with you there! There's definitely something about kids, sweetie shops, Impreza owners and mods...... Suspension and brake upgrades are well worth doing - good set ups can be worth 40-50bhp on the right roads in the real world. Having the power is one thing - being able to fully exploit it's a whole other ball of wax as they say. Get some of that factory understeer removed and some better body control back and you'll be very pleasantly surprised by how much speed an Impreza can carry Cheers, Stewart. BTW: Word to the wise , having the uprated pump fitted gives you the potential to flow enough fuel on a modded car. It doesn't automatically deliver that fuel to the cylinders. Don't forget fuel pressure is regulated and you haven't altered the injector pulse width or duty cycles beyond the factory map so you aren't physically adding extra fueling - you would still run lean without being remapped.

Short answer is yes. Put simply if you run full decat or sports cat only you'll be allowing much more flow through the engine. As your current boost profile and fuel map aren't set up for so much unrestricted extra flow, you run the risk of boost spiking and lean fueling. May not happen but you'd be walking the high wire without a safety net IYSWIM. If you're determined to set the exhaust system up this way you really need to remap or potentially face repair bills down the line which could dwarf the cost of a remap. Leaving the up-pipe alone means you won't really need the remap but this will pretty much limit any power gains to what you currently have. The up-pipe cat is quite restrictive. On that note though, don't just get hung up on the potential peak power figure. Dont' forget that remapping will see you gain engine efficiency across the board because it's car specific - all aspects of boost, fuel and ignition maps will be tailored to your car and choice of fuel. Don't underestimate the effects this can have on performance. You will probably see a much improved torque figure and importantly, torque spread. This is what will make a big difference to response and driveability of the car which (IMHO) is everything if it's an everyday road car. Imagine quicker shove out of bends or away from roundabouts and quicker overtaking with an improved midrange . Reckon if you have a search through old threads you'd be incredibly hard pressed to find anyone who didn't come away from Andy F with a car that simply performed better (regardless of whatever power figure it made). Another common effect of remapping is that mpg actually goes UP! I kid you not. (Note: I think you have to do in XS of 150K miles to get back the remap costs though but it's a nice feeling not to have to visit the petrol station just quite as often.) So you see - peak bhp is only part of the remap story! Don't think you're alone there fella but bear in mind that subsequent visits to Port Seton will only cost £200+VAT . Additional map tweaks cost a lot less as you'll have already taken the hit for the license (if you go ahead on the discounted group buy). Something to maybe factor in and consider for 'down the line' Hope this helps a bit. Cheers, Stewart. BTW if you're determined to change the up-pipe, another option to the classic pipe is the STi slip jointed pipe. Either can be got 2nd hand for much cheapness. As Cal advised - worth porting, so too would be porting and wrapping the exhaust headers. A WRX prepped like this and remapped would probably make 270bhp - maybe more on 99RON fuel - with very quick spool. Some lucky WRXs make over 280bhp but this is exceptional and not really a 'take it to the bank' kind of figure.

1.3 bar peak trailing back to 1 bar sustained TD04 fitted on the Impreza is a very efficient wee turbo. Being wee though means it has a limit to what it can flow. In order to increase flow (and so hp) through a fixed apperture you need to increase flow pressure - boost. The problem with running lots of boost is twofold: high boost pressure means high inlet charge temps (problematic unless they can be managed with supporting designs/mods) and back pressure increases to the point that the turbo can't push any more air through to the cylinders. Impreza TD04 does struggle with backpressure - part of the reason it spools so quickly. Much doom & gloom was written on NASIOC about TD04s turning into flamethrowers above factory boost levels but AFAIK most of that was based on people having the wrong information. Don't know if this is maybe some of the stuff you've seen or heard that's giving you a bit of cause for concern. A fair bit of stuff was written based on a 13G compressor flow map - the Impreza TD04 uses a 13T compressor which (as all our UK tuners and Prodrive know) is way more efficent and able to be pushed a bit further while still remaining efficient and operating perfectly well with an otherwise standard engine. Not sure if whoever told you this isn't maybe confusing boost and flow . 14psi on a TD04 compared to 14psi on say an STi VF35 would show the same boost on your gauge but actual airflow differences would be significant for fueling. The TD04 being a fairly wee turbo won't flow enough air to max out your injectors. Std WRX 380cc injectors are good for approx. 300bhp (see Andy Fs website for some solid reliable info). Std fuel pump can maintain fuel pressure at max boost on PPP levels of performance which is don't forget only 261bhp (265PS). In short, with no other mods, the turbo will run out of ability to provide puff before your injectors run out of ability to provide juice and need upgrading - there are many folks still running 380cc injectors (with other mods) making 300bhp. Fuel pump wise, probably not worth moving onto a high flow pump unless you're going above 300hp. FPs do wear out with age and mileage so an uprated pump can be 'belt & braces' - you know it'll meet your current and future fuel demands. Cheap and easy to do job but whether it's necessary for you, mmm.... Correct . Prodrive would have tested the PPP up the kazoo before sending it out and they will err on the side of safety margin to maintain warranty. If they change the boost profile and don't deem it necessary to change components it's because that profile will generically work and bad things wont (as a rule) start happening to customers cars. Don't forget, again lots of folks running remapped WRXs and depending on supporting mods see power figures which are generally in XS of the PPP 261bhp ! As above, depends if you really get into remapping and tailor the map parameters to your car (as I said before, RESPECT to you for doing this yourself fella), also will depend on what other supporting mods you do but probably only necessary if you're going to get a bigger turbo. Hope this helps. Cheers, Stewart. PS quite interesting thread here which you may well find useful. Also has compressor flow maps and some datalogged figures that might be of help/further interest.

Is it not about 9" ?

Second that! New site soooo much better. Cheers, Stewart.

Made it across unscathed! What an easy transition and very well done to all involved - new site is just GREAT. Loving all the new features and the increased speed! Cheers, Stewart.

Yep, call Alyn at ASPerformance - 0191 410 3770. What the man doesn't know about brakes isn't worth knowing. Have also recently got new pads and discs from Alyn but after a good chat, ditched the DS2500s in favour of Pagid RS4.2.1 blacks. He's doing them delivered for the same price (£130) at the mo and reckons the Pagid has a superior compound. I've only done about 800miles on them so far but have to agree - better stoppers than my DSs. Much choice in the disc department but depends what you're going to need (looks, track performance, upgrades) so probably worth talking to. When you compare the costs against what 'Stealers' charge for OE stuff, it's probably not too much cheaper BUT performance-wise, even on standard 4 pot calipers, expect to have to peel yer face off the dash when you hit the pedal! Cheers, Stewart.

Agree with ozzy. Check the part number. Whiteline ARBs are the donkey's! Fitment is perfect and the bar shouldn't have any lateral movement. MY01- All use the same front ARB, but the rear bars differ with model and year. MY01-MY02 ONLY, part no is BSR33 (or BSR33Z for adjustable 'blade' type bar). If that's what's been supplied for your blobeye then it's the wrong part. MY02- Part no should be BSR36 (or BSR36Z for adjustable bar) MY04- Part no can be BSR36 or 37 (depends on type of link fitted) Have come across this mix n' match of rear bars before. Some suppliers don't seem to think there's any change from MY01 on, but the rear bars do change. Worth a quick look. Hope this helps m8 ;-)

If you're North Glasgow, give J&A Motors in Milngavie a visit. Tel 0141 956 7979 - ask for John. They just repaired my front bumper after an idiot neighbour managed to take a chunk out it. Hardie Inglis wanted £400 to fix, J&A did it for £100. The repair is absolutely seemless. Part of my job involves colour matching and I can't spot where it's been fixed. Better than that HI wanted the car for 3 days. These guys turned it round in 1 day. My kind of place!