Help Fitting Boost Gauge please

[Diablo Blaze]

Karl have you tried two small dubley clips, may get away with it as a last resort.

 

[Stressymare]

and to think i fitted mine in about two hours lol

 

[]

[twofourdonkey]

It is a lot simpler and neater to tee into the small dump valve hose. The hose can then be hidden under the intercooler out of the way.

The tee piece you have should fit that as well, just cable tie the pipes again to be sure there are no leaks. 

[wrxwillo]

Used some extra hose and a couple of 6-4mm reducers onto the vacuum hose from the dump valve. Seems to be working okay. Boosting to around 1.2bar []

Thanks for everyones advice (and diagrams Diablo) [Y]

[paul n]

Pleased your sorted, boost reading sounds spot on[]

[wrxwillo]

Having trouble with my Oil pressure gauge.......................

only joking. Thanks Paul[]

[paul n]

Having trouble with my Oil pressure gauge.......................

only joking. Thanks Paul[]

LOL[]

[blue boy]

Bob (blueboy) initially had probs getting his to work.

that's cause he plugged his into his oil sump

 

Nige P off!!

[blue boy]

Fitting a Boost Gauge to a MY02 WRX.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

As the engine and dash are different between the Classic and Bug eye Impreza and I’ve only been able to find threads on the SIDC Forum on how to fit a boost gauge to a classic, I thought it may be useful to run through how one was fitted to my MY02 WRX.

 

I had spent some time looking for a gauge that looked right with the existing gauges.

I finally settled on an Autometer Boost Gauge with black face, white lettering and the option of green back lighting (the other options being red or white) to tie in with the dash lights.

I opted for one with a brushed aluminium effect surround again to tie in with the dash dials.

 

Even longer was spent finding a pod that looked like part of the car and not an afterthought, Power Engineering Limited came up trumps with this model. (See picture 1)

 

Whilst the gauge came supplied with boost pipe and connectors the following additional items were required:-

 

6mm Rubber Hose (1 metre cost £1.50)

3mm Silicone tubing.

A plastic reducing T piece (1/4” to 3/16”)

Selection of cable ties.

Double sided stickies.

PTFE Tape.

Heavy Duty Double sided Velcro.

 

The fitting steps are as follows:-

 

Fit male crimp connectors to the two wires coming of the gauge.

Fit female crimp connectors to two 5 amp wires and cut this to approx 1 metre.

Fit the gauge into the pod sliding the rubber ring over the back of the gauge right up to the inside of the pod thus fixing the gauge in the pod.

Remove the lower fascia from the right hand side of the steering column, be careful not to damage the alarm wiring.

Pass the boost pipe and 5 amp wire down the right hand side of the dash pushing it into the gap between the A pillar and dash, until you can feed it through a hole into the space below the dash that’s normally covered by the lower fascia.

Identify the feed, that’s live when your lights are on, from one of the driving/fog lamp switches, and connect one of the 5 amp wires to this wire, using your preferred method (scotch clip, piggy back connector or soldering).

Find a good suitable earth and connect the other 5 amp wire to that.

Pass the boost pipe through the rubber grommet above the pedals into the engine compartment.

Connect the two 5 amp wires using the male and female connectors to the wires coming out of the back of the gauge and check that the light comes on when you turn your lights on. You may wish to insert a very small inline fuse on the live wire.

If everything is working ok then refit the lower fascia.

Connect the boost pipe to the back of the gauge using the connections provided and sealing every joint with PTFE tape.

Position the pod roughly in position using double sided stickies.

Route the boost pipe around the back of the engine bay to the right hand side of the engine securing it by cable ties to the pipe that runs along the bulk head and keeping it away from heat sources. (See picture 2 )

Bring the boost pipe towards the front of the car again securing it by cable ties to the pipe that runs towards the Dump Valve. (See picture 3 )

Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator rubber pipe, sometimes known as the Blow Off Valve (BOV) tube, from the Dump Valve and replace it with a suitable length (about 3 inches) of 6 mm rubber pipe this avoids the need of cutting the fuel pressure regulator rubber pipe (BOV).

Fit the plastic reducing T piece (1/4” to 3/16”) into the open end of the fuel pressure regulator rubber pipe (BOV) & the other end of the 6 mm rubber pipe.

Connect the boost pipe to a suitable length of 3mm Silicone Pipe and secure with cable ties. (See picture 3 )

Connect the other end of the 3mm Silicone Pipe to the plastic reducing T piece and secure with cable ties.(See pictures 4 & 5 )

Check that the boost gauge is registering a negative reading when the engine is warm and idling and reacts when the throttle is pressed and the turbo kicks in (this is best done on a run).

The Gauge should read as follows:-

During idling (after warm up is complete) the gauge indicates approx -0.06 to -0.08 Mpa.

When the accelerator is pressed during idling the needle moves close to 0 (atmospheric pressure).When the pedal is released the gauge reads close to -0.1 (vacuum) for an instant then returns to the idle position.

The needle changes between 0 and -0.1 Mpa according to the throttle opening (or engine load) until the turbo kicks in. Generally when the accelerator pedal is depressed the pointer moves close to 0 (negative pressure is small). When the pedal is released it reads close to -0.1 (negative pressure is large).

When the turbo starts, with the vehicle moving, the gauge show turbo pressure usually about 1.1 to 1.2 Bar, when the engine comes off boost the gauge shows the negative reading.

When the engine is switched off the gauge reads 0.

 

Check that the tubing is well away from heat sources and points of wear and secure accordingly with cable ties. (See Picture 6 for overall location and routing)

Finally secure the pod using the method of your choice I used Heavy Duty Double sided Velcro.

 

With thanks to

“Lemmy” for pointing me in the direction of Power Engineering Limited.

Power Engineering Limited (01895 255699) for supplying the gauge and pod.

Nick of NS Auto Security of Stoke on Trent (07976 659483) for sorting the electrics as well as my Nokia Hands Free Kit, Blackjax 4, Snooper and Road Angel.

Fluid Power Services Limited (0151 922 1721) for the 6mm Hose and T piece.

And last but not least for “Ayde” for sorting the boost pipe.

 

Blue Boy/Bob Jones.

[blue boy]

[rasher]

Bob then forgot to metion if all else fails..........................plug into your sump!!

[wrxwillo]

Thanks Bob

[blue boy]

Bob then forgot to metion if all else fails..........................plug into your sump!!

 

Metion?????

 

What are you on Nige??????[]

 

Are you going on Sunday Nige......................assuming it's not raining of course![]

[rasher]

nope afraid not, am working

[rasher]

Metion?????

ok slip of the finger..........should have been mention, ok now Carol Vorderman

[blue boy]

Working again!!!!!

 

Are you saving up for a new car??[]

 

Seriously tho' I need your signature on a form.

[rasher]

I didnt do it, what do you need my monica on aform for, is it to do with money??

[blue boy]

I touch goats Nige

[myimprezasport]

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hi mate just got a impreza sport but in need to take a boost valve off the car its drinking my fuel any tips thanks

[myimprezasport]

I touch goats Nige

hi mate need help to remove a boost valve from my engine its drinking alot of fuel, it stops the car from flat spots unow i took it of but the pipe was to short to join back in might need extra bit of pipe any susjestion mate thanks

[myimprezasport]

hi need help taking off boost valve, its drinking petrol too much its by the fuel rail and i took it off and the pipe was to short to join back together after removing boost valve. is it missing a bit of pipe or what the best to join the pipe back together petrol leeks any susjestions