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Track Car Project Thread - Eventually


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Posted

A lot of work going on there Arch, hat of to you my friend love to have your knowledge and as handy as the with the spanners. Have you got time to work lol a very dedicated individual here well done look forward to the end pics.

Chris

Thanks chris I almost said that i would swap places with you and have Steve do my car but then I had a think about your choice of career and decided to stick with working in the pissing rain at Glasgow Airport :icon_salut:

Posted

No I have a fair selecton of UJ's and the option to cut and shut the newage and classic UJ's has been there all the time and one I knew about before I went down this route, that is the fall back position, I have just chosen another option for a few reasons. The spacing I refered to was the mounting points on the dash bar its not just a bolt on affair it needs a little mod to the mounting points which is a 20 min job. Looking at the lengths of the columns and the UJ's the overall lengths are the same.

Hawkeye quick rack arrived today but just like buses I may have another on its way so will prob have a newage 2.25 turn rack for sale soon.

Ah, i got you. Let me know how it turns out. a wee pic of the mod would be good too.

Cheers, Johnny.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well it seems longer than 3 weeks since i have updated this although I feel as if its one step forward and 3 steps back at the minute.

The cage is now in. Huge thanks to Kenny for a 14 hour stint welding the various brackets, of which there are many. I must admit to being very pleased with the way it has turned out. It is by no means a bolt in cage and there is a fair amount of work needed to mock up and weld the various brackets. The main floor brackets are pretty simple but the other ones for the roof bar and front leg section need to be spot on so it takes ages to measure, mark, bolt everything up, check again then remove and weld etc etc. The section that goes through to the strut top is very awkward as it involves bolting two brackets together one between the strut top and the bulknead and one in the wheel well, matching the holes up was a nightmare as was fitting the link bars through but in the end well worth while. The rear section is one piece and was NOT easy to get in the car so once in it didnt come out so we welded around it.

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At the same time the cage was going in it seemed logical to rub down and paint the inside to freshen it up. Nothing Gucci but functionally clean. Also plated over the holes left from the old cage.

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The one problem i didnt think about was the horizontal hole for the section mounted to the tunnel, it goes into a box section so I couldnt get to the back of it. If I had thought about it I would have just got kenny to weld the section on instead of leaving it as a bolt on. To get to the box section it meant taking the diff back out and removing the t-cradle and then cutting an acess hole to get a bolt through, ah well lesson learned but all done now and hole patched over.

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Well thats pretty much the progress. I had a look at the diff flange today before removing it and noticed the holes didnt line up with the prop, no problem thinks me its obviously the usual PCD problem, although I was a bit confused as this diff was used with a six speed box, anyway i think to myself I will just redrill it like I have done twice before with previous diffs. But after marking it up its now obvious that the diff flange is to small to allow the prop to fit so quick call to my advisor and yep there seems to be two sizes of diff flange and I need the bigger one no shocks there - deep joy so diff now needs to stay out until I can get a flange.

I had also planned to fit a newage STI servo but after trying to fit that, it became obvious that square pegs do not fit in round holes so back on with the old servo. Anyone need a newage Blobeye STI servo and master cylinder lol.

Well newage quick rack is fitted, column now mates with the rack and the steering wheel boss I have fits perfectly so just need a little welding to extend the mounting plate and its good to fit.

Started mocking up the fuel set up in the boot which is proving to be a challenge as I want to be able to fit the pumps and flilters but have it all plumbed in such a way that i can swap the small tank and the large tank by only undoing the two feed unions and the return and vent. Think I have sussed it but it wont be as neat as I wanted and wont be symetrical but hey function over asthetics. Just need to get the post pump filters and I can make up the pipework and get this part finished.

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Few more whiteline goodies arrived, needed a new roll centre kit as the other set was tired and also needed new drop links because the arms I now have use a standard drop link, so not much suspension wise on the car now that isnt whiteline - thanks for the help with this Graeme.

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Few other bits arrived which will need sorting at some point including some weld in seat rails.

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Now that its out I am now looking at finding the best route, within time limits, to do away with the T-cradle for the rear diff. The main reason for this is to make some space to take a side exit exhaust out just where the t-cradle bolts to the chassis. I cant see any other easy route to getting an exhaust out the side.

I had a look on the underside today at the possibilty of triangulating some roll cage tube across the chassis legs bit not convinced this is the best route. The other plan was to attach a couple of weld on saddle clamps to the roll cage. Need to find some use for the 18 metres of 38 x 2.5 MSA spec roll cage tube i have lol.

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Then drop two bars down to a form a new mount for the diff. I know this is how several others have done it so prob go with this route. Would be interested to see any pics of how others have done it tho.

Had these arrive the other day but not sure when they will be used at this rate.

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And thats pretty much it, so way behind where i need to be but hey plodding on.

Posted

Looking very smart. Are you aiming for Doune next month?

No chance of making it unfortunately John just to much to do and not prepared to cut corners this time. Target now is Kames in May then Golspie in June.

Posted

Thanks appreciate the comments but way way behing where I had hoped to be but hey such is life.

Next main items are to get the fuel instal done in the boot and get the engine in and start seeing what needs changed in terms of pipework.

Neil message on its way.

Posted

OMG fantastic thread Arch, wish I had read this earlier I bet that box of goodies you were gonna donate to me with the Rear Brakes etc would have been well worth it... DAMN....:icon_hang:

Car is looking great hope she brings you some good results this year.. ;)

Posted

OMG fantastic thread Arch, wish I had read this earlier I bet that box of goodies you were gonna donate to me with the Rear Brakes etc would have been well worth it... DAMN....:icon_hang:

Car is looking great hope she brings you some good results this year.. ;)

LOL you could say you made a small error in judgement lol.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Well it’s been a few weeks since I updated the thread.

I have made some progress but given the hours I have put in the car is nowhere near where it needs to be. Progress has been slow and very very frustrating; I have never come across so many compatibility issues as I have this year round.

The engine is eventually in so I am in the process of mocking things up to see what has changed and try and work out what I need parts wise and what can be reused. I have been pleasantly surprised by how much bonnet clearance I have, this will allow me to raise the inlet manifold which helps with clearance of the turbo compressor output pipe work as it runs under the manifold.

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Also decided to uprate the engine mounts. Had been looking at these for a while so decided to get a set from Kev at Scoobyclinic. Very well made and should be a good bit stiffer than the hardrace ones, to be fair the hardrace ones are very good and for the limited time they were fitted they worked very well. I wont be using the 5 speed gearbox mount that came as part of the kit so will prob have it and the hardrace engine mounts for sale.

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I have also just about completed the fuel set up in the boot just got a couple of pipes to make up and then bolt everything down and that’s done. Will then look to sort the front. I have already fitted the hard pipes back in and have 3 of the 8mm pipes, 2 feeds one return. AN fittings also fitted to both ends of the hard pipes. All the pipework at the rear changed to Teflon. Big thanks to Alex from Torques for all his help wih the fuel side of things.

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Mock up with small tank

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And with the big tank

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Front suspension and brakes now complete, just new pads required and bleed the brakes.

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Rear suspension almost complete. Just need to sort out a rear diff carrier, which is causing an issue due to my inability to weld so that is becoming a stumbling block.

I have hopefully sorted my prop issue by having a local company change the UJ at one end so should have that back on Tue, another expense I could have done without but hey there’s no legislating for Subaru's ability to change things from year to year.

I also got lucky when I found Adam from T6 customs.

http://www.t6customs.webeden.co.uk

I asked Adam to airbrush a saltire onto my cam covers and was a happy bunny when these arrived the other day. The quality of the work is superb the pictures do not do the covers justice. Will get some more pics of these once they are on the car.

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Lots still to do before the car is anywhere neat ready so becoming concerned time wise. I have decided to give it another 2 weeks and then look to make a decision on the viability of getting the car out at all this year.

Edited by Arch
Posted

Liking the engine cover :)

Can you explain what the fuel components are on the boot floor Archie? How they work, in tandem or back up etc please?

Posted

Baz

I have decided to go with a twin pump set up so both tanks have twin outlets.

I have a sytec pre pump filter which basically gives a degree of protection for the pump although the particle size of the filter is slightly larger than I wanted but the pumps will not exactly see huge miles so that will be fine, then there is the pump and then on the output of the pump is a fuelab filter which to be honest is more important hence the decent filter and proper element as that will be the protection for the injectors in particular and the engine side in general.

Posted

Getting there slowly Archie.

If I can of an assistance just shout.

Lottery numbers ? Sponsorship ? :lol:

Joking aside thanks Peter :icon_salut:

Posted

Baz

I have decided to go with a twin pump set up so both tanks have twin outlets.

I have a sytec pre pump filter which basically gives a degree of protection for the pump although the particle size of the filter is slightly larger than I wanted but the pumps will not exactly see huge miles so that will be fine, then there is the pump and then on the output of the pump is a fuelab filter which to be honest is more important hence the decent filter and proper element as that will be the protection for the injectors in particular and the engine side in general.

Thanks for that, what kind of pumps are they? Do they run from different circuits? Are you able to monitor the pressure from each then? Do they ultimately become one or do they feed a bank each?

Posted

Thanks for that, what kind of pumps are they? Do they run from different circuits? Are you able to monitor the pressure from each then? Do they ultimately become one or do they feed a bank each?

No Barry, a bank feeds them :smiley-taunt014:

Posted

Thanks guys appreciate the feedback.

Baz once they get to the engine side then they will combine before feeding the fuel rails, pumps are bosch 979's which I chose due to flow and current parameters. In terms of the electrics the pumps will be seperate circuits.

Posted

Thanks Archie, if one goes down can the other supply enough oomph?

It simply won't if running on full boost.

But it will allow you to drive it to a safe place and have the failed pump changed over.

His syvec will no doubt monitor the fuel pressure and have a limp mode to protect the engine from low pressure.

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