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At low speed, and over any little hole/bump, I get a metal on metal clunking noise from what I think is my front drivers side. Thinking it's the shockers as the whole of the front end has been checked with the drop links/arb's etc all ok.

With my Eibach springs the ride is bumpy enough so don't want coilovers etc.

If the oem shocks are duff...what do I go for?

Cheers

Richie your problem is probably related to your eibach springs these seem really prone to clunking of the spring coils. Do you have the spring coil covers on them. The subaru problem seems to be pretty much confined to the rear shocks the fronts dont seem as unreliable. I was going to replace my springs with eibachs a while back but didnt bother due to the number of people complaining about clunking after changing to the eibachs. The suposed fix is to put a rubber coils round the spring coils to stop the metal clunks as the coils touch. Thats the explanation I got anyway but I wouldnt have expected the coils to be compressing enough under normal driving to start bottoming against each other

Def rear shocks had the same issue on my 55 plate wrx. Exact same symptoms. The shocks are known to fail and are not the best quality. If the cars still under warranty you will get them done no problem if not then oem replacements is probably not the way to go. If you open the boot and sit on the boot opening and push down to rock the rear of the car you will prob be able to reproduce it

Welcome to the standard shocks are crap club

I have a radiator in good condition if you want it. I work down at the airport and am working Tue night. Looking for £50.

Looking good geo how easy did your rear hub bushes go in.

Hello all again firstly Happy New year, had a classic a few years ago sold it and now im back in the scooby fold with a classic wagon, just could not keep away. I need som help though any one point me in the direction of schematics of the from suspension i have a knock and i suspect it a worn bush on the main lower arm linkage, i need the part No to order new.

cheers all.

Drop cusco kid a PM and get a pair of whiteline bushes it will prob be around the same price but much better quality

lots of the above

Gearbox, front and centre diffs are all housed in the gearbox case so same oil feeds all

Hey Don at least they wont wear to quick if they are the hard compound

Geo

How do they compare on price to pirtek

It would need to a HUGE chib since its the very top of the seat; I spose you could say the back of the head rest So less o yer cheek or ye'll see my chib ya ba$$ - LOL

The got ripped when we were taking them out of storage, ho hum! I really dunno if I am going to keep them, my upper back has a stabbing pain in it at preset due to a prolapsed disc, and sitting in the position that those seats have, it really aggrivates it. I can feel tingling and pain when driving, not much use. If I could find a way of tilting them back, it would be perfect, but ...

Now not to be one to say i told you so but the subframes i posted the links to on scoobynet have height adjustment and the ability to tilt them back and forward dependant on what holes are used.

each to their own I suppose but I personally wouldnt have them in a road car purely for comfort and ease of use.

Those wheels are nice John could do with a clean though

Not really practical in a road car. Why not just swap the seats when you do track days it is only an hours work. That set up will get on your nerves after a while.

A PC680 is not an icle wee one John - I have a 545 in the RX I do only get 3 shots at starting the 5.7l V8 on it before the battery is dead

Personally I wouldn't recommend anything less than a redtop 35, or equivalent on a genuine road car. With a track/race car you are generally going to be starting it within walking distance of a car with a proper battery and jump leads, not a luxury you always have in a road car. The 545 has upset me more than once this year with it's (lack of) cranking power, am giving serious consideration to wiring in a second battery for next year that I can use on the road (and remove leaving just the 545 on track).

No one can make a guarantee about being able to start a particular after 2-3 weeks as it depends on the car in question. I had an EnerSys in my old RX that would start the car after it had been sitting for 6 months as there was no alarm/tracker causing a constant drain (really rated that battery, possibly my best mod on the car). Like wise my current RX can start off the 545 after 3 weeks of sitting as there is no drain/bad earthing. On the other hand both my scoobs have had Clifford alarms with Trackers and have wiped out full size batteries inside 2 weeks, the Williams gets about 3 months before the factory power sapping features drain the factory battery.

Pretty much all of the race orientated batteries have tiny screw fittings, rather than full sized lumps to clip your wiring onto. As such you have to trim the factory wiring back and put on new fittings. It is possible to get adapters that screw into the small batteries allowing you to use the factory connectors, but I can't remember where I saw these (have a vague recollection they were not cheap and, at the time, only available from the US).

I have one fitted to my RA and it was used on the road for 6 months with periods of 1 -2 weeks of inactivity and had no issues at all with it. It has held charge well and I have never had to recharge it off the car or jump start it. That said I disconnect the battery when not in use to ensure there is no current drain on the battery. If you have a tracker or after market alarm fitted you may have issues if the car is left standing for a prolonged period. The odyssey batteries come with an optional set of round posts which screw straight to the battery using the fittings provided which are all pretty good quality. This allows direct fitment of the standard battery cables and connectors so there is no need at all to mess with the wiring if you dont want to. From memory I think the extra posts were about £5. I got mine through a scoobynet groupbuy run by Bob5.

They did seem a bit ignorant TBH. I never got much response on SN - waste of time that was, ha!

Did you see the reply i sent

Righto, going to take the plunge! Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help

EDIT: Got them direct from their website which was £40 cheaper than their eBay site. I hope they work.

oops looks like it may have been wasted effort finding the info for you

I was going to use them for some roll cage attachment parts and found them ignorant and unhelpful. I would never spend any of my pennies with them.

Did you get my response over on Scoobynet ref options for your seats. Might be worth a look if you havn't already

gym dickson gets his tyres from the wholesalers in bellshill forget he number give them a try first

The number for the wholesaler would be handy

I have always found dialaphone and onestopphoneshop the cheapest.

I had to laugh i seen a sony ericsson C905 being sold on scoobynet for I think it was £270.

You can go to dialaphone and get a C905 on O2 admitedly on an 18 month contract but effective monthly payment is £26. Multiply that by 18 and it equals £468 but that gives you 600 minutes to any network and either unlimeted texts or 1000 texts and unlimited O2 to O2 calls.

Now if over the next 18 monyths you went pay as you go and only put £10 on your phone then it would work out roughly the same (270 + 180 =£450) but if you used the allowance on the contract it works out much cheaper.

It just seems that if you want a top of the range phone a contract is better if you are happy with a basic older phone then a contract is probably a bad idea. Well thats how i look at it anyway.

New age silver STI Show case cinema with a shady looking character just before midnight tonight

DS 2500.

Grieg

Think you need to decide which way you want to go. If you want to stick with the RA ratio's then buy an RA box. If you dont then the offer of one of my boxes stands. The one John mentioned which is effectively a UK 754 box but in a 752 casing is the one which I would sell first. Purely as this was my spare box and is set up ready to go and I know is good, this is basically identical to the box I used last year appart from the case which is irrelevant. The one in the car which done so well for me last year is fine but I would not sell it without checking everything is OK with it. I also have a gearbox and shafts form a 2006 2.5 WRX but I would be looking for decent money for it to sell it at this stage.

What John said

Grieg

I have an almost new standard one you can have for a lot less if you want ?

ah arch how goes it car comeing along ok?

how much ma looking at from you would i need anything else or will this box just go straight in and match up to my existing diffs?

Cheers Greig

Greig

PM John he knows the boxes I have and what diffs you have and he would be best to advise but from memory all my boxes are UK ratio's with 3.9 rear diff's. I have a few options that would vary in cost one which may be perfect if your uping your power but I think we would need to chat about that. I dont think I have a spare 3.9 diff but John may well have.