_jac_ Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 I think my MAF sensor is bust. I need help from a new age owner that will let me change over the sensor to see if this is the problem. I am not getting any boost and the idle is lumpy. checked the hoses and they are ok. It would only take 2 min to change the sensor. Thanks JAC
SEEVERS Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 Jac,is yours a Bugeye model....? If so you can try mine if you like mate. You should still have my number from last time. Del.
_jac_ Posted February 2, 2007 Author Posted February 2, 2007 Yes its a bugeye m8. that would be grate if you could help me out i will pm you my moby no. Thanks JAC
fai17 Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 I have one to borrow if you need it as i no longer use one[] Call me if you need it and i think you know my number[]
hammy Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 alright mate i am having boost problems aswell i am only getting 10 psi are you getting the same.
diffbuster Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 ECU Diagnostics The ECU can diagnose any fault that may arise due to abnormal signals that are sent to the controller. The ECU Check Engine Light (CEL) will illuminate in the instrument console if there is a problem with any of the computers inputs. It is possible to find which sensor is faulty by following these steps: · Turn ignition OFF. · Connect read memory connectors. These are the small black connectors under the steering column above the pedals. · Turn ignition key to the ON position (Engine OFF) · Engine Check Light turns on · Code is indicated by Pulsing light - See below · If Code is OK Turn ignition OFF disconnect the black connectors · If CEL returns a number of different pulsing lights then check the ECU code table. · Turn ignition to the OFF position. Disconnect the black connectors. · If there is a fault, then check the appropriate sensor. The ECU codes are displayed as pulses of the CEL. If CEL goes out there is no fault. In Diagnostic Mode – No Fault is indicated by the CEL continuously & evenly flashing on/off (this is also used to indicate the successful completion of an ECU Reset) SEE "OK code" in diagram below. The long pulses (1.3 Seconds) indicate Tens and the short pulses (0.2 Seconds) indicate ones. Pulses are separated by Short Pauses (0.2 Seconds), multiple codes are separated by a Long Pause (1.8 Seconds) SEE "Trouble codes" in diagram & examples below. The simplest way for an inexperienced mechanic to retrieve codes is to write the codes down in a sort of Morse Code (dots and dashes), and start a new line when you get a 1.8 Second pause (for NEW code), and then add the actual numbers up after code retrieval is completed. Code ITEM 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 Starter switch 13 Camshaft position sensor 21 Engine coolant temperature sensor 22 Knock sensor 23 Mass air flow sensor 24 Idle air control solenoid 31 Throttle position sensor 32 Oxygen sensor 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2 35 Purge control solenoid valve 42 Idle switch 44 Wastegate control solenoid valve 45 Pressure sensor – Pressure exchange solenoid valve 51 Neutral position switch once this is done you can reset the ecu if you want by connecting black and green conectos together turn the key to on position then press accelerator to the floor then halfway up for 2 seconds then start car then travel at a speed of over 5 MPh untill the ok code flashes "DO NOT RAGG THE CAR WHILST RESETTING Report abuse Quick Reply
st3ph3n Posted February 2, 2007 Posted February 2, 2007 diffbuster - that's for a classic, these guys have new ages.
diffbuster Posted February 3, 2007 Posted February 3, 2007 Apologies, i am showing my ignorance its a classic i keep breaking didnt know newage cars dont have connectors.
hammy Posted February 3, 2007 Posted February 3, 2007 mine is booked ito to subaru on tuesday but not sure if they will be able to sort it tho it due a service aswell
_jac_ Posted February 4, 2007 Author Posted February 4, 2007 Yes hammy mine was showing no boost swapped the maf over but still the same prob.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> A good look under the bonnet and we discovered the vacuum pipe from the fpr to the Inlet manifold had come of. Once attached that was it back to 1.63 bar again happy days.
_jac_ Posted February 4, 2007 Author Posted February 4, 2007 Thanks again Peter for your help your a top bloke [Y]
the squiggle Posted February 4, 2007 Posted February 4, 2007 Quote Thanks again Peter for your help your a top bloke [Y] So are you for a great breakfast reccomendation ....and for letting me drag race your car aginst 75year old Ina Watts from Springburn, she nearly had us due to her rolling start but as soon as the clutch was dumped it was game over and victory number one to the cyp_rock
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