Building a fast B-Road car

[STi_Bandit]

Needing a little bit of advise on what parts would be needed on building a fast b-road car, this also means a car with the minium most amount of lag possible and bags and bags of low down torque. So what are the best ways to get low down torque out of these cars ive already decided on porting my orginal headers. but what else could i do.

Bandit
 

[FastScooby]

Bigger boots.. with extra weight in the right one []

[colin_ross]

Whats your base, the 04 sti?

[STi_Bandit]

Yup 2004 STi Type UK, Non PPP car. But if there is anything else to up torque other than asking Mr F to map the car for torque, however i hear the 18g turbos are good for mapping for low down power and strong mid range rather the 20g's

Ive a list so far of

1. Walbro fuel pump

2. 3-Port Boost solenoid

3. 2.5" or 3" exhaust (i hear 2.5 is better for torque)

4. APS 70mm CAI (Purley for noise) 

5. Ported Headers and Custom Upipe 

[wrxmania]

1. Walbro fuel pump

2. 3-Port Boost solenoid

3. 2.5" or 3" exhaust (i hear 2.5 is better for torque)

4. APS 70mm CAI (Purley for noise) 

5. Ported Headers and Custom Upipe 

6. REMAP

7. BRAKE UPGRADE

 

[colin_ross]

Yup, 18G is meant to be the best b road turbo, or one of them at leasr. Slightly less top end but better throttle response.

1. Walbro fuel pump

2. 3-Port Boost solenoid

3. 2.5" or 3" exhaust (i hear 2.5 is better for torque)

4. APS 70mm CAI (Purley for noise) 

5. Ported Headers and Custom Upipe 

6. REMAP

7. BRAKE UPGRADE

8. Uprated arb, drop links and 4 wheel allignment

 

[gus the bus]

Bigger boots.. with extra weight in the right one []

FPMSL a good start right enough[]

Suspension! Whiteline droplinks, Anti roll (sway) bars, anti lift kit, steering rack bushes and other suspension stuff to make sure it feels right and tight and can be thrown around the B's.

[david_taylor]

Needing a little bit of advise on what parts would be needed on building a fast b-road car, this also means a car with the minium most amount of lag possible and bags and bags of low down torque. So what are the best ways to get low down torque out of these cars ive already decided on porting my orginal headers. but what else could i do.

Bandit

 

Martin

I have seen you on Knockhill, you sure you need a fast car??  ha ha[]

[col666]

I was thinking the same[]

[thewelsho]

Needing a little bit of advise on what parts would be needed on building a fast b-road car, this also means a car with the minium most amount of lag possible and bags and bags of low down torque. So what are the best ways to get low down torque out of these cars ive already decided on porting my orginal headers. but what else could i do.

Bandit

 

Martin

I have seen you on Knockhill, you sure you need a fast car??  ha ha[]

LOL

[cusco kid]

The first thing you do is sort out handling and brakes mod them and you will be faster a-to-b power on earlier brake later  the formula is childs play then mod engine / geo / i forgot... learn some driving skills from an expert

[sma01]

Think the best way to start it would be to get the brakes and suspension done, if i was going to do it again i'd have got the AP's and the coilovers a lot sooner....

 

Scott

[cusco kid]

i agree about the brakes but there is a lot of work to be done on the suspenson before splashing out on coil overs /most guys fit c/overs and dont no what rate the springs are or bump or rebound settings they have  suspension tunning is an art sometimes a black art you can spend thousands and ending up with a car that handles worse/ the more loading you put into the body shell the more flexing you encounter  results in bad handling and top mount failure  thats why when you build a rally or race car you start with bodyshell uprating -seam welding - full cage/ good idea to fit front and rear strut braces  on your road car (cheap alternative)  geo

[sma01]

i modified most of the suspension at the same time, put front and rear bars on, anti lift kit and front and rear links,strut braces, along with the adjustable teins and  find the car handles much better, wasnt just a case of fitting the coilovers, spent a fair bit if time trying to find the right setting, a lot of that down to the hard work of Dunc @ hypertech - we spent a good bit of time getting the right set up for the car, but now its done the car handles much better than it did before...

 everyone will have their own opinion on the way to go and its all going to be restricted by budget at the end of the day cos a lot of the stuff these days doesnt come cheap...

scott

[sma01]

anyone got any views on bandits comment re: exhaust sizes??  i would have thought that the 3" would have been a better option as there would be less back pressure than on a 2.5" system??

 

scott

[fai17]

anyone got any views on bandits comment re: exhaust sizes??  i would have thought that the 3" would have been a better option as there would be less back pressure than on a 2.5" system??

 

scott

That would depend on the turbo setup but for you and i 3 inch will be alot better.

As for the VF35 turbo...i would still use a 3 inch system as you never know if you are going to upgrade your turbo which then means your 2.5inch would be useless then.Spend it once and buy the right thing.[]

[WUZ]

Up to around the 360 mark the 2.5" DP would be better for the car as an all pound package but abov ethis the 2.5" system starts to choke the top end ability of the turbo it's bolted onto. VF35 is at its peak around here and so for a VF35, I'd stick with a 2.5" reduced DP but fit a 3" system so that if you want to upgrade the turbo. you'll only need a new DP.

Please also remember that the 3" DP will impede the spoolup and" fun factor" of the VF35 (P15 housing) so choose carefully!

Russell