Knocklink Wiring

[DR Motosport]

When I sold the track car, I kept hold of the knocklink. Now I'm going to be tracking my New-age STi, I want to build the knocklink into the dash rather than having the ugly black box on show.

So has anyone rewired the lights into the dash, and any tips.

Davy

[RA Dunk]

When I sold the track car, I kept hold of the knocklink. Now I'm going to be tracking my New-age STi, I want to build the knocklink into the dash rather than having the ugly black box on show.

So has anyone rewired the lights into the dash, and any tips.

Davy

Alright Dave , I seem to remember seeing a thread think it was on scoobynet about somebody who did something like this AFAIK they transplanted the lights somewhere next to their speedo, it was just the bare lights though think there was about five in total

[sti pretender]

I'm sure Playsatan has then fitted in the top of the speedo/clock housing so their right in his eyeline.

[RA Dunk]

Found this on scoobynet

[DR Motosport]

Cheers Dunk, found a couple of threads on Scoobynet.

Just need to get the soldering iron looked out now, or find a more confident volunteer.

[wilky]

Cheers Dunk, found a couple of threads on Scoobynet.

Just need to get the soldering iron looked out now, or find a more confident volunteer.

Dave, Colin (Gaysatan2) extended his led's somehow or lengthened the wiring, Ive seen it in his dash similar to the style shown in the above photo but I never got a look at how he did it, might be worth dropping him a message.

Callum

[scoobykev]

I've got the same setup in my car as the pic above, i'm sure mine was converted by Wuz on here. It has about 18" of wire added from the box, which i hid under my centre gauge pod.

[colin_ross]

Thanks for the intro Winky.

I'm a bit cack handed with the old soldering iron and I also wanted it right in my line of sight. So I ended up with this,

Took about half an hour all in.

Just removed the case, used the holes in it for a template and drilled through the clock surround. Don't even have to take my eyes off the road as if it triggers any lights you can see them easily.

The whole thing is up there. Just ran the wires up behind the dash and over the top of the clocks. You don't even have to take the clocks out.

Theres only two screws holding the clocks surround on, just remove it and tape the knocklink box to the top and test fit it before you start drilling as our dashes might not be the same if they're different years. There should be loads of space even though it looks tight.

Did consider drilling through the top of the dash and having the led's sticking through the top but my bus sized steering wheel blocked the view. Shame as the led's would have reflected in the screen giving me a heads up display at night. How cool would that have been???

[DR Motosport]

I like that idea a lot, inside the binacle.

Playsatan, one of the posts on Scoobynet used normal wiring, another a strip of computer ribbon, what did you use?

I liked the idea of the ribbon, keeps it tidy even if it won't be seen.

[colin_ross]

No wiring other than the two power wires and the sensor. All of the led's are still connected to the circuit board with no alterations.

[johnnyr6]

Just split the box and its ready. I used phone wire to extend mine up to the a pillar pod.

Johnny

[DR Motosport]

Opened up the box earlier, Playsatan's way is totally straight forward. I'll remove the binacle tomorrow and see if there's enough space, it being a new-age.

[badbaz]

I presume the knock link 'listens' for detonation? Or maybe I'm well wrong.

Anyone care to give an explanation, reason for having, circumstances it would detect and obviously problems it would prevent?

[colin_ross]

Yes, it detects detonation.

Things it will warn you of - maf issues, map issues, fuel quality issues, fpr issues, fuel supply issues, over boost issues etc etc.

Mine has saved my engine at least 3 times.

[badbaz]

Thanks Colin.

The progressive lights, again I presume progressive, they indicate levels of det?

Is your car run so near the limit that it can light one regularly or how many lights is a problem?

Sorry for questions but this crap forum needs to be used for something

[colin_ross]

The more det the more lights come on. The first green is always on but quite dim, this just indicates it has power. It will light fully, followed by the second green, 2 oranges and then the big red.

Normal driving I get just the power indicator, on full boost I can get a green, sometimes 2 but no more. I fluffed a shift on the strip on sunday and got a snick going into third. The knocklink felt that and threw up an orange. I knew what it was so kept my foot in. When my maf failed (when I still had one) boost threw up a red. My car is pretty loud so I had no chance of hearing it detting. If I'd have stayed on boost my engine would surely have been toast.

They are adjustable btw as not all emgines have thr same amount of background noise. Mine is set to maximum.

[badbaz]

So only red or constant ambers would cause you to investigate further?

Are there different makes? What cost? How necessary?

Questions, questions, questions!

[micra_wrc]

I've got the same setup in my car as the pic above, i'm sure mine was converted by Wuz on here. It has about 18" of wire added from the box, which i hid under my centre gauge pod.

me too, got a discrete knocklink from Wuz on here, he had soldered extra wiring on it.

hid the box behind the dash and fed the LEDs into the top bit of the dash, same as the pic above.

I didnt want the car covered in gauges, boxes and dials and stuff.

it was one of the first mods Grant told me to get while I was saving for a remap.

the first green bulb is dimly on all the time and have had it occassional flicker up to the 1st amber when accelerating hard.

only had the red go off once and that was due to a combination of bad batch of Tesco 99, accelerating mid-range in 5th with 2 passengers and a fully loaded boot.

mind the engine shut down kinda told me something was wrong as well

baz, think its only one make and mine cost under £100 from memory

[colin_ross]

Constand red would demand attention but unusal activity would get me to back off a little until I was happy I knew what the issue was.

There are alternatives but knockink is the cheapest.

http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockMonitor-KS-4.aspx

http://www.kotec.info/dk1s_en.html

[badbaz]

Cheers again, Imy too.

How important is a knock sensor: does the engine's own ECU not have knock sensors? Are they not as good? Is it only essential after a certain power level? Or is it just added protection?

[colin_ross]

For an import used to higher octane fuel or a modified car I'd consider it essential. It was my first mod before I put in a panel filet and decat.

Standard ecu's can retard the ignition if they detect knock but only by so much. Many aftermarket ecu's do not do this but can flash the cel instead but this is either on or off. I prefer the knocklink for it's adjustability.

[frank c]

Colin, do you think the KS3/4 is worth the extra money or does the knocklink do just a good a job, esp it being alot cheaper.

Edited November 19, 2009 by Frank C

[colin_ross]

It is a clever piece of kit and is certainly a higher quality product IMHO but I don't have a use for the additional features like datalogging.

Cheap and cheerful is the order of the day on my car

[badbaz]

Cheap and cheerful is the order of the day on my car

And quick!

[DR Motosport]

Fitted the knocklink today.

Used the box lid as a template to drill the holes at the top of the binacle.

Then using a small hacksaw, cut 5mm of the box height, and opened up the size of the 5 led holes. Closed up the box again.

This allows the 5 led's to protrude more out of the original box.

With some double sided tape stuck the box to the top of the binacle with the led's sticking through just the right amount.

Thanks to Playsatan2 for the ideas.