fmj

Don't forget to try to avoid airlocks. Make sure to use deionised water mixed with the coolant and not just tap water. I always use this guide I copied and pasted ages ago from here. "Disconnect top hose (rad end) and slowly fill engine through top port until full. Reconnect top rad hose. Disconect the small hose that goes from the H/T to the rad (highest point of rad) at the rad end. Fill Via H/T whilst keeping finger over the hose, when coolant comes out the rad pop the hose back on. Continue to fill via the header tank untill a couple of cm from the top. Fill expansion tank. Massage top and bottom hoses to get air bubble out. With rad cap left of, set the heater and fan controlls to medium and start car. Allow the car a few mins for hot air to start to come through the fans, keep checking for this as you keep an eye on the level in the header tank and top up a little when required. Massage top and bottom hoses to get air bubble out. As the hot air is now coming through the fans, and the level in the H/T is stable with no air bubles be expelled, its safe to put the rad cap on. Job Done." Usually does me well.

Here is the best thread I have found about doing it properly. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f138/t171256-my-rear-quarter-rust-repair.html

Unfortunately it goes there on most classics. I will bet that there will be a lot more rust hidden up inside the arch which I think causes this corner to rust from behind. You can get it rubbed off both sides and resprayed but when I had a body shop do this it came back less then a year later. The only way to get rid for good is to cut out the rusty bit and replace or fill.

Cant help with the mapper but has the car been mapped before? If its still on the standard map and you are running with those mods you could be doing some serious damage.

Seriously, I did mine on a classic back when I didn't really know what I was doing. It was easy. I just cut down an allen key and then put a socket on the end of it and out came the plug. Your not going to strip a thread undoing something! The only time you strip threads is when you either do something up far too tight or when you cross thread it. Neither of those things will happen if you do it up hand tight and then tighten it a sensible amount. As for striping the head of the plug. If you use a decentish quality allen key you wont Its a nice chunky fitting and fill take a lot of abuse. I would far rather that then have all that stuff under the car. Not only is it not the best place to read the temp but its all pretty vulnerable under there and you are more likely to get a leak not to mention those wires.

Having completed my epic suspension upgrade (every sinlge nut, bolt, bush and component) last year. I am now waiting for a carbon fibre STI 6 spoiler for my classic to replace the GRP version which has cracked paint and rusty water dripping out of it from shitty cheap screws used inside where it fills with water.... I do find myself constantly spending money replacing things that ought not to need replacing! The next plan is a big brake kit and then a semi clossed deck forged bottom end with a bigger turbo, braded fuel lines and 740 injectors. P.s. ref the rust if its anything like mine you need to look right up inside the arch where the strut is mounted to the chassis. You will probably find the outer side is completely made of rust causing water to get inside the arch and run down behind the outer arch pannel cuasing more rust there.

Must be driving style as I have 4's on my classic and they have done over 21'000 miles and still have loads of tread left. If they are down to the cords thats a sign you should be checking more often as you are close to a potentially fatal blowout and six points on your license if you are caught.

I will aim to be at Chippenham for 7:15 then

Excellent I had my scooby for the last Japfest but left it too late to get a stand pass. I have been for the last three years and it never fails to be a great day.

Hey guys and girls. I have just brought a stand pass and ticket and was wondering if you are planning on a convoy to the event? If so where is the RV? Oh and I am a member, its just not showing here due to technical difficulties lol.

See my reply in general discussion. I never thought of thaking the beam off with the bumper still attached but I guess either way works.

Did a DB9 a while ago but somehow I don't think his heart was really in it. Its pretty pointless unless you know they are trying their hardest and everyone pushes to a different point even then.

Depends how hard the porsche was trying

Before I had my scooby I had a modded 306 that I had spent about £3000 on bits. I was insured with adrian flux who also do like for like mods covered. When the assesor came he valued my car at £1100 which was actaully lower then book! He said it was because modded cars are worth less. Pretty pissed off with this I proceded to strip everything from the car and left a right mess for the salvage company to pick up. I never had any complaints from them as the assesors report doesnt detail what extra parts were fitted or anything the salvage company were none the wiser. As far as like for like goes I think if you write the car off and the mods are not damaged you just get to take them off and keep them as well as getting the pay out for the car.

Cheers, I will check back for the details!