Vimmy Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 Finally removed the carbon canister from the car last night and rerouted the myriad of hoses and one way valves. I've spent ages trying to research how the system works and was finally confident enough to take the useless item out. It's probably the placebo effect but the car felt like it was running smoother on the run in to work and so far no fumes to be noticed in the cabin
mark1234 Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 it's there to draw the fumes from the tank through and reburn them so you don't get an excess of petrol fumes building up in the tank
Vimmy Posted August 10, 2010 Author Posted August 10, 2010 (edited) Nah, no going back now its all packed away for a rainyday I have the existing two way valve in place and a small fuel filter inline and then vented under the rear of the engine bay...I'll have to watch out for funny whiffs appearing just dont drive too close behind me Edited August 10, 2010 by Vimmy
mark1234 Posted August 11, 2010 Posted August 11, 2010 remember when it's on boost the system won't be active or you'd put boost pressure in to the tank and the system only works when your on a vacuum i.e over run. what are you hoping to gain from removing it?
Vimmy Posted August 11, 2010 Author Posted August 11, 2010 Hi Mark, I was looking to reduce the level of unwanted/extra air going into the air intake, compared to just purely having outside air. Even though, as I understand it, the canister is designed to remove deposits and vapours from the tank and reinsert them and then reburn them, it wont get rid of them all. Why would you want to contaminate good clean, colder air with these reconstituted 'extras', as such, as the ecu then has fuel correspondingly to get a decent output measured at the O2 sensor. As the purging is done on overrun then the ecu will fuel at the same rate/level and there will a tad extra air in the system, thats how I understand it. The current O2 sensor is only narrowband so probably less accurate than a wideband sensor for seeing these minor differences and hence slower in time to react perhaps. If this is the case and the ecu cant react quick enough to change the fuelling, does this mean its going to run a little lean at these times? My other reason was that I need some space for some extra cold air feeds, if there comes a point where the fumes are causing concern I will probably reconnect the tank output back to the canister but again vent to atmos, the canister would have done its job by then? Cheers, Col
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now