AlanG Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 Just had a think Fee... Rather than disconnect the boost solenoid (which is tucked into the corner of the strut tower on the drivers side and has either 2 or 3 small hoses attached to it), it may be better to run a small hose from the outlet of the turbo compressor to the wastegate. Reason for this is that you may get a check engine light coming on with the solenoid disconnected (can't remember. It's been that long since i had a std ecu!). Running a hose between the compressor outlet and the wastegate will reduce your boost pressure to around 7 psi and so less likely to cause any det. The reason for having a boost solenoid on the car is to allow the car to run more boost, governed by the ecu, yet if the solenoid fails, the car will only produce whatever the wastegate is set at. In your case, approximately 7psi. Hope this makes sense!! Having said that, if you're not confident in whats going on under the bonnet, i would leave alone and try a little more NF to put your mind at rest. I really don't think there's much wrong provided the car hasn't been modified since the rolling road day. To check the error codes, there are two conectors under the dashboard on the drivers side. A pair of black ones, and a pair of green ones. Connect like for like. When you switch on the ignition, ignore the noises you might hear (fan, or a solenoid clicking) and look at the check engine light. If it flashes in what looks like a sequence, this will be the error code for whatever sensor has failed. For example if the check engine light flashes 2 flashes one after another, then a slight pause and then four flashes one after another, this indicates an error code of 24. There is a list of error codes available, but let's find out if there are any in the first place. And remember when you finish checking, to disconnect the two sets of plugs, otherwise the car will drive like a burst couch!
Fee Posted July 19, 2005 Author Posted July 19, 2005 Right...ok...think I'll definitely give the hose thing a miss!! Will check the ECU and up the OB If not I'll give dastek a phone too, see if they can give me any info on the fuelling, and maybe Wallace Performance...they fitted the KL Cheers
Nelsdir Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 Without stepping on Alans toes - read the ECU codes 1st - if you do black-black and green-green you'll reset it without knowing of there were codes there in the 1st place. Just connect black-black and see what you get.
AlanG Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 As Nelsdir says... Forgot about the reset.. doh! Told you it's a long time since i had a std ecu!..
Fee Posted July 19, 2005 Author Posted July 19, 2005 Right I've checked the ECU codes...thats all ok Put in some more OB and went for a run.... the kl display doesnt seem to be showing any pattern at some points...can be driving along at 40mph with it flashing on the first green...and then it will just go up to the top amber without anything changing....it did the same at 80mph. Could this be due to one of the sensors being loose? Where are the sensors? In 3rd/4th gear as soon as I go up near 5000rpm it will flash amber, sometimes red...then sometimes stay completely on green When I had it at Dastek, they took it up to 8,000rpm and said it was running perfect
johnnyr6 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 It sounds like noise to me, who fitted the sensor? is it tight and where was it fitted? I get all the lights to light up on mine if i keep it on the max setting due to noise, prob due to clutch bearing and where it is positioned?
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Gerry wouldn't have keeping his eye on the KL, nor do i think they can't tell if it's detting, only fuel ratio. You need to get someone with some det can's to listen to it.....i wonder who has them!
Fee Posted July 20, 2005 Author Posted July 20, 2005 the knocklink wasnt on at the time who has them?
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Where about's are you based again? I am thinking about Edinburger for some reason?
AlanG Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 The aftermarket knocklink sensor is usually mounted on the inlet manifold or on the rear of the engine close to the centre (where the gearbox meets the engine). It will have two thin black wires (joined together side by side)leading to it . As an aside, somebody can correct me if i'm wrong, but if there's det, then surely the ecu will be retarding the igniton cause the cars' original sensor would detect it?
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Damn right Alza. Fee isn't the only one i know having problems like this at the mo either....and i don't mean me!
john_robertson Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 << The aftermarket knocklink sensor is usually mounted on the inlet manifold or on the rear of the engine close to the centre (where the gearbox meets the engine). It will have two thin black wires (joined together side by side)leading to it . As an aside, somebody can correct me if i'm wrong, but if there's det, then surely the ecu will be retarding the igniton cause the cars' original sensor would detect it? >> I thought it was meant to be fitted to the engine not the inlet. John.
AlanG Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 The original sensor is fitted near to the centre of the block at the back of the engine. The knocklink sensor tends to be fitted on one of the inlet manifold runners or on the block on a spare threaded hole as near to the original sensor as possible, usually close to the gearbox bellhousing.
AlanG Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 << Fee isn't the only one i know having problems like this at the mo either....and i don't mean me! >> Doesn't mean anything or make sense to me..
john_robertson Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 << The original sensor is fitted near to the centre of the block at the back of the engine. The knocklink sensor tends to be fitted on one of the inlet manifold runners or on the block on a spare threaded hole as near to the original sensor as possible, usually close to the gearbox bellhousing. >> Personnally never seen it fitted to the Inlet manifold always seen it fitted to the block, surely it os debateable as to how much use it woould be when mounted on the inlet. John.
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 << << Fee isn't the only one i know having problems like this at the mo either....and i don't mean me! >> Doesn't mean anything or make sense to me.. >> I know, just didn't want to say too much on here, incase they weren't happy with me saying.
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 << << The original sensor is fitted near to the centre of the block at the back of the engine. The knocklink sensor tends to be fitted on one of the inlet manifold runners or on the block on a spare threaded hole as near to the original sensor as possible, usually close to the gearbox bellhousing. >> Personnally never seen it fitted to the Inlet manifold always seen it fitted to the block, surely it os debateable as to how much use it woould be when mounted on the inlet. John. >> If it's fitted to the block itself, it tends to pick up a lot more noise and not nessiceraly(sp?) more knock.
ozzy Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 I fitted my sensor to the engine block Location Stefan
drb5 Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Fee, don't worry about it. I'll have a gander and if anything isn't right, i'm sure something can be done to sort it.
AlanG Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Yep, the majority are fitted to the engine block as close to the original as possible. This makes the most sense and maximises the likelyhood of picking up any engine noise. It will still detect det on an inlet manifold runner though as the frequency passes through from the cylinder chamber up into the head and on to the inlet manifold..
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