ayde

Excellent, I've got a couple of bottles of Millers octane booster so I'll chuck one in if/when I fill up. Just the car was mapped for Momentum/V-power so I don't want to stick normal unleaded in. Thanks for the replies.

Excellent thanks, means I can leave the Gerry cans of Tesco Momentum at home then!

Hi, Coming over for a week soon and just wondering if I will be able to get super unleaded? Last time I was over it was for Scoobyfest in 2004 and I don't think you had it then? Cheers, Ayde.

Hi, Trying to get a group buy with Opie Oils going on Castrol Syntrax: http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=108359 Cheers.

You can support it if you like but you will have to force it down to get the strut out and it is fairly solid so its not really an issue, you will see when you have it in bits[]

As above they dont do a newage Type R they must mean a Type RA or spec c. Struts are really easy to fit, about half an hour a side if you are not swapping springs over. 3 (IIRC 12mm) nuts on the top of the strut (top mount) under the bonnet slacken off but dont remove You will have to un bolt the brake line from the strut under the arch above the hub (think this is either a 10mm or 12mm bolt) Get some tipex and mark the positions of the bolt heads that secure the strut to the hub (IIRC the top bolt is eccentric - used to alter camber on front wheels) Once these are out the strut assembly is free (you may have to put some heat into these nuts as they can be pretty tight and a bit corroded) Undo the 3 top mount nuts you slackened off earlier get back under the wheel arch and remove the strut, normally take's a bit of jiggling and persuasion with a big screw driver. If you are swapping over the springs it would be best to slacken the top nut on the strut while the weight of the car is still on the strut before doing any of the above. Once the strut is out you can use spring compressors but they are not really necessary, just makes it a bit easier. Remove the top nut and then lift the top mount and spring off the strut - MAKE SURE YOU MAKE A NOTE OF THE POSITIONS OF THE SPRING AND THE TOP MOUNT/HAT ETC AS IF YOU DO NOT PUT THESE BACK ON ON THE CORRECT POSITION THE SPRING WILL RUB ON YOUR INNER WING. Use tipex again to mark things up - makes it a lot easier. Put it all back together and try to get the eccentric bolt in a similar position to what it originally was. Once it has all settled in you would be best to get a full 4 wheel alignment done so if you are getting the rear struts as well you would be best to fit these at the same time to save money in the long run, they may be a different rate to the ones you have to as they are from a JDM car. A 4 wheel alignment is alot cheaper than 4 new tyres and it will improve the handling. The rears are similar to the fronts apart from the brake line is held in place with a clip (on classics the brake line is captive in the strut and you either had to remove the brake line to remove the shock and mess around doing a full bleed after or what most people do is use a hacksaw and cut the bracket and bend it out of the way to remove the brake line and then do the reverse on refitting. I am sure that newage brake lines are not captive in the rear struts though, so it makes it easier. To get to the top of the struts you have to remove the rear seat - 10 minute job - 2 bolts in the front of the lower section - then just pull it out. 3 bolts in the base of the rear section in the area of the seat belt anchors then give the back a lift up and remove it. Its pretty tight to get into the top 3 nuts on the rears - it can be made easier by removing the seat belt inertia's, with the right tools there is no need for this though Access to the lower strut bolts is a bit tighter on the rear and as far as I know the bolts are not eccentric (not on the classic anyway) Then just follow the same as for the fronts if you are swapping springs etc... I have got a link to a full guide with pictures off scoobymods.com somewhere I will try and find it. It is for a classic but there is virtually no difference.

I use the 1155's with 4 pots on my MY99 Turbo, I did try the EBC redstuff's but they destroyed a new set of discs and themselves within 8k miles and although they felt very promising at first they really were not that good. So I went back to the 1155's although they are very dusty they perform really well for the price. I get my discs from Camskill - they charge about £88 delivered for the 4 pot disc and will be cheaper for the 2 pot disc IIRC they are about £60 plus p+p (about £8).

How can you be a lesser scooby owner with a classic Type R, probably the only car I would ever consider changing mine for - nuff said![]

It is really heavy gauge galvanised steel wire, much heavier duty than the std plasic and rubber items. I have had mine on for around 18 months and checking them over today when I was doing the arb they are fine (done about 20k miles). They have had plenty of hard use round the twisties too![]

Andy Give Dave Featherstone a ring at Tweeks, his direct No. is - 01978663042. Tweeks are doing an ongoing discount on all Whiteline stuff of 15% (started on Scoobynet) it's been going for around 18 months now! So just give them a ring mention Scoobynet when your ordering. Also if you want anything else thats non whiteline order it whilst ordering your whiteline stuff as he has been giving discounts on other items that are purchased at the same time (not sure if this is everything, but all the stuff I have ordered has had discount to)! Personally I would save the money and go for the steel ones, I think the alloy ones are just more bling, you cant really see tham anyway. I have the steel ones front and rear on my classic and they are an improvement over the plastic and rubber std ones. I also went and got a 22mm adjustable rear arb for mine today - £88.01 inc VAT[] set it on the middle hole and its a big improvement - much flatter ride[]

The new maf sensor I stuck in stopped the det altogether[] 6.5 years on the original isnt to bad though[]

Asda usually has them - think they are called "coin star" it prints you a voucher that you can either use for shopping (think there is no charge for this IIRC) or you can cash it in and they take a percentage.

Still interested in the armourfending but im just in the process of buying a house and been on holiday last week so not had much time on my hands, I will let you know when I have got things sorted![] Im not into football anyway so I wouldnt of known who he was[:$]! 32 posts and counting![]

Easy mods would be the likes of strut braces but the newage cars are a lot stiffer than the classics so would probably be more show than performance orientated. A whiteline rear ARB and some uprated droplinks would help performance along with a prodrive wheel alignment from Prosport (if you havnt had this already). You already have a car that has a fair amount of power so why not look into uprating the brake pads and maybe sticking on some braided brake lines with better grade brake fluid (a good brake and handling set-up will give you a much faster car than trying to get more bhp out of it[])! It maybe worth looking at trying to get an STI intercooler (if you have a WRX) you will see a small performance gain but mainly from the Y-pipe on the base of the intercooler that couples up to the turbo, the STI one is alloy not ribbed plastic like the WRX ones which doesnt do air flow any favours, Samco do a silicone pipe for this that you can use with a std wrx intercooler think they are £70ish IIRC? If you have a de-cat to go on you will see a decent performance gain from this and as said before go for a green or k&n replacement panel filter about £40.

30 POSTS![]