emoe

Youre right, i wouldnt go with just a boost controller unless its capable of adjusting the fueling to go with it. You should be running about 1.1 bar unless im mistaken, which is about 15.7psi. You may be able to bump that up to about 1.3 bar which is about 18.5 psi I know that doesnt sound a lot but it will make a huge difference. Boost is always safe as long as the parameters of the engine are observed. 1: can the bottom end of the engine handle the added pressure. 2: can the head gasket and ancillaries handle the extra pressure. 3: is the engines cooling devices able to cope with the added heat? 4: are you able to supply a positive amount of fuel throughout the rev range? 5: do you have any device in which to measure the Knock (detonation) The first two are a yes on the car you have if wanting just a touch more, the third will be a bit iffy once you start going up above 350Bhp, as the top mount wont cope. and number 4 will require a Walbro uprated pump, and a remap to check the fueling and ignition values. lastly number 5, you really ought to have a KnockLink or other kind of VISUAL device to show the amount of Knock. Larger values are indications that Detonation is oocouring, and thats an engine killer.

Is it me or does Ollie look like Hanibal Lecter in the very first shot??

That sounds about right to be honest. Mine is 300 and makes 246 wheels. but then i dont have the DCCI box. What have you done to the STI then? if nothing you have got a good standard car there,

Welcome mate! is that a WRX or an actual WR1? is really good looking!

Willie, if you have to get the Nut off, then removing the splines from the gearbox isnt going to help you. You will find that when the nuts are put on they become seriously tight after a while. I have found the only way to remove these is with a 1/2 drive impact, as the shock of the rattle moves the nut. When you use a breaker bar or such like you are putting POSITIVE pressure on the nut, and at a constant force. That wont move it. It needs to have the same kind of FORCE but applied in judders! if that wont remove it, then warm the nut up with a blowtorch and it will come off.

NONE of those you listed from Ebay are STI type intercoolers. The first one is a fake, its a STD uk spec intercooler from a newage with STI sprayed on (doesnt even look like a good job) Second one is also an aftermarket, and NOT a VERY LARGE one as it states in the listing, its still smaller than the original STI version, and the same goes for the second one. If you want to fit something aftermarket, then dont mess about and buy a front mount. If you want to have a top mount then just wait and spend the money on a GENUINE STI top mount. I had an Autobahn 88 top mount on my car after the original one was damaged, and it did make a difference but no where near as much as a big STI one would have.

This began a few years back when i lived over in Oklahoma, and it gets some Major publicity, and serious supporters! The NFL were looking at boycotting the whole thing as it was stealing viewers of their games schedules! Oklahoma doesnt have an NFL team, as we are all College Football people so OSU and OU football teams organised their own Lingerie Leauge!! Must admit, i spent WAY too much time at Holley Field then!!!!!

They are the old 2 piston SLIDER type, there was only one set of pads available for those calipers, unlike the 4 pots that had two different sets. Firstly, the pistons look VERY rusty although they are all the way in so the pads should have fitted. Secondly the slider bar, that needs cleaning off, rubbing right down with some 400 grade paper, greasing up well and a new rubber cover fitting. If the pistons are free, then continue, if the pistons are not free then you need to decide wether to replace, repair or upgrade to 4 pots. I personally would junk the slider type and buy a set of decent 4 pots. When you fit the pads, make sure the two surfaces on the CARRIER, not the caliper are clean and greased, as from the photo it looks like they are MANK. and make sure the pads are fitted snugly with the anti-rattle shim in place. Then you slide the caliper over the pads, and refit the bottom bolt in place. Then pump the brakes so the pistons come out to meet the pads. Make sure you run the car easy on the brakes for about 50 miles (thats minimum) to allow the new pads to bed into any grooves in the old discs.

Firstly make sure the caliper pistons are FLUSH with the body of the caliper. If they are not, they will make it hard for you to fit NEW pads. Ideally, the way to get the pistons back in is to clamp the Hose just after the Banjo bolt, then crack the bleed nipple and push all the pistons back, this does a few things. 1: its MUCH easier to get the pistons back in without them pushing the others back out!! trust me youll go round and round sometimes!! 2: saves damage to the master cylinder when you push fluid BACK up the system. 3: if you have ABS, you CAN screw the abs system up by pushing the fluid back up the pipes. You can use a pair of mole grips with some cardboard to clamp the pipe, it doesnt need pinching tight just a little light pressure will do. You wont need to bleed the brakes either as the air isnt in the system and the brake system will repressure the pistons again. You MUST have the pistons all the way back though. Once all that is done and the pistons are flush, then fit the pads, use a little copper grease on the edges and backs to prevent squeal and siezing. If the pads still dont fit, then bang your head against the wall and go make a cup of coffee. then pick up the phone and wail like a stuck pig at the supplier for sending you the WRONG PADS!!!

In order of owned. I will find all the pics out and post them when im at home. some of them i only have on hard photo format Started off with a Triumph Dolomite Sprint GT (lasted a few weeks!) mini Van (broke the subframe rolling it round Millbrook) Mini Clubman Cooper (sister cried so much because she wanted it back!!) Ford Capri 2.8 Ghia (HORRID!) Ford Escort Rs Mexico (still got it) Ford Sierra XR4i (pants! but brill in the wet! great fun!) Ford Sierra Rs500 (traded WHAT A FOOL!!) Ford Sierra Saphhire Cosworth (traded again) Ford Escort Cosworth (not impressed as much as i thought i would be) Ford Rs200 Road Spec (terrible car to drive on the road) Ferrari 308Gtb (hunk of sh**) MOVED TO AMERICA Ford Lightning pick up (what a bag of!) Nissan Titan 4x4 (brilliant! 380Bhp standard!) Ford Saleen Mustang (i reccomend these to anyone! Mine had a Whipple charger and 560Hp) Nissan 350Z Nismo Prototype (plastic porche, was ok but not overly impressed) Camaro 1993 v6 (runaround) Nissan Pathfinder (hunting Truck) Chevrolet 4x4 Ranchking Monster Truck, built by us, 49" tyres, Mudswampers, 30" over height lift, 2 1/2 ton Unimog axles, 502 Caddilac engine, with Whipple charger, 1170 Dominator carbs (x2) Atlas transfer case, 4l80e tranny, Atlas Splitter, 4 wheel steering, 900hp and a top speed of 65mph!! AC Cobra Kit car built around a Mustang GT 5.4 engine and running gear, Ford 1932 Suicide Door Coupe, running a Roche mustang kit Mitsibushi Evo 6 (nice car) Renault Clio Cup Car, Race only. (now sold as moving to different series) Alfaromeo 156 tourismo Turbo (modified by us as a project) Subaru Impreza UK spec (see my details) Chevrolet 1951 Pickup (our restoration) Chevrolet 1948 CAB OVER (next restoration) Suzuki TL1290 (monster) honda Fireblade Suzuki DR400Z supermoto

WHAT A T**T

I totally agree, it will cause more people to want to scratch of vandalise the car mistaking it for an officers personal vehicle. When i worked as a cop in america, i had Police plates on the truck and car and i got more Redneck Cop haters, (mostly Crank (meth) users) pulling the aeriels and wing mirrors off the car in wal-Mart. personally i would go for a different plate mate that wont draw attention to yourself. As for offending police officers, im sure that the decent ones out there wont be offended as its a Numberplate, it would be different if you had stickers made up all over the car!!

HA!! i added a review too!! Said that i was a surfer and that i used it to polish my Wood!! Cant wait to see if they post that one!!!

the site has been slow for me too and even locking up sometimes, yet other sites are working fine. Maybe the server that they use is getting hammered

PMSL!!! you need to stop smoking!!!! ;) :D

Still love the Hawkeye, and i STILL think that subaru have made a BAD decision making every model a hatch but then thats my opinion. We were talking about the new models, and to be honest, i wouldnt buy a new subaru, (not that i would buy ANY new car at the present time anyway!! ) and the whole shape change would swing me towards an Audi RS model. The 330 was up at the gathering wasnt it?

AHA"""" theres the culprit!! Its a guinea pig!!

;) :D do you not think the Lions claws might inflict a bit more damage to the paintwork mate!!!!

i totally agree, and the pinks are the 550's even if you do buy second hand injectors, id always advise at the very least you have the ultrasonic cleaned, but always best to have them flowed.

WHOA steady!!! im not so sure about all that mate!! but thanks for the kind words, just trying to help people out!! Cal have you got one of those bad boys then?? they look pretty darn good mate!!

Oh soprry i thought it said 20g, but regardless the TD05 is a much bigger turbo than the original TDo4. I believe the Yellows youre looking at should fit ok, and you will certainly need that apexi sorting out then. Good luck```

yes mate, theres a fuse box with a good power output source in the engine bay. If you spend a couple of quid on some loom wrap then you can make the intsall look like a factory kit!!

EDITED ALL THAT!! just read your signature. Right so with a 20g TD05 and the pump already uprated and an FMIC id hope you have had the Apexi in place already!! Its never a good idea to run the 20g on a car that originally had a TD04 and small top mount as the fueling will be way out!!! SO!! i would go for some 440s, and have the apexi fitted ASAP, then get it mapped. Id go for a set of the correct Phase, unless you can find someone doing the cheap on a set of newage and adapters.

A car cover would be the best idea and the easiest. Although you can affix the ultrasonic system to the car so that it automatically triggers when the car is switched off. I am guessing this is one of the SILENT type that only the animals can hear and repels them?? Ok, then, you need to make sure its 12v. Wire the negative to a good point on the body, then you need a NORMALLY CLOSED type relay.( Normal relays are normally open, so that when the power is put to the Relay, it turns on) the one you want is when the power is put to the relay it switches off. Wire this in with an earth, a Supply wire (that will feed the system sounder) and take this from the battery with an inline 10a fuse, an ignition signal line, taken from the Fuse box. The line to the unit itself needs to have a 2 pole switch wired in for you to disable the system manually while the car is switched off, (for parking in a car park where its not needed etc etc) Wire the system up and then when you switch off the car the Siren will automatically activate until you switch the car on or disable it with the manual switch. Second method is to wire in about 4 separate washer jets, affixed into the header panel under the windscreen and plumb them to a secondary washer motor. Then wire this motor the same way, but use either a motion sensor or Light sensor system from maplins to trigger the system. Wire the trigger system into the FEED to the washer pump, so that when the system is armed and the motion sensor is activated then the washer pump runs and soaks whatever is on the bonnet. Hope that helps.

Ok that sounds like a Phase 1.5 engine, so youll need Phase 1.5 injectors or Phase 2 with the adapters.