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t5nyw

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Posts posted by t5nyw

    Gear box rattle

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    search youtube for COBB Subaru short shifter install.

    its not that clear in vidoe

    but item 4 in dons picture, it comes out quite easy with a knack.LOL 

     if you grab the bottom edge of tbe gator hole.

    1) with both hands use a finger and thumb hold each bottom corner. (clip not that hard can be done one handed)

    2) A thumb on silver part and put finger into the gator till you feel the under side silver plastic (underneath your thumb) and pinch together like crab claw.

    3) repeat in other bottom as above with other hand.

    4) With good  grip pull up and towards gaerstick /radio and bottom should pop out. (unclip)  

    5) then top edge has two location lus/clips/hinge and should fall out.  You to put these in first on assembly

    should be able to hang over gear knob.

    to put back in

    1) push up top edge up and locate two lugs

     2) keeping a litle pressure so lugs dont fall out,  hinge down to position

    3) push bottom edge firmlly towards gearstick and should click easily into place 

    4) if not use pinch method.

    Tony

    New to Forum

    in Introduce Yourself

    Posted

    8 hours ago, W5ray said:

    T I right in saying that the (in my case) ELC code I have doesn't actually relate a letter to an option, but a set of options available for the car at that time?

     

    I would assume that ELC option code is for Electric Windows, remote central locking, ABS, Driver & Passenger airbags - this is on an imported STI V6 MY00. 

    Correct

    EL or ELC Code means same (C means nougthing) but means different on 98 or 01 car.

    or  has DCCD, old wheels, roof vent & no stereo. etc.

     

    ss said Ade or Dean on type RA.com can definitely say whatit means

    Tony

    New to Forum

    in Introduce Yourself

    Posted · Edited by t5nyw

    IIRC.it may mean no DCCD  so it may have ABS, as ecu could only handle one or the other.

    I agree type ra always good info, Dean or Ade Top Blokes :thumbs:

    see this post below seems most are dealer fitted options  metntins WNC, 73C, 75C 83C

     https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/vin-code-help-gc8f2dd-type-r-ltd.13017/

    this one below is BLC

    https://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/threads/option-code-decoding.30124/

    https://classicregister.com/content/how-identify-1999-2000-subaru-gc-impreza-wrx-sti-version-6

    https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1304408

    Tony

    Changing diff oils

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    On 26/4/2020 at 20:11, ccrien said:

    You,ll get many opinions!

    economy option : Comma SX75/90 semi synthetic

    good  mid - high price option: Motul gear 300 synthetic. ( also 75W/90)

    best advice is to change regularly and keep an eye on condition of what comes out and for anything more than a very thin slimy coating of grey matter on the magnetic plug.

    DITTO :thumbs:

    Parts help

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Lockheed said:

    Can bolts like this not be warmed up, also ive had some success tightening the bolt first and going back ward and forward, 

    Ive also welded a bar to the bolt, gets it hot and give some leverage. 

    yes heat is a awesome tip.:thumbs: Welding on expands metal and weld cools it contracts can provide thermal shock    

    Tip 1

    I have rothenberger gas gun in my plumming kit real handy. it can start and stop instantly. Saves knocking over still lit :huh: if not check car insurance first covers fire and theft  :lol:

    Tip 2

    Really need to heat the outside body so expands and cool the bolt in therory. So heat stub area (to expand) watch out for grases and oil etc. Then spay bolt head with cold WD40 (to contract) or even better pipe freezing spray. Caution hot wd40/Oil vapour "steam" can be VERY flammible and Flash

    Tip 3

    Bearing outer races in a bore and cannot get out. Far to tight and little to no lip to press or hit. We put runs of weld around the inside of outer race, let weld cool and weld "pulls" & contracts the race just falls out.

    Tip 4

    if inner race on a shaft is hard and fast no lip to press etc. put race anvil and hit hard with hammer, heavy cold chisel. if good hard race it will crack and split easy after 1 or 2 good hits. if doesnt put a knick along it with grinder an cold chisel in knick. If still does not snap, avoid using grinder to cut race in half as will cut shaft. Nomally least shat damage by using grinder flat. you will see difference as get nearly through to shaft sometimes blue and splits open.

    Tip 5

    Fitting bearings on shafts without press.

     Emerse bearings in a tin with oil and heat up in oven 80-120*c and expands them to so Slips on by hand to shafts. But once cool would need 50-200 ton press to get off.

    please use eye protection, apprentice tapped a reamer with a hammer, peice hit him in eye VERY lucky never lost it. and other PPE 

    Covid 19, should be leaving singapore now for Melboure :ak::aq:

    Tony

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1

    Hello all , its been a while but i made it back!

    in Introduce Yourself

    Posted

    On 16/4/2020 at 18:45, frodge said:

    turns out that my signature was right and also that the wife was true to her word , she let me have another scooby, and without selling the leggy too BONUS!

    So am now the proud owner of the leggy and a wrx sti 2018 plate and love it 

    so now have the best of both worlds, well i think so anyway!

    thats awesome :thumbs:

    i do love the shape of the new Saloon.

     

    get a picture of both up

    Tony

    In these precedented times....let’s bomb pics of our scoobs!

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    4 hours ago, leon77 said:

    Well yes I've been informed a few times!? as i might go back to the standard vent when I finally get it re sprayed, as I've noticed when I'm doing top speed it starts vibrating about a bit to much!!!? 

    As for the next night out tony I'm well up for it ile not go AWOL this time!!!:boldblue:..... were you thinking??? Over your neck of the woods??? or somewhere completely different I'm in:beer: let's keep this posted...... always a pleasure?

    trys to rip my bonnet off over 120mph. the hawk scoop looks like original but inbetween sizes.

    yes somewhere new, maybe get ankle tag next time :lol:

    In these precedented times....let’s bomb pics of our scoobs!

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    50 minutes ago, leon77 said:

    I've only has this one? so a couple of pics....

    20190601_201848.jpg

    Cracking pictures and lovely car?
     

    LEON as your aware my old fashioned views of 03-05 bonnet scoops on classics.  But it does seem the upgrade of choice,

    so just like haters of my bugeye In the past, I’m going have to just get over it. LOL

    we need another night out and a beer or tHree ? 

     

    tony

    Parts help

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    The theory is any bolt that’s rocking tight, hitting it into thread shocks and stretches on the recoil.  And becomes losser. 
    looks like your mechanically astute so apologies. Not a sucking eggs post.  as we have a very vast range of skills here  

    I had access to left handed drills, easy outs and helicoil kit. 
    Hardest is getting to drill central. Start with smallest drill first. Try NOT to bend and snap the drill as that’s a complete shitstorm.
     
    The open hole can be worse as rusted from rear. But can wound right through with right hand drill.  The blind hole is normally clean once sheared off. 

    good luck post some picks up ?

     

    Parts help

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Robbie09 said:

    Ok thanks 

    also taking out the bolts can be bigger issue than getting. so worth trying to remove first and copper slip back in. Making simpler job next time. some holes are blind and some are threaded right though the hubs.

    if I've taking out 3 bolts one would shear off :aq:a better success rate method i found, clean out through hole and spray shed loads of WD40. Also spray over the back of plate hub seaps to the blind hole. leave over night even better respray more WD leave again for next day.

    Next approx big hammer and 10mm round punch (or old short extensoin socket bar) hit the head of the bolt straght into hub very hard 3/4 times ish.  Then a little prayer spray more WD and undo.

    hopefully may save drilling out and re tapping, may not.

    tony

    • Upvote 1

    Launch control

    in General Subaru Discussion

    Posted

    22 hours ago, Joe Preston said:

    To be fair I heard the same about getting hold of him. But dropped him a email and got straight back to me. Also has sorted my ecu out straight away so can't fault him at all amazing service 

    Can you pass on Andy Carr email address to lockhead :thumbs:

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