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Posted

Hi guys looking for some help, finally fitted my car back together after a melted piston and rings and waiting a long time for the parts to arrive anyway, i have got the timing belt on, all marks lining up correct but the engine is running to 3000rpms then dying out and some times just idles really rough and sounds like back firing any ideas, i have had the belt on and off many times to try reseting it also putting the old belt back on to try but with no joy, the only thing that my dad and i can think is the cam pulleys on the right have spring loaded tention when set to marks but the left hand side are free turning can anyone say this is correct?? good news is that all four cylinders have full compression at approx 140psi again so sorted that problem.

Posted

Right...

Had that problem a few years back on my first scooby.

Your right in what your saying about the N/S pullys. They are on the rock and want to spring off cam where as the O/S cams are okay and sit well.

I had the specail tools for setting the timing and I couldnt get it to run properly, had the car at a subaru garage and still wouldnt run.

Almost had the heads off and then I gave the car to a rally prep company and they tried it with the tools too....came up a blank.

That was until they threw away the tools and simply held the N/S cams with Vise grips to stop them from turning.

Once it was set this way the car ran as sweet as a nutface-icon-small-wink.gif

Now I never bother about special tools. Just use the vise grips or you can use a spanner on the nuts, but make sure you dont slacken the pullys.

It sometimes works first time you try, if so its great, but be prepared for a few tries.

I take it you know how the tensioner works? Compress it in the vice and slip a pin or a small screwdiver in then fit it and set the belt.

Dont mean to sound like an Ass for saying that, just making sureface-icon-small-wink.gif

The secret is realy just patience. Take your time and get a second pair of hands to hold those pullysface-icon-small-wink.gif

Posted

Exactly what i would have said but it would have taken forever and a day to type out using the old 2 finger Squirrel technique.

Greersport use the exact same method with the vice grips

Grant

Posted

yeah dont have the tools just using allan keys sockets and our hands, we got it first time a month or so ago when i done the valves but had to strip it back down for the piston replacment, yeah we just stick a small allen key into the tensioner then pull it out when all lined up. but just cant seem to get it on rite this time just need to try until it purrs. cheers fellas.

Posted

ah cars there only good when they work, just can not get this thing to run smooth. looks like another nite under the hood.

Posted

You sure the marks are lining up ok?

If so, then the problem is defo elsewhere! Just saying this, as it sound's too much like something else right now?

Posted

You should be able to tell it's a tooth out without having to start the thing though.

Get it all lined up and turn it 2 on the crank shaft. Once the line is twice round, the cam pulleys should still line up perfectly also.

Remember you need to remove and replace 3 or 4 pulleys to get the belt on correctly and easily.

Posted

thats what it does all rite, bangs and hiss's, getting fed up takin that bloody belt on and off, oh drb5 did u hear madmonk (moncur) wrote his car off 2 weeks ago.

Posted

Yeah dood. He came down to the work, as he was going round to Woodyard, but wanted to know about removing his gear first.

Piss poor luck bud.face-icon-small-sad.gif

Posted

Marks can trow you off a little though I think.

It looks like its okay because you assume that if its round one more tooth then it will be too far one way or the other, but its actualy not.

Dont know if that made sense?? face-icon-small-tongue.gifface-icon-small-tongue.gif

Posted

I understood mateface-icon-small-wink.gif, but it should show if you've turned it over twice after fitting it.

Best bet is to remove the radiator and bumper, then you can see STRAIGHT at the belt/pulleys.

Posted

he pics up an audi a6 2.5 tdi on monday i think, said somthing about maybe starting a new job in aberdeen so went for the sensible diesel until he knows whats happening. anyway away to get the bird from work then back under the bonnet, one of the draw backs of using her car while mine is off the road. i am going to try half a click out as it always seems to end up that way. its really doing my head in now not had my car running for 2 months now.

Posted

Did you use new Inlet Manifold gaskets as they can cause all sorts of issues if not replaced (ie, not sealing properly) I causes the car to spit and pop and whiste and fart!

If they are OK, I agree that the Cams are 1 tooth out.

Russell

Posted

cheers wuz i took ur coments on board and done a bit of tinkering about today on the brief, and i found thats it is diffenetly an air suction fault, i took of the top mounted intercooler and started the car with a direct air flow into the carb and the turbo and it ran like a dream a wee bit fast but i put that down to a rich air mix but no missfire or poping into the exhaust which is the main thing, then i stuck it back on and it started popping straight away, so i have ordered 2 inlet manifold gaskets and i hope that will do the trick.

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