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Track Car Project Thread - Eventually


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Baz Pretty much as Peter said the choice of two pumps was mainly a result of not being able to find a single pump that would deliver what I want and be proven reliable. The cost of these pumps is also less than some of the single pumps out there and allows me to buy two and a spare and still make a saving. The downside of course is twice the number of filters and fittings so when it all adds up its close on price to initially buy but cheaper to have spares if that makes sense.

The current draw is also a consideration, the obvious route would be a pair of 044's but the max current draw there could be as much as 31A for the pair the max current draw from the two 979's would be 20A so fair difference there. I have had to try and keep the total current which the car will use down as much as possible as that will affect the size and rating of alternator I need so again that was a deciding factor.

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If anyone is intersted in getting anything airbrushed onto any parts i.e cam covers rocker covers etc I really cant recommend Adam highly enough. His email address is t6customs@hotmail.co.uk if anyone is interested drop him mail.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not managed much time on the car over the last week or so but got 3 full days now to get as much done as possible.

Managed to get the fuel set up plumbed in at the rear and it seems to work well in terms of fit so that I can swap tanks without moving anything around. All the hose is teflon now so shouldnt have to do this again.

few pics below with the small tank and slightly bigger tank.

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And the bigger tank

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Connections underneath to hard pipes. I have used three 8mm hard pipes, two for the supply and one return.

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Huge thanks to Alex from Torques for all the help with various bits, service well above and beyond - thanks.

I have also sorted my prop issue by having the Universal Joint replaced at the diff end so its now a perfect fit for the 95mm flange. Very neat job and its a far better UJ than the standard items. The guy doing the job commented on how poor they were and how they have replaced a fair few on 6 speed props but not so many on the earlier 5 speed props.

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Also got my TGV deletes back and all cleaned up ready to fit a set of Carl Daveys billet rails.

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Plan for tomorrow, well today now, is mock up the engine ancillaries and inlet manifold and see what size spacers i can get away with as I am struggling to find a 20mm spacer anywhere. Also work out what fuel fittings and hose i need for the engine side as well as that hopefully start fabricating the rear diff mount.

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More progress all be it slow. Managed to fit the solid shifter bush kit from SD Motorsports which should make a huge difference to the feel of the change on the 6 speed. I had previously tried a B&M quick shift and it was horrible so it came off straight away.

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Also had this arrived again from Steven - thanks appreciate all the help recently.

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And fitted

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The tatty bracket in the pic is for the downpipe its just hanging loose in the pic when tightened its well clear of the cradle. I test fitted the downpipe as it was custom made on the car but no clearance issues at all so all good.

Made a start on the fabrication for the rear diff support so hopefully finish that tomorrow.

Mocked up the engine bay fuel plumbing so will hopefully crack on with that over the weekend in between work. Once thats complete its a case of fitting all the ancillaries to the engine and start looking at the wiring.

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So, is the SDM Gearbox cradle ready to ship out or did you receive a test item to check?

I think Steven sent this one to me to have a further sanity check to make sure there were no niggles. The tolerances are very tight and the chassis can vary very slightly as I am sure you know. I know Steven has checked these on a few cars he has down at his workshop with both 5 speed and 6 speed boxes but I think he wanted a further check done.

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Starting to see light at the end of the tunnel although still so much to do.

Diff mount fabricated today so that just needs welding. Pipemaster tool I bought for marking the profiled ends on the bars works a treat takes most of the pain out of creating fish mouth profiles gets the joints pretty close first time then it just needs a final tweek.

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Also made a start on the fuel plumbing for the engine side although not much to do there so wont take long to make the necessary pipes up for that.

Next up mount all the ancilliries onto the engine and fit hinges etc to the front fibreglass doors, rears already done so nothing required there other than paint, hopefully.

Edited by Arch
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  • 1 year later...

Well its been a good few months since I updated this. Progress has been pretty much non existant over the summer due to a combination of work commitments and lack of enthusiasm. Things have progressed, all be it slowly over the winter, and the car is now pretty much mechanically finished bar some tarting up, cleaning and the bling bits to add on at the end. The main job still to do is complete the engine loom and get the car running and mapped. I also need to get the car loom completed and will do that at the same time as installing the engine loom.

I have completed the rear diff carrier and all it needs now is a couple of spacers to set the height correctly and then a lick of paint. It has worked out well and will save a fair amount of weight and allow a little height adjustment to the diff to assist with the drive shaft angles. The amount will ultimately be limited by the prop shaft to tunnel clearance.

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I have managed to get all four fibreglass doors mounted and all the locks etc fitted. The rears were easy the fronts were a pain in the **** thanks Simon. When the fronts were moulded the various mounting holes were taped over so well that the positions could not be seen on the fibreglass door which meant a world of pain. I had to make up card templates from the original doors for each hinge and all the door locks and handles etc which proved to be very time consuming to say the least, but all done and pretty pleased with how they turned out. Just need to get the fronts off and dress the edges a bit and prep them for paint. I still need to source the front perspex windows and fit them but that wont be difficult. I was amazed at the weight saving here :)

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The engine had to come back out as the adjustable exhaust pulleys had to be sent away to be modded. Thanks to Chris at CDF for his help with this.

That took a bit of time but was worth it in the end.

The pedal box is mounted and plumbed in along with the hydraulic handbrake.

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The seat rails are welded in and the inside painted.

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The switch panel is mocked up with a temporary switch panel. The main job left to do is wire the inside of the car. The engine loom is getting there.

EGT Probe fitted

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Engine bay is getting there just some shiney bits to fit once the engine loom is fitted

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The wiring for the lights and fans is complete in the engine bay. Tried to keep it short but hidden as much as possible.

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Looking great Arch ;).

Great thread, which makes us all appreciate the amount of time, money & effort required to compete & run one of these cars for sprints/hillclimbs.

Hope to see/hear it roar back to life again soon.....nice work!!

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Thanks guys it has without doubt been an expensive and time consuming build this time, it has taken much much longer than I anticipated and been the most frustrating experience I have had since starting doing this. It has been a lot harder to move the car on this time than at any other stage but it will hopefully be worth it. The season is well underway so this year is lost in terms of competitive events. Hopefully it will make the MLR sprint at Kames and the MSA Kames event the week after and then use the rest of the year as set up for next year. The only changes planned for next year are engine and head upgrades which are easier to plan.

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  • 10 months later...

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