What would you do next ?

[mctwistuk]

This will bring the temp of the coolant down by a fair bit and in turn reduces the temp of the oil when up at operating temp.

Some advice given to me from one of the professors on here.

chris

 

[drb5]

Chris has got it right.

If i were you Peter, there is no harm in fitting the stat. AlanG always used to say to drill your OE stat, but for all the cost of a Zerosports, it isn't money thrown away IMHO.

Oil and coolant work together in keeping the overall temps lower. Oil temp above 120 degrees is getting serious, but i do know of people getting to this temp and not bothering with an oil cooler....and it is their opinion and not just about not caring. These temps, you won't get on the road. Too many things have you going slow, ie: other road users, roads you don't know well enough, weather conditions and the missus.

I used to see 115 degrees oil temps with the 2.5 quite easily. Since i fitted the new turbo and thermostat, i have seen an absolute max of 105 and that was including the day of mapping.

The stat has dropped the coolant temp by circa 10 degrees overall too.

[drb5]

I'm hearing you Dave. Fair comment regarding the road driving V the oil temp.

I guess it can depend on the driver and his manner of driving.

I know that for the likes of K Hill and tight road sections , ie.twisty sections where the cars not out of 2nd and 3rd and not getting a good flow of air through it, the oil cooler makes for a worth while addition.

Hot oil =thin oil= Rattle rattle[]

Dont think many folk bother with these as they dont make a noise, look shiney or make it go any faster.

However[:|]

Lol indeed.

Personally, i wouldn't expect a road car to ever need an oil cooler, only a car that gets used on track and such likes, where you can be on throttle and high revving for a lot longer.

I know when i had the RA, i never ran the thing as hard on the road, as i did at knockhill.

[drb5]

FFS. Somone wanna explain the deal with quotes and smilies to me?!

They were working fine a while ago?

[st3ph3n]

Dave I'm guessing you have IE7. The forum software and it don't get on. There is a fix which will hopefully be applied soon.

With regards to your oil temps, and going by a conversation at Peter's on Saturday evening with the rest of the OSIDC - where abouts in the engine is your oil temp sensor located?

We were discussing differences in temps between the different locations in the engine. My sensor is fitted into the oil gallery above cylinder 3, as per PSI3's recommended location. I believe the temps here are higher than in the sump, which is where the O-adapter/doughnut thing is located?

I was thinking about one of the Zerosports thermostats as it would be good for trackdays to lower the temps, although I never peaked above 115 at the last one.

[drb5]

Cheers Stephen. Dunno what i'm running tbh. Computers just aren't my bag.

My oil temp sensor has been and always will be placed where you have yours...above cylinder 3.

The 2.5's are well known to run hotter than the 2 litres, so it's no surprise you only seen up to 115 on a trackday.

[fai17]

Do anyone want a Group buy on the thermostat....

Where does the thermostat go?

What does it look like?

I only see 120degrees at KH and i'll come off the track normally before that.

Thanks for the info Dave[Y]

See you learn something new eveyday.

Always something to buy even when you think you've all things covered.[]

It's never ending but i still love it.

[mctwistuk]

Peter,

I would be interested in this if there is a group buy. ]" src="/emoticons/emotion-5.gif">

 

[WUZ]

Thermostat fits inside the Water pump, job takes about 15 mins all in to change it and you need to drain out all your coolant (good time for a change B4 the winter sets in!).

Russell

[_jac_]

David Hendry cars

By installing Coolthermo drivers can significantly reduce the coolant temperature by 7 degrees and circulating the coolant at around 71 degrees. Coolthermo contributes to coolant temperature increase prevention & maintains the optimal power delivery environment.

All models £45.08 (0310002)

Thanks for the advice.. I don’t think you could go wrong in fitting one of these

Will order one

Cheers

Jac

[mctwistuk]

i have emailed the above company asking about a group buy and will keep everyone posted as to the outcome.

 

[fai17]

i have emailed the above company asking about a group buy and will keep everyone posted as to the outcome.

 

Nice one son[]

[_jac_]

nice one Chris...

[mctwistuk]

if anyone is interested in the above then please let me know so i have an indication of how many units will be needed and may be able to drive a deal if i have a figure to go with.

cheers

chris

[drb5]

Lol, i organised a group buy on these not too long ago!

Might take one or two if you get another GB going though.

No worries Peter/cyp_rock.

[ANDYJDMSTI]

Do anyone want a Group buy on the thermostat....

 

No ta.......already got one!  []

I noticed a difference in temp after fitting mine. Good bit of kit!

[DaveHelium]

i would be interested in one of these also cheers

[higgy]

Hello all

I am needing one aswell as i am normaly runing around 110degrees on the road, but after the rebuild i would like peace of minde that the temps dont get to high.

 

Cyp-rock  You should get wat you can aford .No 1 a good set of headers, no2  tdo5. 20 g turbo from Andy  No 3 uprated fuel pump  no4 front mount intercooler and a set of 650cc injectors

this would give yo ua relyable power delivery with minimal lag.

 

 

Higgy

[fai17]

[Y]I'll take one

[mctwistuk]

Guys,

The company i contacted to try and organise a group buy can't supply until early next year due to low stocks.

I will keep looking for alternative supplier.

It was David Hendry i contacted so if anyone has any other suggestions please let me know and i will follow up.

Chris

[fai17]

Ok boss[]

[_jac_]

Guys,

The company i contacted to try and organise a group buy can't supply until early next year due to low stocks.

I will keep looking for alternative supplier.

It was David Hendry i contacted so if anyone has any other suggestions please let me know and i will follow up.

Chris

Hi Chris

Just dun a search for them and AWD advertise them and crazysubaru.com not sure what there stock levels are thou...

Cheers

JAC

[JamesF]

Get the headers first then get the 18G turbo fitted then a remap. You wont have to get it mapped for the headers as the car will still run normally, obviously you wont get much benefit until its mapped. If you want to save yourself time and money stick with the 18G as the 20G requires modification to the engine block to allow it to fit (grinding away at it actually). This doesn't damage the car but is costly and in my opinion unecessary.

I've just went down this route and can speak from experiance. I got my standard headers ported and heat wrapped, a ported and heat wrapped up pipe and heat wrapped a decatted down pipe then got an AndyF 18G. Mapped a fortnight ago and pulled 340bhp and 330ft lbs torque.

Andy showed me a graph of a 20G'd car next to mine and there was no difference in torque or bhp unti about 5500rpm. Even at that Andy said it would be unlikely you would notice it in a straight line.

I've got a spare set of headers in my shed of you want to go down that route. Saves you taking your ones off then having the car off the road for a few weeks. £100 and there yours.

You should also consider NGK Grade 7 plugs (Scoobyworld sells them at around £40) as the greater volumes of heat will melt your existing plugs. Your fuel pump etc will all be fine.

20G is great for the track and Crail but a bit overkill for a b road bomber.

James.

[_jac_]

Hi Higgy

thanks for the input... did you have the 18g your selling on your car and think the 20g is the way to go...

cheers

JAC

[_jac_]

Get the headers first then get the 18G turbo fitted then a remap. You wont have to get it mapped for the headers as the car will still run normally, obviously you wont get much benefit until its mapped. If you want to save yourself time and money stick with the 18G as the 20G requires modification to the engine block to allow it to fit (grinding away at it actually). This doesn't damage the car but is costly and in my opinion unecessary.

I've just went down this route and can speak from experiance. I got my standard headers ported and heat wrapped, a ported and heat wrapped up pipe and heat wrapped a decatted down pipe then got an AndyF 18G. Mapped a fortnight ago and pulled 340bhp and 330ft lbs torque.

Andy showed me a graph of a 20G'd car next to mine and there was no difference in torque or bhp unti about 5500rpm. Even at that Andy said it would be unlikely you would notice it in a straight line.

I've got a spare set of headers in my shed of you want to go down that route. Saves you taking your ones off then having the car off the road for a few weeks. £100 and there yours.

You should also consider NGK Grade 7 plugs (Scoobyworld sells them at around £40) as the greater volumes of heat will melt your existing plugs. Your fuel pump etc will all be fine.

20G is great for the track and Crail but a bit overkill for a b road bomber.

James.

HI James

I like the sound of your car and a few folk have said there is not much of a difference from A to B between the 18g and 20g apart from the top end... In saying that i was on a spirited run up the campsie hills last night and didnt see below 4k+ on the rev counter... I am looking to get 360/380bhp, if this was poss on an 18g i think i would go for it... Hypertech recommended the grade 7s to me in the last service...How much did you pay for the porting of ur headers...?

Thanks for the input

Cheers

JAC