scientific steve Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 posted this in the technical bit but thought i may get more responce here chaps, i need some help MY98 type r with a full decat and dump valve in the last few days it has started to hesitate a bit about the 2500-3000 rpm mark and after that it clears, revs drop when coming to a stop but goes back to normal have just checked the fault code coming up is 24 = Idle air control solenoid but after doing a search on here i was thinking i could be the MAF any ideas cheers steve Link to comment
st3ph3n Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I certainly can't claim to be an expert, but have you checked to see if the DV is leaking boost? Is your boost pressure peaking at the same point (if you have a gauge that you can look at)? Link to comment
scientific steve Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 not yet, am getting a set of gauges fitted soon the dump valve was a recent fitment, so is still new but will check the hoses and clips to see if tight Link to comment
RS Grant Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Its worth checking all the pipes, etc. But, I would go with it being a fecked MAF mate... Sounds similar to the problems me and my friends have had on our MY99's in the past. Cheers, Grant Link to comment
scientific steve Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 that's what i was thinking but was a confused by the fault code Link to comment
scientific steve Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 booked into see the chaps at AWD on fri over the phone prognosis = MAF, lamda sensor or idle air solenoid or all three cant wait Link to comment
wilky Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Okay, its one of the following me thinks, 1. MAF is knackered, this can be cleaned with brake cleaner, look up a thread about cleaning it on scoobynet. If cleaning it doesnt sort it, try a borrowed working one. 2. Type Rs are notorious for lunching thier ignition leads. I dont know why, but Colin Greer replaces every type r set he sees. Check them once again with a borrowed set to eliminate them. 3. check your plugs, they could be fecked. I doubt the DV is causing it as you would see boost loss if it was leaking. If these tests dont eliminate it PM me and we will go a bit further. Callum W Link to comment
colinj Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 I once got told to disconnect the maf when the cars at idle - if its fubar the car should splutter to a hault. If it keeps running the maf is your problem!! ^^Dont hold me to that though....im just passing the info along!! Link to comment
the squiggle Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 If it showing a code 24 then it wont be the maf, lambda or flux capacitor, it will be the idle air control solenoid, funnily enough The super smart diagnostic system has detected that the output of the idle air control solenoid has fallen outwith perameters enough for the ECU to trigger a fault code 24 Is the CEL on all the time, if this is the case then the fault is current and the component will need changed over asap. If the CEL is not on when driving then the fault has been logged as historical Reset the ECU and if the CEL flashes steadily within say 50yds of driving then the component neads a good clean out in the coolant feed area. If the CEL takes a couple of miles to illuminate then the component is guffed and will need replaced If there were multiple codes at the same time then you diagnose and repair the lowest code first and this can in turn deactivate the higher codes but Steve has only mentioned a single code 24 Grant Link to comment
wilky Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Okay cheers Grant, you encyclopedia, now lets have that again in plain english for us minians!! Link to comment
st3ph3n Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Does it hurt knowing that much Grant? Link to comment
the squiggle Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 << Does it hurt knowing that much Grant? >> Yes it does hurt, no honostly it does Apparently i seep Subaru fluid out of my earlugs during nocturnal hours Grant Link to comment
the squiggle Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 each sensor has its own code the code that flashed up is 24 and that is the code for the idle air control solenoid if the CEL is permanantly lit then the fault is currently active if the code flashes up when the black connectors under the dash are connected then the fault is historical reset the ECU and if the CEL flashes steadily after a short 50 yard drive then the fault is not currently active reset the ECU and if it takes forever and a day for the CEL to illuminate then the fault is currently active the ecu in the Subaru is a clever bit of kit in the self protection dept. if the ECU detects that a sensors output has fallen outwith a certain perameter then it will try to compensate using another sensor. If that fails then it will retard the igntiion, richen up the mixture, lower the boost pressure and if it thinks it still cannot opertate safely then it will go into Limp Home Mode and keep the CEL permantly on until the faulty component is fixed or replaced. is this clear enough or am i making it worse Grant Looking out for a laser dot on the wall Link to comment
fai17 Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 You are one big Scooby Nutter Grant ...The Great One. Link to comment
RS Grant Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I'd say you've forgotten more than a lot of people know about Subarus.... but I dont think your programming allows you to forget anything?! lol Cheers, Grant Link to comment
wilky Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 << each sensor has its own code the code that flashed up is 24 and that is the code for the idle air control solenoid if the CEL is permanantly lit then the fault is currently active if the code flashes up when the black connectors under the dash are connected then the fault is historical reset the ECU and if the CEL flashes steadily after a short 50 yard drive then the fault is not currently active reset the ECU and if it takes forever and a day for the CEL to illuminate then the fault is currently active the ecu in the Subaru is a clever bit of kit in the self protection dept. if the ECU detects that a sensors output has fallen outwith a certain perameter then it will try to compensate using another sensor. If that fails then it will retard the igntiion, richen up the mixture, lower the boost pressure and if it thinks it still cannot opertate safely then it will go into Limp Home Mode and keep the CEL permantly on until the faulty component is fixed or replaced. is this clear enough or am i making it worse Grant Looking out for a laser dot on the wall >> All that knowledge, and you couldnt put a nut in a monkeys mooth!! Link to comment
IanJ Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Grant, Are the codes the same on the Prodrive style cars? Ian Link to comment
scientific steve Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 cheers for the info chaps at the moment i am just in the door from a rarther good night out so things are still very fuzzy dont think i shall be trying anything with the car the day, prob just make things worse, plus still over the limit by the way wilky, the wing is lookin rarther nice , big thanks for that will let you know how i get on Link to comment
scientific steve Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 just back from AWD and guess what was the problem was ................ lamda so half an hour later and it's all fixed cars pulling like a good un now Link to comment
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