trackhound

Well was looking at buying another car !! a Newage for my run about, but also wanted to do some new mods on my classic, so after alot of hummming and ariiiiiinnnggg ive decided to sack the newage and spend it all on the Classic.. how selfish i know only doing what it deserves lol I have ran out of steam with the 2.5 SCDB the engine is sound and will be up for sale next month with STi 2 heads fitted to the 2.5 all the work has being carried out by SW Motorsport.

Have been speaking to many of the top builders around and all basicly said the best engine to get was the EJ22 closed deck block like hens teeth and bloody expensive just for the shell ....so this is the next stage then stoke the block 2.35 I have new targets that i want to achieve for 2010 and is a 10sec car... 1/4 mile Im also selling a wife and two kids to fund this...lol offers welcolmed hope she doesn't read this.This is what the short engine consists of..

2.35lt Short Engine Parts:

EJ22 closed deck block, stripped, & de-greased

Arrow billet crank, low pressure oil feed, Nitrided,

Lateral/Wiseco custom 2.35lt pistons, rings & up rated pins

Lateral/Crower "H" section stroker rods,

Multi layer steel head gaskets, to suit piston kit CR (pair)

ACL “Race series” main bearings, phase 2 (set)

ACL “Race Series” centre main thrust bearing

ACL “Race series” big end bearings (set)

Lateral Performance custom intercooler kit (no pipes) all the pipes will be customed made by SW

To modify customer supplied 740cc injectors to 1100cc

& flow match.

So the next month or so is going to be exiting for me anyways oh and the turbo will be going on sale very soon also Garett30/40 i have missed alot of other bits and pieces but the main parts are there ...

Roll on March

Chris

Hi Chris nice spec - what turbo are you going for?

Cheers

Alistair

thinking of releasing more power from the car but what is the best way to go

do i get a remap

do i buy a maped ecu and is it that easy just to plug it in and get the power or

do i get one of those superpotatoes fitted

what are the prices

car is a 2005 wrx wagon with exhaust and filter fitted

brakes are done so can handle more power

would be interested in a group buy remap if anyone is trying to set one up

thanks maxy

You do not need a new ECU as your OEM denso ECU is capable of being reflashed and is more than adequate unless you want to go nuts. (I am still using one on a 460 BHP car).

If you have a panel filter and a decent decat exhaust, a fairly sensible remap should take you to around the 270 bhp mark. However I suggest thinking carefully about your power goals/budget and then mod and tune towards it. I have spent years gradually modding and mapping my own development car and spent many a pound sterling in the process and would have saved alot of money if I had decided what my goals were from the outset and then built to that spec from day 1! Mind you, it has been alot of fun!

Cheers

Alistair

How do tell, im sure I read that its something to do with hatch markings?

And...are they worth anything broke? I maybe have one with bottem ends gone.

Ryan

the hatch marks can be found on the top of the drivers side engine casing in front of where the oil pressure feed from the oil gallery is and also underneath the casing on the housing for mounting the modine.

Excuse my "noob-i-ness" here on this topic as I am on my first scoob.

53 STi UK PPP

I have had bother with the car when sitting on the motorway around 60ish and then putting the foot flat down (5th or 6th gear); the car would feel like it initially wants to take off, but then it pulses and backs off a little - still pulls like crazy, but for that initial split second it feels like it could have given a hell of a lot more.

I fitted a Prosport boost gauge last week and I can now see what is happening - when I stick the foot flat down the gauge goes right round to 1.5 bar and the car begins to pull, the pressure then drops off to 1.2 bar (the pulse feeling I mentioned) and maintains that pressure.

I don't know if this is meant to happen???

Surely if it can maintain 1.2 bar why can it not maintain the 1.5 bar??

Someone has already told me to lash the Bailey dump valve and go back to standard. If the dump valve was passing would it not be audible?

Any help would be appreciated,

Cheers in advance,

Craig.

Craig did you get this sorted just out of curiousity?

Alistair

Excuse my "noob-i-ness" here on this topic as I am on my first scoob.

53 STi UK PPP

I have had bother with the car when sitting on the motorway around 60ish and then putting the foot flat down (5th or 6th gear); the car would feel like it initially wants to take off, but then it pulses and backs off a little - still pulls like crazy, but for that initial split second it feels like it could have given a hell of a lot more.

I fitted a Prosport boost gauge last week and I can now see what is happening - when I stick the foot flat down the gauge goes right round to 1.5 bar and the car begins to pull, the pressure then drops off to 1.2 bar (the pulse feeling I mentioned) and maintains that pressure.

I don't know if this is meant to happen???

Surely if it can maintain 1.2 bar why can it not maintain the 1.5 bar??

Someone has already told me to lash the Bailey dump valve and go back to standard. If the dump valve was passing would it not be audible?

Any help would be appreciated,

Cheers in advance,

Craig.

You may find that the car was mapped by prodrive to prevent over-boost in a high load/high gear/mid range condition causing a drop off in boost target and waste gate duty cycle. I assume the boost also tapers to 1.2 bar at the redline?

Cheers

Alistair

Does anybody on here have 1 or knows anybody that has 1. it is on the scooby world web site was just lookin for info about fitment and is it worth it.

I run one my track car and it works perfectly. The pressure loss on the older design was not great but the more recent tube and fin design is much improved. There is alot of snobbery about them but there is nothing wrong with them for the money in my view.

found out that these are referred to as oil squirters

anyone got any spare? for sale? or know of contact/source that i can get these from?

cheers

stuart

Try Steve Whitson at SW Motorsport 07956119962. He has built many closed deck block units and may have some spare parts in the workshop.

Cheers

Alistair

Depends if he needs it fitted or not. A full set up should be around £2500 for 6spd, diff and shafts etc. plus fitting if he can't do it himself.

If he's running around 380 though his own box should cope if he's sensible and doesn't do too many hard launches. It's all down to what and how he'll use it.

Coulty runs a V5 box with around 400 and it's been ok for 2 years. When Playsatan was at the 410 mark he had the standard type r set up which coped fine.

Johnny

Generally it's the torque that kills 5 speeders, even the later TY54 models. I was running 401lbft of torque on one, in my own car which I never launched, accelerating in 3rd at about 70% throttle and doing 60-70 mph and stripped 3rd gear.

You will find that non DCCD 6 speed boxes are cheaper. I recently sourced a non DCCD 6 speed box from an 02 wrx with prop and diff, linkage etc for £1,500.

Cheers

Alistair

Hi Alistair, For the odd thing, not much now tbh. ECUEdit is far, far superior, not open source I know, but just makes analysing logs etc so much easier.

Cheers,

Paul

interesting - might have a butcher's at the trial version

Not sure what you're really asking tbh, but... There is no difference in the end result when mapping the OEM ECU with ECUTek or any of the opensource programs. It's down to the mapper at the end of the day. ECUTek is more expensive as you need to pay the license plus the mappers time first time around.

I use ECUEdit which isn't free but is damn near as good as the ECUTek product for mapping/logging/analysis etc.

Edit - Your car is likely to be ECUTek mapped actually.

Hi Paul are you still using Romraider as well just out interest?

Cheers

Alistair

oh booger - I think i have deleted it when trying to upload another clip. Will upload again.

Cheers John and thanks for arranging a great event as usual

Hi Folks - some quite amusing footage from the wagon today. Had to retire unfortunately due to a cracked exhaust manifold and issues with front brake caliper but a great afternoon anyway.

Jac- thanks again for the lower brace advice - it may a big difference with slicks

http://www.youtube.com/user/trackhoundtuni...l/1/HiAYi_QZJdM

you need to get the plastic inserts from a JDM wrx wagon which does not run with roof rails in order to fill in the gaps left

Cracking shots as always Neil

Here's a short video shot from my car.

oops, missed you today JC

Oh well, here's a few shots from today. There's 100+ on flickr from today, view as a slideshow if you like.

See you at the next trackday.

Those are cracking shots - there's a couple of wagon I'd like to save but can't seem to save the files from flickr? Is it set up to prevent the images being copied? Cheers. Alistair

I noticed one of your tires looking very low when we were talking, just assumed you had dropped the pressures right down

Yeh the slicks had seen better days I'm afraid. Roll on the toyos!

Had a great morning and the weather was fab. Unfortunatly couldn't stay for the afternoon session but it sounds like the weather held.

Looking foward to the next one.

Nice to meet you trackhound

P.S hope there are some photos

good to meet you too. sorry to hold up the session with my flat tyre!

I thought it was the 8th too.........

doh - you're right it's the 8th!

Hi folks - just wandering who is heading up to knockhill next saturday? Cheers Alistair

I am sure the guy selling it posts on here as trackhound. I think he has a bugeye wagon.

Hi guys yes it's my turbo as I have upgraded to an MD321T and you're right those figures were on my 2.5 on the hypertech rollers. Cheers.

Alistair

Hi Paul - Alistair here - the guy in the blue wagon. Thanks for the footage.

That's one quick evo of yours - really enjoyed sparing with you.

Forgot how wet it was until seeing the video! Also didn't realise I get intermittent flaming between gear changes!

I think it is the 4th video in your post where I appear. I couldn't get the first one to work. Are you going to the track day in August?

what would be the reason in doing this? would i be correct in "assuming" that a lazer gun would be lucky to get a correct reading off of the plate due to the holes in it? cant say ive ever heard any laws against drilling holes in number plates so im "assuming" again that its legal?

suspect it is for cooling purposes

Does anyone know the chap with the Black Evo who was on the track? The car was trucking quick. We had some boowsoot jousting on the track and he was recording the session. I almost lost it a couple of times keeping ahead of him. He paid me a visit in the pits to exchange some respect but I couldn't remember his name in the haze of vpower and methanol. :lol would be great to see his video footage.

Right,bought a code reader today and following codes came up-p0113-Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input) map sensor

and po340-camshaft position sensor malfunction.

erased both codes and took it for a half hour work out on back roads,up and down all gears and liht still off,i have faith it will come back tho!still seems underpowered too,i would think that timings out buy like half a tooth but according to dealer they checked timing and was ok,but then they thought it was an sti so that doesnt fill me with confidence....any ideas?and it was subaru dealership in aberdeen i used.

Interesting - so nothing to do with your cats then.

Re the high IAT code p113 - does the car by any chance have the standard airbox removed? If not it sounds like you may have a faulty MAF.

Re P340 Fuji Heavy Industries produced a bad batch of cam sensors for the early newage cars so this can be a common problem. I had the same problem on my car so I replaced it and all was fine.

If either of these sensors are faulty this will impact your performance. Neither are cheap unfortunately. If you can it might be worth borrowing the sensors from a friends car if possible to validate the fix before splashing out.