james_mowbray

So how does the heating work then

Anyone know of anyone in Edinburgh that are competent enough to fit and set-up coilovers? James

Thats not the car park, its the back yard[] Where they keep service motors/pre-stock etc

I'm awaiting reply James Thank you for your email. Any vehicle registered in the UK on or after 23rd March 2006 with a Co2 emissions of 225 g/km or over will be placed in the highest Vehicle Excise Duty (VED) Band of G. The current VED for 12 months in this band is £300 this will increase to £400 in 2008. I have checked the vehicle record for T5 **M and the Co2 emissions for the vehicle are 343 g/km. Even though the vehicle was manufactured and registered outside the UK before 23rd March 2006 it is not possible to change the VED Band. I trust my reply has been of some assistance.

I'm awaiting reply James

I thought Id get away with this having a MY2000 JDM sti, but because it was registered in the UK after March 2006 I get hit with the highest band. [8o|] ahhhh well [:'(] James

I'd be interested to see the results, not that I know anything about that particular company[] James

First thing to do is a good spray of wd40 or suchlike to all nuts/bolts on the downpipe (and system if your replacing the whole thing) Next remove the intercooler Next stage is a pain remove the heat-shield Once all the heat shields off (comes out in bits)take out the 3 nuts to the top of the turbo/downpipe Car in the air and remove the lower 2 nuts- these ones were tricky proper tools will speed it up. Remove the lambda sensor the the fixings to the centre section The downpipe should slide back then down and out. Took me 3 hours in total at my first attempt, so expect the same sort of man hours. Dont forget to wrap your downpipe or youll end up having to take it off and doing it at a later stage. James

If youve got the right tools it wont be a problem, if the turbos hot, youll do some serious self harming. To get the leverage to loosen the bottom bolts I used a rachet with three extention bars attached. If you wanted to you could start the car once youve removed the heat shield, if you felt it would aid in loosening the bolts, but it would mean having to reconnect the intercooler and then having to take it off again to redo the top bolts. IMO wouldnt be worth while. On the plus side its a great feeling of satisfaction when you start her up[] James

When I done mine I found major issues to be:- 1. The heat-sheild. time needed to find all the bolts, no grinder required 2. Getting leverage for lower bolts to the turbo 3. Theres a bracket halfway down the neck of the downpipe which was no where near a fixing point. (so it was grinded off) 4. Be prepaired, the system I bought had a gasket kit but the turbo to downpipe one was missing. I didnt think to check...[:$] 5. If the downpipes got 2 sensor holes, make sure youve got a plug for one. And probably the very best and most important advice I would give is make sure the turbos cold before you start. best of luck with it.. James

even though I checked before hand to make sure it was the correct fitment, it wasnt. So the connecter had to be bined. Its straightforward in the classics though, as the sensor is pretty accessable, compared to the newage. James

Heres a link to the one I got for my 93RA. Didnt use the connector though. I just soldered the wires. http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_LB1005.html James

1. Cal - date dependant - existing Ecutek (2hrs) - WRX2002 - Mid-Feb - Yes 2. Cullenmin - Yes - Ecutek (+license) - '00 Uk Turbo - 31st Jan (prov booked) - Full 3. Craig79 - Yes - Ecutek (+ license) - '03 WRX - 1st Feb - Yes 4. JTM - Yes - Ecutec (+ licence) - '00(bugeye) JDM STI - 19th Feb - Yes 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Always thought I was quite good though [] James

Its not just the oven bake that causes this. In the powder coating process after the alloys are blasted they are bathed in very strong acid. If theres any hairline cracks in the alloy the acid will penitrate and the oven process will aggravate this. There are pros and cons for both powdercoating and painting. If the alloys very badly damaged or corroded you will get a better finish powder coating than painting You will get a better colour match painting, powdercoating esp gold always seems to come out darker. (whites good though) Take into account that a bodyshop still bakes the wheels. All IMHO James