fmj

on what one ? the silicone induction hoses let the air flow quicker and smother due to no ridges in the pipework so you will get a performance gain

Yeah I know thats the idea but I have never seen any proof of it... I was reffering to actually feeling a performance gain. An extra 1bhp or so isn't going to be noticable. But I guess it all helps.

As above I got more MPG and better performance all around with a stock ECU remap. Always use the V Power it was mapped on tho...

They are supposed to be more reliable and they look pretty.... but you wont notice any performance gains at all.

Yeah if it was an early car then it would make sense but 99-00 can be EcuTek'd. I would get a full decat, an upgraded fuel pump and a green cotton panel filter. Make sure all your service items are up to date and then get it mapped. You should see 270-280bhp and the same sort of torque. Believe me you will feel it!

Unless you are planning on throwing £1000's at the car in the pursuit of big power why not just remap the standard ECU. With the one off license fee and rolling road time it will be far far cheaper and get you more power. With a decat on shell V power you should be able to see 270bhp easlily and the standard ECU will go higher then that with bigger injectors and turbo.

How will the MOT tester known if a OE ECU has been remapped? Will they all have to buy equipment to read every make of ecu? If they really limit the tyres to the original make then that would be crazy! Can you imagine only being able to buy one make and brand of tyre? What if that line is disscontinued? Scrap the car? Lol.

Remember that an MOT tester cannot take the car apart... so how will they remove trim, pull up the carpet, unbolt the ecu, open it up and check for a chip?

There was a thing a while ago about the EU wanting to ban all cars over 10 years old from the roads... Basically they want everyone to the drive identicle little eco cars. They want to price people out of driving in the name of the "green" arguement. So the rich will do what they want and jo public can make do with what they deem is suitable for us as there is just no need for us to have anything nice. All of my interests and hobbies are things that are frowned upon by various people and are constantly at risk of being banned or ruined, yet I am a sane sensible and nice person who does a very responsible grown up job. Scum bags of course dont follow the rules and do what they like... I'm getting off topic and need to go calm down lol.

Nice one, I think the bolt holes seem like a good way to tell!

Hi guys and girls,

I am after a set of V5/V6 cylinder heads. As I understand it these will be Version 2 heads. How can I ensure that the ones I buy are correct (Not very trusting of ebay sellers word that they are right). Are there any external differences or codes?

I brought one of these from Subaru a few years ago for about £260. As with every part it seems that Subaru have added lots onto the price yet again... I didnt want to trust a second hand one that may have the same problem or go wrong quickly.

£700? Blimey!

If it's the remap alone it's a LOT less than that... depends if you were meaning inclusive of "simple" mods etc?

Depends what ECU you are mapping. If its Ecutek and its the first time the license costs that much.

Please help me,why does my indicator lights stay on when I lock my car with the key fobs.it not all the time but it pisses me right off!

Mine does it rarely when I lock the car with the indicators on... I can usually reset it with a random combination of locking and unlocking with hazards on and off.

Hello everyone

I am looking to replace the MAF sensor in my MY99. I was wondering if there are any alternative brands of MAF sensors other than the Genuine Subaru MAF sensor (£118)? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Scooby_my99.

Not many to be honest.... You can only get the genuine ones. Some retailers sell them cheaper then that but not by much (cheapest I have seen is about £85). Subaru seem to keep increasing part prices too... I did recently see an advert for 99-00 MAF sensor modification but I don't know what this is and if it is a fix for the frequent need to replace them.

Two half decenet new tyres would be about £160-£180. A friendly tyre fitter will fit them for £10-£20.

A new wiper blade will cost £10-£15 for a normal one and you can fit it yourself.

An MOT is £50.

Remaps are about £700.

So thats most things covered and seems fairly realistic.

As for the service it depends what is needed.

Just for info my classic only has drivers switch illumination.... Not as silly as the famous "Bright" switch though....

hi all

i am after a rear diff for my impreza i need a 3.9 if anyone has got one for sale can you let me know ASAP

as car is at alan jefferys waiting for it to be fixed 07403821521 drop me a text if you got one

thanks dave

Try google for japperformance parts. They won't have them listed on the website but will have loads.

Yes mate no worries will try to scan it on.

ok thanks back to the drawing board I go,

No such thing as cheap tuning... But the TDO4 on your car will get you up to about 280 with a decat, pump and remap. I went from 220 to 270 and it made a VERY noticable difference.

Picked up the powder coated suspension parts today.... Well impressed! They have donea cracking job which the pictures just don't do justice. Nice even complete coverage and a smooth rock hard finish. The only bits that are uncoated (as you may see in some pics) are the parts that bushes and bolts fit into as it would make the fit too tight. It seems like a shame to hide these parts under the car now!

The finish:

The whole lot:

I'm so impressed that next time I am under the bonnet I will be looking to see which parts I can pull out to be coated!

I ordered the bolt caps yesterday and am going to order some coil wrap for the springs tonight. The next few days I will be fitting the bushes into these components so they are ready to be swapped. The build starts on the 14th (I have booked a week off work for it). So stay tuned.

Cheers guys, I will hopefully get the powder coated bits back tomorrow. Just got home from work and Im ordering bolt caps at 0220hours lol...

Well the front wishbones bushes were burnt out using all of the gas at the garage lol... But I then realised I still had to remove the front bushes from the trailing arms... BUGGER. Luckily the rubber part of these is much bigger then the wishbone bushes were so I could attack them with a drill until they came free. I then cut the metal outer with a hacksaw and knocked them out with a chisel. They put up quite a fight!

Success!

The complete set of suspension components with ALL bushes removed:

These parts have now been delivered to a metal finishers to strip and apply a blue powder coat.

I have also had some more deliveries:

Electric impact wrench (works bloody well)

Extensions for above (I already have the sockets)

A decent jack as every cheap one I have every brought has failed

Ratchet axle stands

One of Scoobywords car covers

Bits for restoration

And some more waxoyl just to be sure

Quick (and not very exciting) update. I gave the front wishbones over to a local garage so that they could press out the old bushes. They couldn't press them out but have now managed to burn them out. I will be picking them up tomorrow. I also got a qoute of £50 to have the wishbones, lateral link arms and trailing arms powder coate which I will drop off next week.

I also went on an ebay spending spree and brought a lightwieght low profile racing trolley jack, ratchet axle stands, Waxoyl starter kit and 5ltr refill, several wire brushes and dremel attachments to remove any rust and a car cover from scooby world.... because I want to keep the car covered over while its not in use and while I am using messy waxoyl underneath.

from memory alk bolts were done up tighter than rest, may be worth cracking them undone a turn before getting car in air.

inner tie rod has tab thats bent over as locking device, i broke a screwdriver trying to undo it, just ended up using big key on tie rod and tab moved as a result.

if your removing rear subframe might be worth squirting some penetrating fluid up holes in chassis rails next to bolts day or so before. They go into nuts welded inside chasis and i had misfortune to break one of these loose on an previous uk car. this resulted in cutting hole in chassis then welding back up (right next to fuel tank).

Nice one, all good stuff to be prepared for!

Nice Tips from people who have some experience is always good! I am also going to get some rubber bolt caps so hopefully I can cap all the nuts and bolts and stop them from rusting this time around... I am a bit scared that I will come to a point where I can't get something undone but hopefully the impact wrench will handle everything my brute force can't.

So about a year ago I had a plan. Renew all the suspension components on my 11 year old Classic. I didn't really want to go down the route of rock hard coil overs and decided to go for a full set of poly bushes, new KYB dampers, sensible lowering springs and some whiteline ARB's. My aim was to get the aging suspension back to as new condition and do all the work myself.

I started out buying a set of whiteline drop links and a genuine STI carbon fibre strut brace costing about £300 in total:

Next I planned on getting all of the other parts over a long period (as I couldn't afford it in one go) and then at the end fitting it all myself at the same time as waxoyling the arches.

Dampers arrive from Camskill:

Next month it was the springs again from Camskill:

Next were the bushes from.... you guessed it Camskill. They may not look much but a full set cost me about £200 and that was without the large front wishbone bush.

Rather then get the Polybush replacement for the large front wishbone bush at about £80 I decided to go for a whiteline ALK which cost £130 and included the bush.

As I was buying these parts I was looking under the car and saw just how rusted some bits had gotten over the years so decided to replace the track rod ends... Then I saw this kit from White Line on sccobyparts and couldn't resist.

Then new track rods to go with it again from Camskill.

Camskill again for the ARB's adjustable front and back.

Now at this point I was thinking I had pretty much everything I needed for shiny new suspension set-up. Hopefully as good if not better then when the car rolled out of the show room, but not as harsh as a set of coil overs.

I then found a set of wishbones, lateral link arms and trailing arms on ebay with no rust from a jap car for a bargain price. I brought these and now plan on having them powder coated before fitting them.

I then looked to see if there was any weak links in my plan (old parts I would have to reuse which may be worn out). I decided to get some new top mounts. I first looked at some Tien pillow ball mounts but was advised against this by the chap who designed suspension for Prodrive as he said they were noisey and harsh and OE ones would be better. I also asked about bump stops and again he said for my setup OE ones would be ok. Knowing an expensive call to my local Subaru dealer was about to take place I listed the various bolts, nuts and washers that I would need to put all of these bits togehter as I would probably destroy to original rusted ones in their removal. Before making the dreaded call I decided that as I was fitting everything else new I might as well get new spring seats and dust boots too. I emailed the list to my local dealer and awaited their reponse. The total.... £1070! Credit card in hand I made the call and paid up. A week or so later this arrived:

All of the fittings needed:

The boots dust boots and bump stops:

Steering gaiters:

Top mounts & spring seats:

THE INVOICE!!! Never had a two pager before!

Now I have recently bashed the old bushes out of the lateral link arms and trailing arms but the small bush in the front wishbone is a bitch. I have attacked it with a blow torch, drill, dead blow hammer, compressor I made from a G-clamp (It bent the clamp). Didn't budge one bit. So today I took it to a garage where the chap said you sometimes need to get the metal glowing before if will come out. Hopefull I will pick them up tomorrow debushed!

Next I will be getting the wishbones, lateral link arms, trailing arms and ARB brackets powder coated. I am thinking of a blue gloss.

After that I will be getting the last bits including:

An impact wrench

New ali racing trolley jack

ratchet axle stands

waxoyl kit

Hopefully I already have everything else I need!

I will do some before and after pics when I start getting my hands dirty and share any issues I have.

All in all I have spent far more then I originally planned to. Mainly due to not realising how expensive top mounts, bump stops and spring seats were!

Fingers crossed I can fit it all myself without have to go to a garage.

My Classic does this too... partly the pedel and partly under intercooler.