ryan_gwa Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 What are you doing about all the drain holes underneath the sound deadning? Im at your stage except a roll cage isnt in and I wasnt sure wether to weld them over?
mk1cos Posted December 21, 2009 Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) i would have removed the wiring before welding the cage!! sparks would just melt through wiring = wiring headache when i fit these cages everything is removed from the interior,so no accidents if anyone wants a price for fitting or supply and fitting of thses custom cages then drop me a pm Edited December 21, 2009 by mk1cos
cullenmin Posted December 21, 2009 Author Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) i would have removed the wiring before welding the cage!! sparks would just melt through wiring = wiring headachewhen i fit these cages everything is removed from the interior,so no accidents if anyone wants a price for fitting or supply and fitting of thses custom cages then drop me a pm Hello mate, are you an independant cage fitter or associated with a garage (just out of interest), any examples of your work? Point noted about wiring, i'll be talking to AWD tomorrow anyway so i'll ensure they are covering up the wiring whilst welding. Cheers Rich edit - Ryan I am using a metal foil tape at the moment which works but is not permanent. There is the option of bungs or grommets but ideally they could be welded as said above. Edited December 21, 2009 by Cullenmin
mk1cos Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) hi mate i am self employed as a welder, mig, tig ,steel or ally work with sw motorsport on customers cars,fabricating pipework and we also do front entry inlet manifolds, (see bravehearts car or wilkys car,steves car and my own cars) will put pics up soon of some of the cages that i have fitted to customers cars cheers BARFAB WELDING SW MOTORSPORT Edited December 22, 2009 by mk1cos
ryan_gwa Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 edit - Ryan I am using a metal foil tape at the moment which works but is not permanent. There is the option of bungs or grommets but ideally they could be welded as said above. Some of the holes have metal bungs in them, but I found they got mangled by my air-chisel. The only way I found was do the above and cut mild steel into a similar shape and weld. Not always the prettiest but the seats and paint covers most. All for go and not for show, I suppose.
scooby222 Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 (edited) saw it in the flesh today Rich and its looking awesome,thats a seriously heavy duty cage!! question is can you guess which pipe i put the kipper in..... and are you getting heated seats and steering wheel to go with the windscreen, ya softy!! Edited December 22, 2009 by scooby222
cullenmin Posted December 22, 2009 Author Posted December 22, 2009 saw it in the flesh today Rich and its looking awesome,thats a seriously heavy duty cage!! question is can you guess which pipe i put the kipper in..... and are you getting heated seats and steering wheel to go with the windscreen, ya softy!! Cheers min, looks a mess just now but will be smart when its all finished. The cage is a beast, safety first and all. Heated seats = heavy. And thats the opposite of what I am trying to achieve here so I'll kipper yi
cullenmin Posted January 5, 2010 Author Posted January 5, 2010 I'm looking at getting some harnesses. Not more than £150 each. Can anyone point me in the right direction or show me some that are suitable for me that attach to the rear of the roll cage? Cheers Rich
rallyfever Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 (edited) I'm looking at getting some harnesses. Not more than £150 each.Can anyone point me in the right direction or show me some that are suitable for me that attach to the rear of the roll cage? Cheers Rich Hi Rich, I had Scroth 6-point harnesses in the rally car and they were cracking, Sparco you can't go much wrong with either to be fair. If you can stretch the budget a little these are the ones I would go for http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=SSP20012. You will also need eye bolt plates for the lap and crotch straps to hook onto http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=SSP00040 and some reinforcement plates http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...;pcode=SSP00080, I would recommend 4 of each for the 6-point harness, the 2 for the shoulders are secured around the rollcage and do not require them. If you can't fit them to the cage for any reason remember to order 6 of each as these can also be fitted to the base of the car. You may get them cheaper on the web if you have a look, but at least this gives you an idea of what you need fella. Happy building bud Gary Edited January 5, 2010 by rallyfever
braveheart Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Its an expensive hobby sure enough 20,000 and the rest lol especially when you change all again, thats from expeirence do it right the first time Rich, i cant say anything really as im changing again for more power.. are you ever happy what you have i hopefully will be this time keep the pics coming Rich as for mk1cos his work is at a very high standard and i would recomend him..what sort of engine mods you going for Rich twisted set up, 2.1 2.3.2.5 if the pennies are available i would say the 2.33 thats my oppinion tho best of luck what ever you do
ciaranrb5 Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 Is the cage not finished yet rich? My MOT runs out next month so it been decided the car is coming off the road then getting stripped, cage fitted, few personal body modifications and then full respray. I then have to save up for all the parts which make the car move
cullenmin Posted January 5, 2010 Author Posted January 5, 2010 Thanks Gary, I have been looking at demon tweeks. I'm sure they used to do a 10% discount on sidc members, wonder if thats still the case!?! That harness looks good but trying not to spend unnecessarily. best of luck what ever you do Thanks mate, built engine will come in the future. I'm going to learn how to drive it fast first Is the cage not finished yet rich?My MOT runs out next month so it been decided the car is coming off the road then getting stripped, cage fitted, few personal body modifications and then full respray. I then have to save up for all the parts which make the car move Not yet, some people don't work over the festives unlike us oil & gas minions. Good plan for yours, get the project started Rich
arch Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 What are you doing about all the drain holes underneath the sound deadning? Im at your stage except a roll cage isnt in and I wasnt sure wether to weld them over? I went for the asy light option some ally cut shaped and riveted on using windscreen sealer to wet assemble to ensure it seals Cars looking good, must be costing a fortune in labour tho
mk1cos Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 20,000 and the rest lol especially when you change all again, thats from expeirence do it right the first time Rich, i cant say anything really as im changing again for more power.. are you ever happy what you have i hopefully will be this time keep the pics coming Rich as for mk1cos his work is at a very high standard and i would recomend him..what sort of engine mods you going for Rich twisted set up, 2.1 2.3.2.5 if the pennies are available i would say the 2.33 thats my oppinion tho best of luck what ever you do cheers chris
rallyfever Posted January 5, 2010 Posted January 5, 2010 (edited) Hi Rich, I am sure they still give the 10% discount to us, not bought from them for a while after selling both STi's last year - give them a bash anyway. All I would say on the not spending unnecessarily part is get what you want and need - not just what you need. I bought loads for the rally car, only to go out a few months later and pay the real money to get the best parts I should have bought in the first place - false economy I think it's called. One example would be the suspension, bought AVO coilovers as I needed coilovers, price - £1,800, 3 months later bought what I wanted and needed, Proflex 3-way - £3,500 and sold the AVO's for £1,000. Net cost of Proflex = £4,300.........................£800 doon the drain!!!!! IF YER GONNA DO IT FELLA...................DO IT RIGHT. MUCH EASIER TO SELL WITH THE RIGHT BITS ON IN THE FUTURE!!!! My rally car sold as it had the right engine, gearbox and suspension. Set it apart from a fast road car that has minimal bits on that qualifies it as a rally car. Good luck fella, any other questions - jusr fire away. Cheers Gary Edited January 5, 2010 by rallyfever
ciaranrb5 Posted January 6, 2010 Posted January 6, 2010 Not yet, some people don't work over the festives unlike us oil & gas minions. Good plan for yours, get the project started Rich I was off from the 24th still am untill the 20th I want a gander when it's all finished. You have plenty power already I was in a mates stripped out standard uk the other day and it is so much faster and louder by just ripping out the seats door cards etc
cullenmin Posted January 6, 2010 Author Posted January 6, 2010 I want a gander when it's all finished. No problem
scooby222 Posted January 7, 2010 Posted January 7, 2010 (edited) you free in 2015 ciaran? Edited January 7, 2010 by scooby222
thefastone Posted January 7, 2010 Posted January 7, 2010 you free in 2015 ciaran? What, do you think that It'll be that soon!
mk1cos Posted January 14, 2010 Posted January 14, 2010 hows the project coming along? is the cage finished yet
sti_steve Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 Any updates, Rich? - Things in the pipeline?
cullenmin Posted January 21, 2010 Author Posted January 21, 2010 No updates but havnt been thinking about it at the moment tbh. I'll see what AWD says tomorrow. I do have a nice steering wheel and boss kit sitting here for it though Rich
scooby222 Posted January 21, 2010 Posted January 21, 2010 you ringing them or through the morrow min?
cullenmin Posted January 28, 2010 Author Posted January 28, 2010 Wee update: The cage has been fully welded up and looks to be done quite well, few pics off my phone... I'll be prepping the car on monday/tuesday for painting the floor and cage. The dash is going to be trimmed this week to suit the cage. Still need to source some harnesses. Anyone got any tips for removing the residual sound deadening on the floor? Rich
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