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euan_r

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Posts posted by euan_r

  1. ps you might want to put castle nut back on hand tight before seperating hub and wishbone as hub takes a bit of leavering off. oh aye and having a  second jack under lower arm makes fitting/removing droplink bolt a lot easier.

  2. you should manage it no bother but then after saying that you just know your going to hit trouble [:(]

    wheel off,remove castle nut and split pin from lower ball joint, remove bolt through hub,remove droplink, wedge bar between arm and hub and leaver hub off top of ball joint, then hamer ball joint oot. then reasemble with new bit.

    think ats right enough.

  3. iirc sti`s have different wiring loom from normal scoobs. if yours is 93 wrx import it probably has z4 which is regarded as having best factory map. If you want to improve things think it will be apexi route unless you want to cheat and use something crude like hks fcd.

  4. confused is just price comparison site. ie the deals dont really exist tried phoning up for my cheapest quote and was told they wanted 60 or something more notes. I am with elephant and are about the cheapest. could have been cheaper slightly somewhere else but bought the car mid policy and they would have charged for ending. Theres an insurance tread somewhere on here.

  5. me neither but dads a plonker and doesnt even weld himself. it was local blacksmith that got him noo me but after seeing/hearing the state of him i wont be taking any chances. biggest expense will be new radiator i think.

  6. no not after seeing dad with welders flash. didnt help that i drilled out spot welds completly either but happened on christmas eve and had to work with drill bits i had. I am farmer so sometimes i can weld weld but sometimes only weld. bloody liners aaaaarghh.

  7. fixed my last scoob with similar damage. diy costs hardly nothing but found some of the plug welds with the mig tricky for access(where panel that supports radiator meets chassis legs). did some of them blind but got through a mot first time no bother. found it quite easy to get panel gaps equal but really tricky part is getting sidelights/headlight gap spot on. Though second hand front end i got did have some damage of its own. If the rest of your car is in tidy order though would go through insurance though as youll want color match to be spot on. i traded in not long after getting years mot.

  8. Stage one (Away

    to start fitting)

    3” Downpipe

    3” Decat center

    section & back box

    Panel filter

    Uprated spark plugs

    Fuel Pressure

    regulator

    Uprater fuel pump

    Samco Turbo hose

    Remap (might wait

    till stage 2 bit arrive and are fitted)

    Their a easy tae de min apart fae remap bitty. I ge ya a hand if yer needin. Deen it ahh afore apart fae fpr. get en o them rip off carbon rings ordered for the exhaust first though. unless of course you were being sercastic tae craig min, ficking hard kenning we oot spiken tae folk.

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