james_mowbray

hi troops, Im looking for someone that might be able to help build a website and logo design. I have a site and hosting atm but am in the process of changing. If theres anyone ooot there thats got a bit time for this can you give me a shout.. Only down side is im on a budget cheers james

So how does the heating work then

£17 for this years official "top club" adidas football top, you cant beat that anywhere!

Brings a PS3 down to well under under £400, but then you can probably get them else where for that price. James

Dont know if its already been posted but here goes...... Go to and select the football shirt you want. (Must be a £49.00 one) Add it to your basket then go to your basket. Put payment terms as credit/debit cardEnter XX024 in the promotional code (10% off) and click go Then enter ZQ055 in the promotional code (£23.50 off) and click go Then enter ZQ298 in the promotional code (£2.95 free delivery) and click go Once you have done that click checkout & it should give a total price of £17.65!!! Works for other stuff on the site as well.

Anyone know of anyone in Edinburgh that are competent enough to fit and set-up coilovers? James

Thats not the car park, its the back yard[] Where they keep service motors/pre-stock etc

I'm awaiting reply James Thank you for your email. Any vehicle registered in the UK on or after 23rd March 2006 with a Co2 emissions of 225 g/km or over will be placed in the highest Vehicle Excise Duty (VED) Band of G. The current VED for 12 months in this band is £300 this will increase to £400 in 2008. I have checked the vehicle record for T5 **M and the Co2 emissions for the vehicle are 343 g/km. Even though the vehicle was manufactured and registered outside the UK before 23rd March 2006 it is not possible to change the VED Band. I trust my reply has been of some assistance.

I'm awaiting reply James

I thought Id get away with this having a MY2000 JDM sti, but because it was registered in the UK after March 2006 I get hit with the highest band. [8o|] ahhhh well [:'(] James

I'd be interested to see the results, not that I know anything about that particular company[] James

First thing to do is a good spray of wd40 or suchlike to all nuts/bolts on the downpipe (and system if your replacing the whole thing) Next remove the intercooler Next stage is a pain remove the heat-shield Once all the heat shields off (comes out in bits)take out the 3 nuts to the top of the turbo/downpipe Car in the air and remove the lower 2 nuts- these ones were tricky proper tools will speed it up. Remove the lambda sensor the the fixings to the centre section The downpipe should slide back then down and out. Took me 3 hours in total at my first attempt, so expect the same sort of man hours. Dont forget to wrap your downpipe or youll end up having to take it off and doing it at a later stage. James

If youve got the right tools it wont be a problem, if the turbos hot, youll do some serious self harming. To get the leverage to loosen the bottom bolts I used a rachet with three extention bars attached. If you wanted to you could start the car once youve removed the heat shield, if you felt it would aid in loosening the bolts, but it would mean having to reconnect the intercooler and then having to take it off again to redo the top bolts. IMO wouldnt be worth while. On the plus side its a great feeling of satisfaction when you start her up[] James

When I done mine I found major issues to be:- 1. The heat-sheild. time needed to find all the bolts, no grinder required 2. Getting leverage for lower bolts to the turbo 3. Theres a bracket halfway down the neck of the downpipe which was no where near a fixing point. (so it was grinded off) 4. Be prepaired, the system I bought had a gasket kit but the turbo to downpipe one was missing. I didnt think to check...[:$] 5. If the downpipes got 2 sensor holes, make sure youve got a plug for one. And probably the very best and most important advice I would give is make sure the turbos cold before you start. best of luck with it.. James

even though I checked before hand to make sure it was the correct fitment, it wasnt. So the connecter had to be bined. Its straightforward in the classics though, as the sensor is pretty accessable, compared to the newage. James