des_curran

As Craig has said get on to vosa. You have 3 months to appeal when its corrosion related.

I'm an mot tester and a ford senior technician, also im a workshop controler in a ford main francise and yes it would fail. Without actualy seeing it i cant say all it would fail on, but would most likely fail on excessive corrosion within 30cm of a seatbelt mounting point. The only criteria for the seats are, they must be secure and the back must be able to be secured in an upright position, the only time corrosion affects the seat mounting points is if it has a seatbelt mounting on the seat, then all seat mounting points must have no excessive corrosion within 30cm of any of them, and if i remember correctly the escort has the seatbelt latch on the seat base frame so all the seat mountings are in prescribed areas. Theres 3 main reasons for rejection on corrosion on the body The first is prescribed areas, any excessive corrosion within 30cm of a steering, suspension or seatbelt mounting point is a fail. The second is vehicle structure, any corrosion not within a prescribed area which adversely affects braking or steering by severely reducing the strength or continuity of a main load bearing structural member. The third reason is body condition, any sharp edge or projection caused by corrosion which renders the vehicle dangerous to other road users including pedestrians. Theres also body security but the escort is of monocoque shell so so would not fall into this catagory.

I fitted a set of hid's to my last impreza, it was a bugeye sti so it already had the projector lenses as standard, the difference was night and day just so much better. I bought mine from Duncan at Hypertech and i fitted them in about 30 minutes, had them on the car for over a year before i sold it and never had a single problem with them, i cant remember what make they were though. The construction and use legal requirements for hid's are, headlamp washers, a self leveling system and projector beam lenses, but the only requirements on them to pass an MOT are the correct beam alignment and pattern so as not to dazzle other road users (i'm an mot tester) my current sti has them as standard but if i bought another car that didnt have them i would have no hesitation in fitting them again, a well worthwhile upgrade.

My last sti had the standard RAC trackstar and i think it was £120 subscription per year but no mention of any maintenance cost, my current sti has the metasat tracker as standard which you only pay for if you are tracking the car, it has a vodaphone top up card so you can add credit to it, theres nothing in the paperwork that says it requires any maintenance either.

1. McTwist 2. Mrs McTwist 3. Greersport 4. Mrs Greersport 5. Meercat Exhaust 6. Mrs Meercat 7. Grant 8. Imy 9. Terzo neil 10. Badbaz 11. Mrs Badbaz 12. STI Pretender 13. Mrs STI Pretender 14. Ally-b 15. wrx kenny 16.wrx kenny + nic 17. jimser 18. caitlin 19. gary d 20. leslie 21. yellow craig 22. louise 23. Ed-209 24. kennyuk300 25.Mrs kennyuk300 26. JamesM 27. MrsM 28. Des 29. Maz I will donate a bottle of Smirnoff for the raffle

I had both my rear struts done about 2 to 3 months ago at Ian Grieves, no problems with warranty and hassle free

If it is just the heat shield its not normaly too bad as it just barely touches the steering, i would still get it sorted asap as there is the possibility it could lock up (unlikely but still possible) theres a bracket that goes from the up pipe to the down pipe heat shield but because you dont have a standard down pipe with heat shields anymore you just bend the bracket out the way so it cant hit the steering, sorted. Do you feel a vibration through the wheel when cornering ?

Check the turbo up-pipe heatshielding for hitting the steering colum when the steering is on lock, it only happens on cars with a decat down-pipe as the up and downpipe heatshields were bolted together before decatting the down-pipe, i am a mechanic/mot tester and have seen this on many subaru's, hope this helps. P.S. The car must be on a 4 poster ramp (i.e. with the weight on its wheels) to see it hitting

I ran tein coilovers with pff7's which are 8" wide with 235/40/18" tyres on my my02 sti it also had a w/line anti lift kit and i never had any problems with rubbing.

I had Tein type monoflex coilover on my other car a my02 sti and it was way too hard for normal road use, they were great on a flat road with no potholes but you only had to touch a catseye on the road and it got very nervous.

My car is booked in to Ian Grieves next Saturday to get both rear struts replaced under warranty, i went in last week told the service department i had a knocking noise from the rear, i said i suspect it to be a shocker, five minutes later a tech took it for a drive he was only gone a couple of minutes when he returned and said it needs two rear struts, it was pretty painless i only wish it was as easy to condem faulty parts at my work. I work for Ford as a technician/MOT tester and we can only replace the part under warranty that has failed, if one shocker is knackered only one is replaced, we cant replace any item without connecting the car to a computer (IDS) and go through an online guided diagnostic session with Ford, only then after doing lots of pinpoint tests that the computer has told us to do can we condem a part and get an RVC (repair validation code) to replace a faulty component.

I've got 235/40/18" Pireli p zero's on my hawkeye, and i have 235/40/18" michelin pilot sport 2 on my bugeye and the grip is far better with the michelin tyres. I've had Toyo t1r, Goodyear f1 gsd3, and Dunlop sport max, and found the Michelin ps2's to have far better grip than the others i've had.

Any newage brace should fit, you will have to bend the aircon pipe slightly down on the n/s though, i have a Tein brace fitted on my car top quality bar and looks the part

As you say new pads and rotors aint cheap so you want to know for sure it is warped discs before splashing out on them To check for warped discs you need to get a garage to check them with a run out gauge, they will remove each wheel and secure your disc to the hub with the wheel nuts and some washers, then they will fit a magnetic arm/clamp to your strut with a dial indicator gauge on the end and preload the gauge slightly against the disc, then they will turn the disc and any disc warpage will show on the dial indicator. The other way to check for warpage but not advised on a 4 x 4 like a subaru is to get a garage with a roller brake tester (any mot test station will have one) to start both rbt rollers and press the brake pedal down but not enough to lock the wheels then hold the pressure on the pedal very steady and if one or both rbt gauges are fluctuating then you know that disc is warped, but again roller brake testers are not advised for constant 4 wheel drive vehicles as it can wind up the diffs. The reason i ask about hard left and right turns is to rule out any play in the wheel bearing causing pad knock off, which is normaly noticed as a long brake pedal travel the first time you press the brakes after hard turns.

Hi m8, Warped discs are more pronounced through the steering than the pedal, a pulsing through the pedal when braking sounds more like ABS, did it suddenly start doing it or did it get worse over time ? I have AP 6 pots on my current car and had them on my last subaru with no problems, and im very hard on the brakes. You said you had the caliper off and everything seemed ok, are the pads worn even ? are all the hex bolts securing the bell to the rotor tight ? How much wear is on the discs do they have a lip ? Does the pedal travel get any longer if you make some hard left and right turns (ie: throwing the car about) ? Is there any vibration under normal driving or only when braking ? Des