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Welcome to the club Very hard to judge rices at the moment. Mate quoted by we buy cars .com￡27K fo his M3 jut befor Covid 7 day later, ￡10K less. Good car will aways sell but You needto post some pictures up Tont

search youtube for COBB Subaru short shifter install. its not that clear in vidoe but item 4 in dons picture, it comes out quite easy with a knack.LOL if you grab the bottom edge of tbe gator hole. 1) with both hands use a finger and thumb hold each bottom corner. (clip not that hard can be done one handed) 2) A thumb on silver part and put finger into the gator till you feel the under side silver plastic (underneath your thumb) and pinch together like crab claw. 3) repeat in other bottom as above with other hand. 4) With good grip pull up and towards gaerstick /radio and bottom should pop out. (unclip) 5) then top edge has two location lus/clips/hinge and should fall out. You to put these in first on assembly should be able to hang over gear knob. to put back in 1) push up top edge up and locate two lugs 2) keeping a litle pressure so lugs dont fall out, hinge down to position 3) push bottom edge firmlly towards gearstick and should click easily into place 4) if not use pinch method. Tony

brilliant , certainly better than some ive seen most are not wokplace freindly

Correct EL or ELC Code means same (C means nougthing) but means different on 98 or 01 car. or has DCCD, old wheels, roof vent & no stereo. etc. ss said Ade or Dean on type RA.com can definitely say whatit means Tony

IIRC.it may mean no DCCD so it may have ABS, as ecu could only handle one or the other. I agree type ra always good info, Dean or Ade Top Blokes see this post below seems most are dealer fitted options metntins WNC, 73C, 75C 83C https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/vin-code-help-gc8f2dd-type-r-ltd.13017/ this one below is BLC https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/option-code-decoding.30124/ https://classicregister.com/content/how-identify-1999-2000-subaru-gc-impreza-wrx-sti-version-6 https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1304408 Tony

Welcome to the Club and looks a lovely unmolested model, you did well by the looks Tony

very nice and agree with above @The Don is top banana on scooby codes. engine would depend if drivable and what part of the country you are, as very spread out. Also or take out engine yourself and post.? Tony

hi Peter i did enjoy that thanks for sharing Tony

Dont tell and keep them all guessing Just tease me

DITTO

yes heat is a awesome tip. Welding on expands metal and weld cools it contracts can provide thermal shock Tip 1 I have rothenberger gas gun in my plumming kit real handy. it can start and stop instantly. Saves knocking over still lit if not check car insurance first covers fire and theft Tip 2 Really need to heat the outside body so expands and cool the bolt in therory. So heat stub area (to expand) watch out for grases and oil etc. Then spay bolt head with cold WD40 (to contract) or even better pipe freezing spray. Caution hot wd40/Oil vapour "steam" can be VERY flammible and Flash Tip 3 Bearing outer races in a bore and cannot get out. Far to tight and little to no lip to press or hit. We put runs of weld around the inside of outer race, let weld cool and weld "pulls" & contracts the race just falls out. Tip 4 if inner race on a shaft is hard and fast no lip to press etc. put race anvil and hit hard with hammer, heavy cold chisel. if good hard race it will crack and split easy after 1 or 2 good hits. if doesnt put a knick along it with grinder an cold chisel in knick. If still does not snap, avoid using grinder to cut race in half as will cut shaft. Nomally least shat damage by using grinder flat. you will see difference as get nearly through to shaft sometimes blue and splits open. Tip 5 Fitting bearings on shafts without press. Emerse bearings in a tin with oil and heat up in oven 80-120*c and expands them to so Slips on by hand to shafts. But once cool would need 50-200 ton press to get off. please use eye protection, apprentice tapped a reamer with a hammer, peice hit him in eye VERY lucky never lost it. and other PPE Covid 19, should be leaving singapore now for Melboure Tony

Very nice

thats awesome i do love the shape of the new Saloon. get a picture of both up Tony

a little quiet as most events off perhapseveyone in the garden??? Tony

Cracking picture................ both dying to get in to drive. Ive been to five scooby weddings over the years and really works as a theme. Tony

looking good, my two are gopping as still working.

nice

trys to rip my bonnet off over 120mph. the hawk scoop looks like original but inbetween sizes. yes somewhere new, maybe get ankle tag next time

Cracking pictures and lovely car? LEON as your aware my old fashioned views of 03-05 bonnet scoops on classics. But it does seem the upgrade of choice, so just like haters of my bugeye In the past, I’m going have to just get over it. LOL we need another night out and a beer or tHree ? tony

Thanks Leon ? yes with the matching tank top ?

The theory is any bolt that’s rocking tight, hitting it into thread shocks and stretches on the recoil. And becomes losser. looks like your mechanically astute so apologies. Not a sucking eggs post. as we have a very vast range of skills here I had access to left handed drills, easy outs and helicoil kit. Hardest is getting to drill central. Start with smallest drill first. Try NOT to bend and snap the drill as that’s a complete shitstorm. The open hole can be worse as rusted from rear. But can wound right through with right hand drill. The blind hole is normally clean once sheared off. good luck post some picks up ?

You have to guess which is me ? A little clue my mates (blond natural hair) wedding 1975 so I was 20

second hand try here https://www.autoyas.com/GB/Darlaston/1030628683662708/MB-Developments the chap posts as MattyBR5 is on most media forums Tony

also taking out the bolts can be bigger issue than getting. so worth trying to remove first and copper slip back in. Making simpler job next time. some holes are blind and some are threaded right though the hubs. if I've taking out 3 bolts one would shear off a better success rate method i found, clean out through hole and spray shed loads of WD40. Also spray over the back of plate hub seaps to the blind hole. leave over night even better respray more WD leave again for next day. Next approx big hammer and 10mm round punch (or old short extensoin socket bar) hit the head of the bolt straght into hub very hard 3/4 times ish. Then a little prayer spray more WD and undo. hopefully may save drilling out and re tapping, may not. tony

Can you pass on Andy Carr email address to lockhead