Joe G Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 3 per window. Same cops I had, drivin a Disco TD6. A lad on JDMTAS got 6pts last week for his back wheels sticking out past his body. Seems they are crackin down hard on modded cars as they aint after speeders in this weather. My mate got the same a few weeks back in aberdeen!! 6 points for the front windows being too dark! Harsh IMO!! Joe
supremeweb Posted December 14, 2010 Author Posted December 14, 2010 Just got a call from a mate who went to the cinema at union square and then got followed and pulled on market street/guild street. 3pts for front tints (very very light smoke) advisory for tyre and may have to do a MOT or vehicle test as he running no cat! Seems like grampian po po's latest money maker! IF YOU ARE RUNNING ANY TINT ON FRONT WINDOWS REMOVE IT! Seems I was VERY lucky!
RA Dunk Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 Seems I was VERY lucky! No sheite sherlock! you seem to have got the best out of a bad bunch by the looks of it, remember to shove a few quid on the lottery this weekend perhaps?
brianm Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 feck - need to pull mind off then....run them over two years and not been tugged yet.
brianm Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 now removed.....I least dont have to wind the window down to give someone the finger anymore! Although some slyness will now be required crusing down Union Street in the summer
davey l wrx Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 Hmmm not sure if i should remove mine or not... They've been on the car since i bought it 2 years ago. I've also been pulled a few times by different members of various constabulary's (mainly road side checks and once cos the PNC didn't match up) and the tints have never been mentioned!
rig-pig Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 Just got a call from a mate who went to the cinema at union square and then got followed and pulled on market street/guild street. 3pts for front tints (very very light smoke) advisory for tyre and may have to do a MOT or vehicle test as he running no cat! Seems like grampian po po's latest money maker! IF YOU ARE RUNNING ANY TINT ON FRONT WINDOWS REMOVE IT! Seems I was VERY lucky! thats cos there is no snow on the car roofs to fine you for
supremeweb Posted December 15, 2010 Author Posted December 15, 2010 thats cos there is no snow on the car roofs to fine you for So true!
andy_r Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 Think it's not 80 but 70% : Quick Google of construction and use on window tints threw up this which I confirmed the understanding that I already had. During the early part of 2004,Section 32 of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations have been amended to include "Window Tint Films" where such materials attached to the glass are capable of reducing the Visible Light Transmission of forward windows to below prescribed levels (70% VLT for windows forward of the 'B' Post). These changes took effect from 1st January 2004. Nicked some info from here : http://www.eclipse-performance.com/home-styling.asp?id1=31&id2=2 Above 30% VLT treated less harshly than below 30% (I guess that is up to the particular police officers at the time) I think that modern cars have tints that bring VLT down to close to 70% anyway so adding any additional after-market tint will almost certainly bring it to sub-70% levels. and the official line : http://www.dft.gov.uk/vosa/repository/Tinted%20Windows%20Oct%202008.pdf pre-1st April 1985 car = 70% VLT screen and front side 1st April 1985-on = 75%VLT screen, 70% front side.
supremeweb Posted February 19, 2011 Author Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) I had to rebuild my engine after it lost compression and refused to start when warm. This was a few months ago now and the engine has now been run in. This was my first engine rebuild, did a few things wrong, did a few right but learnt a LOT! Engine coming out Blaock halfs stripped painted and baked in the oven Block halfs put back together with all new ACL bearings, genuine gaskets and seals, newage rods, new rings and skimmed flywheel with new Exceedy clutch. Heads were stripped inspected and rebuilt with new valve seals. Valves seats were reground I made a basic holder to keep valves in the right order while they were cleaned I also took the oppertunity to port and polish the heads The intake manifold got ported but not polished and was treated to a new coat of paint. Fuel rails got chopped and I did the parallel fuel mod as I had purchased an Aeromotive FPR Engine going back together And the engine back in Started first time! But made a ticking noise, turned out I had managed to trap the thin inspection plate that is under the clutch between the block and the gearbox Straightened out the plate and refitted the engine. Started and drove well! But it was leaking oil, after a fair bit of shouting and peering around the engine bay I found where it was coming from! Had to take the engine out again as oil was leeking from behind the clutch. It was the plastic plate. This got replaced and I dropped the engine in again. So with all this practice I am pretty quick at getting the engine in/out now! Edited February 19, 2011 by supremeweb
supremeweb Posted February 19, 2011 Author Posted February 19, 2011 (edited) Over the last few weeks I have been working on the interior of the car removing as much as possible. All carpet and trim has been removed as well as sound deadening that had been added to the doors. The doors will be replaced with either carbon or fiberglass when I get it caged. Dash removed to get to the heater and a/c parts. Fair bit of weight when you add it all up. I then had to decide on dash, I made a mould of the origional one and started to plan my additions/changes. Initial plan was to make the whole thing from fiberglass and then have it flocked. The first one I made looked good but needed many strengthening changes to be made and lots of additional supports to be added. Its total weight was just too much. I then took a look at the origional dash, I removed its foamy pleathery coating and was left with a quite light base to work with. I made some modifications to this and added a recessed screen holder for my touch screen. The plan is to eventually have two large screens on the left and a smaller one on the right. These will display live engine data, maps, itunes, shift lights or anything else I need/program. Going to crinkle coat it matt black so I can respray it if I make any changes later down the line. While I was removing the sound deadening I noticed my ECU says "mines" on it, can anyone shed any light on this. Is this an upgrade? Edited February 19, 2011 by supremeweb
supremeweb Posted February 21, 2011 Author Posted February 21, 2011 Had some free time today so decided to make a bracket to hold the computer in place and work out the wiring for the UPS (uninteruptable power supply). I also had a look into relocating the main battery to the boot. Think I will make a custom loom for the engine bay from 300A 2gauge wiring and a 3way distribution block. Anyone else done this? Hope to get the dash finished and painted this week so I can test out the computer. Here are some pics for now:
ciaranrb5 Posted February 21, 2011 Posted February 21, 2011 Had some free time today so decided to make a bracket to hold the computer in place and work out the wiring for the UPS (uninteruptable power supply). I also had a look into relocating the main battery to the boot. Think I will make a custom loom for the engine bay from 300A 2gauge wiring and a 3way distribution block. Anyone else done this? Hope to get the dash finished and painted this week so I can test out the computer. Here are some pics for now: Looking good. Whats the need for UPS in a car and does the car battery not already sufficiant?
supremeweb Posted February 21, 2011 Author Posted February 21, 2011 The UPS is connected to a small 12v SLA battery and takes a power feed from the cars battery. If I turn on the car computer without the engine on the UPS senses that the input voltage is less than 13v so uses the smaller battery to power the computer. Once the car is started it senses the voltage is above 13v so runs from the car battery and charges the SLA battery. What makes it really trick is I have set it up to start up when the cars ignition is on and then if the cars ignition is switched off the computer will go into standby mode. It will stay in standby mode for 15 minutes, if you return and turn the ignition back on it will wake up, if you are longer than 15 minutes it will do a full shut down. If the ignition is off and the SLA battery is lower than 10.5 volts the car computer will also shut down. The cars battery is not sufficient as just a few start/stops around town is enough to cause issues. When testing this I had to carry a spare battery and jump leads.
euan_r Posted February 21, 2011 Posted February 21, 2011 The mines sticker means the ecu has had a chip added in japan and one resistor cut inside to bypass original mapping. Easy to reverse if you wanted too. Have a search on scoobynet, apparently even running 99 ron is not sufficient.
supremeweb Posted February 22, 2011 Author Posted February 22, 2011 The mines sticker means the ecu has had a chip added in japan and one resistor cut inside to bypass original mapping. Easy to reverse if you wanted too. Have a search on scoobynet, apparently even running 99 ron is not sufficient. I find many people saying that it can be reversed but no definative instructions or reasons. I think I will reverse it or get another ecu(anyone got one?). Might explain the overfueling and high emissions. Spent tonight sanding down my dash and using a little bit of bondo on the low bits. Will do a bit more work on that tomorrow and hopefully get it ready for a test fit. Carl Davey popped over tonight with a set of injector seals and spacers as I had lost one of the spacers that sit below the filter. Got that fitted and topped up fluids ready for a test start tomorrow. Had another look at the wiring and decided its probably best to put the battery in the boot now. I have some 4guage audio cable but need to check if its up to the job before I go any further. Research time!
euan_r Posted February 22, 2011 Posted February 22, 2011 The chip will pull out and the resistor will be obvious as its not one of those tiny surface mount blighters.
supremeweb Posted March 6, 2011 Author Posted March 6, 2011 Had a look last week and cant see any cut resistor and there is a space where a chip could go. Leads me to think that it is a mines ECU. Anyway, I have decided on the replacement ECU now and will be going with a link G4 Extreme. Its spec list is quite complete and it can be used on pretty much any engine with up to 8 cylinders and 16 injectors! Time to do some shopping around, will need to get some injectors, wide band lambda bosch knock sensor and MAP sensor at the same time. Spent this week relocating the battery and water bottle to the boot, used 0 Gauge wire just to be sure. Did a test fit and all works well. Now just need to paint up the custom brackets I made and wait until the boot is painted to mount it all permanantly. Today I removed all of the sound deadening in the rear half of the car in super quick time. I also gave the car new oil and filter. I think something is up though as it looks like I have oil coming through to the exhaust. Makes me think I have either a goosed turbo or leaking stem seals. Will nip the turbo off this week and take a peek. I am looking for another set of heads to get ready for my next engine build also need a CDB so if anyone has either please let me know.
supremeweb Posted March 7, 2011 Author Posted March 7, 2011 After a quick look this morning I think that its just over fueling! Phew! Did not want to have to take the heads off at this point as I want to get stuck in with my new build.
supremeweb Posted March 7, 2011 Author Posted March 7, 2011 told you! It was just because there was so much soot yesterday it looked like oil. I panicked! I wont doubt you again lol :occasion14: :occasion14:
lewisscoob Posted March 7, 2011 Posted March 7, 2011 So will your self mapping sort out the overfuelling? I am planning to do some mods on the car later this week (providing it passes its MoT! Cant wait! Oh and be ready for a phonecall of help to get the tubby out!
supremeweb Posted March 7, 2011 Author Posted March 7, 2011 Mapping will sort it once I have a wide band and new ECU fitted. I am quite confident about the whole Link ECU thing. However, I am looking to get someone up to check the map (or remap if required). Oh and be ready for a phonecall of help to get the tubby out! - what? I don't understand?
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