Noobie

[Typer666]

Hi,

I am the proud new owner of a MY97 Impreza turbo 2000 4wd with 60k on the clock . I am looking from some advice please as I am relatively unexperienced with turbo'd cars coming from a honda s2000.

The car is a 1997 model, completely standard except a magnex backbox and 17 gold alloys with toyo t1's (i think).

Background on the car - I bought it from the 1st owner who has barely used it in the past 2 years so its been sitting rotting away... needed a new battery through lack of use.

The car is a due a service - any advice of where to go and costs ? ( Im from glasgow) I had my neighbour check the car out at his brothers garage and hey said everything was ok but that i need new rear brake discs and pads as they are too corroded (shame as they are grooved discs). The engine looks a little corroded but that is down to lack of use and im hoping some of it will be removed through use.

My first impressions of the car! wow! do I love the turbo!!!!!!!!!!! I love the pull and the 4WD grips and grips unlike the s that will try to kill you round a bend. I love the rumble of the car and the woosh from the engine (sadly no aftermarket dump valve) - I can definetly see the appeal of the car and I will probably never sell it lol.

The steering wheel feels enourmous.... anyone else think that? A bad point is the connector ring is too large for the new battey so it tends to pop out which is a pain when stopping the car - anyone else experienced this with an aftermarket battery ( Halfords).

The car has had bren, or brem , brens calipers and discs on front ( purple calipers if that helps? im sure its not brembo) When slightly braking it feels like the abs is kicking in??? and under heavy breaking the car pulls to the left and wobbles ... I think this will be down to the rears needing replaced.

Anyways Im looking for advice on what I should check/ get checked out?

I am taking the car for an oil/filter change and going to get the wheels aligned, balanced and tracked asap.

Any recommendations on rear pads/discs, where to get them and prices?? Also recommendations on a dump valve and power upgardes ( The car could do with a bit more power being 211bhp -i think- when it came out i would guestimate it maybe having 170-180 now?) But i dont want to affect reliability too much due to the age of the car.

How are subarus for reliability??

Anyways Thanks for listening and hope to see you all at somepoint!!!!

[emoe]

Subarus are incredibly reliable if looked after, serviced well and not thrashed to an inch of their life,

they will take a fair beating and hold, but in the hands of an abuser, ANY car is unreliable.

Your car (if its a UK spec) did come out with 217bhp, but if its only got 170 now then that engine it totally knackered!!! Id imagine youll see 200odd brake at the flywheel still if its still standard.

The brakes you have on there (if they are BREMBO) were not standard as they should be Subaru 2 pot sliders. Some people uprated to 4 pot SUBARU discs and calipers (294mm from 275mm).

If the brakes are pulling to one side, id have ALL of them checked out. Better safe than sorry especially on a car that has sat for a while.

The steering wheel is not too big!! Please remove the binoculars before driving!

When you take the car for this oil filter change, check when the cam belt was done. Change this for definite if you have no knowledge or its over 50k old.

So if i were you before looking at upgrades on power,

1: check the brakes. Make sure front and rear brakes are in TOP form. (no point going faster if you cant stop, youll only kill yourself or someone else faster!)

2: Check the cambelt and make sure the engine is in good condition (worried about your claims of 170BHP!!)

3: change the brake fluid, and check the gearbox oil for discolouration and water ingress (because its stood) and front and rear diff fluids.

4: Drive the car for a couple of weeks before thinking about upgrades as you dont know the car, its stood a while and why spend £1000 on upgrades for the engine to develop a problem that then cant be traced because you messed with things beforehand.

Patience in a virtue my friend!

Anyway

welcome to the club!!

[Typer666]

Thanks for your Advice!!

170bhp was a guestimate as i know engines loose power through time but i dont know how much so it might have 200bhp? lol onky way to know is to get it dyno'd.

Cambelt was changed 5k miles ago (but over 2 years ago ).

Is there a manual available that describes how to check the fluids?? im not very technical when it comes to cars but i have the patience and willingness to learn. Or am i best to take it to a subaru garage but i don't know if they would look at it due to the age or rape me on labour?

LOL have a look at the steering wheel on a honda s2000 - then sit in my scooby ... feels like driving a bus lol but ill get used to it lol I reckon its because of the SRS airbag technology not being as compactable in 97 as it is nowadays.

How high should I be revving the engine? ( maximum power is at 5600? and trq at 4000rpm)

Also how do I know when the engine has properly heated up? I normally let the temp dial get half way and leave it for another minute before going above 3k rpm. Also when cooling down how do i know? I normally sit for 2-3 minutes to let it cool down.

Would like at somepoint to go to knockhill - not far from me but never been to a trackday and dont want to break the car lol

Anyways thanks for your advice - much appreciated!

[oobster]

Duncan at Hypertech is good at all the oily bits on Subarus.

Hypertech

Unit 13

Bonnybridge Ind Estate ,

Murnin Road,

Bonnybridge,

Falkirk

FK4 2BW

Telephone : 01324 812 212

Welcome to the club by the way!

Edited August 18, 2008 by oobster

[emoe]

Cambelt was changed 5k miles ago (but over 2 years ago ). CHECK TO MAKE SURE ITS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND YOULL BE OK

Is there a manual available that describes how to check the fluids?? im not very technical when it comes to cars but i have the patience and willingness to learn. Or am i best to take it to a subaru garage but i don't know if they would look at it due to the age or rape me on labour?

PULL THE DIPSTICK ON THE GEARBOX (behind the intercooler) FRONT DIFF IS A SQUARE HEARD BOLT, REAR DIFF SAME

LOL have a look at the steering wheel on a honda s2000 - then sit in my scooby ... feels like driving a bus lol but ill get used to it lol I reckon its because of the SRS airbag technology not being as compactable in 97 as it is nowadays. BUY LESS MAGNIFYING GLASSES

How high should I be revving the engine? ( maximum power is at 5600? and trq at 4000rpm) AS HIGH AS REQUIRED TO GO ALONG AT PACE REQUIRED IN GEAR SELECTED!!!! ACTUALLY DONT REDLINE IT. DONT REV TOO HIGH TILL THE ENGINE IS CHECKED OUT ANYWAY

Also how do I know when the engine has properly heated up? USUALLY WAIT TILL THE TEMP GUAGE SHOWS FULLY WARM (1/2 way up) BEFORE LETTING IT FULLY BOOST.

when cooling down how do i know? I normally sit for 2-3 minutes to let it cool down. SUBARU MANUAL STATES 1 MINUTE TO COOL DOWN. GET A TURBO TIMER IF WORRIED. THEY WORK WELL.

Would like at somepoint to go to knockhill - not far from me but never been to a trackday and dont want to break the car lol YOU CAN BREAK THE CAR ON THE BACK ROADS, SO DONT BLAME TEH TRACK!!! YOUR RIGHT FOOT IS THE KEY!!! ALSO DONT TRY TO IMPRESS ON THE TRACK. HAVE FUN AND DRIVE HOME SO YOU CAN COME BACK ANOTHER DAY. 23 YEARS OF RACING EXPERIENCE TALKING THERE!!!!

[Typer666]

Cambelt was changed 5k miles ago (but over 2 years ago ). CHECK TO MAKE SURE ITS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND YOULL BE OK

Is there a manual available that describes how to check the fluids?? im not very technical when it comes to cars but i have the patience and willingness to learn. Or am i best to take it to a subaru garage but i don't know if they would look at it due to the age or rape me on labour?

PULL THE DIPSTICK ON THE GEARBOX (behind the intercooler) FRONT DIFF IS A SQUARE HEARD BOLT, REAR DIFF SAME

LOL have a look at the steering wheel on a honda s2000 - then sit in my scooby ... feels like driving a bus lol but ill get used to it lol I reckon its because of the SRS airbag technology not being as compactable in 97 as it is nowadays. BUY LESS MAGNIFYING GLASSES

How high should I be revving the engine? ( maximum power is at 5600? and trq at 4000rpm) AS HIGH AS REQUIRED TO GO ALONG AT PACE REQUIRED IN GEAR SELECTED!!!! ACTUALLY DONT REDLINE IT. DONT REV TOO HIGH TILL THE ENGINE IS CHECKED OUT ANYWAY

Also how do I know when the engine has properly heated up? USUALLY WAIT TILL THE TEMP GUAGE SHOWS FULLY WARM (1/2 way up) BEFORE LETTING IT FULLY BOOST.

when cooling down how do i know? I normally sit for 2-3 minutes to let it cool down. SUBARU MANUAL STATES 1 MINUTE TO COOL DOWN. GET A TURBO TIMER IF WORRIED. THEY WORK WELL.

Would like at somepoint to go to knockhill - not far from me but never been to a trackday and dont want to break the car lol YOU CAN BREAK THE CAR ON THE BACK ROADS, SO DONT BLAME TEH TRACK!!! YOUR RIGHT FOOT IS THE KEY!!! ALSO DONT TRY TO IMPRESS ON THE TRACK. HAVE FUN AND DRIVE HOME SO YOU CAN COME BACK ANOTHER DAY. 23 YEARS OF RACING EXPERIENCE TALKING THERE!!!!

LOL thanks:P

As the car has been off the road so long and needs a service can anyone recommend any garages? (im from the glasgow area but willing to travel). What work do you think will need done? I have a receipt for the cambelt 5k miles ago but 2 years ago - how do i check if its ok?

I'm currently awaiting Hypertech to call me back with a price to check the car over and see what they think it will need done.

My neighbour took the car to his brothers garage to check out and said the rear brakes and pads are too corroded and need replacing- the car is wobbling/locking up when breaking at 70-80 ( scary stuff ). Can anyone recommend decent pads+ discs - the calipers are fine.

Thanks chaps:)

[emoe]

LOL thanks:P

As the car has been off the road so long and needs a service can anyone recommend any garages? (im from the glasgow area but willing to travel). What work do you think will need done? I have a receipt for the cambelt 5k miles ago but 2 years ago - how do i check if its ok?

I'm currently awaiting Hypertech to call me back with a price to check the car over and see what they think it will need done.

My neighbour took the car to his brothers garage to check out and said the rear brakes and pads are too corroded and need replacing- the car is wobbling/locking up when breaking at 70-80 ( scary stuff ). Can anyone recommend decent pads+ discs - the calipers are fine.

Thanks chaps:)

A good mechanic will be able to tell if the cambelt is still good, as long as there isnt fractures from time on it then it will be ok. And as long as the pulleys and stuff isd good youll be ok

As for the brakes, this is my advice.

Pads are generally cheaper than your life. So i would replace all the pads regardless. Depending on what you want to spend depends on what you get.

Theres plenty of choice and a lot is about personal preference. I stick to a fast road pad for the road, but lots of others use different pads.

As for the rear brakes, i would certainly change both the discs and the pads, and have the calipers checked to make sure they are free, otherwise have them serviced.

Same with the fronts. have them discs looked at, and if they are in any way worn change them. Personally id change them anyway.

Did you find out what brakes are on the front?

BREMBO are 4 pot with BREMBO written on them, have 2 bleed nipples and a balancer pipe from left to right cylinder blocks.

Std Subaru 4 pots have either SUBARU written on them, cast in or sticker or may be plain, but are a solid 4 pot caliper, 1 bleed nipple.

Std 2 pot sliders are firstly JUNK!! and are a carrier with a caliper sliding on two pins attached to the carrier.

Youll need to know all that before you buy pads and discs for the front. Your rears i would imagine were standard.

Why dont you take a photo of the front and rear brakes, up close , post it up and we can tell you what the brakes are

[johnnyr6]

If your on a budget good quality oe rear discs from say camskill with decent pads i.e ferrodo ds2500's will be more than up to the job. Also as emoe says give the calipers a once over.

You say it's down on power, before you worry too much get it checked out as it may be fine it's just you need to get used to the power delivery and a well looked after car will not lose any noticable power at only 60k. My car, with 90k made 290 bhp with only a decat downpipe.

I was really dissapointed with my first shot of my 96 sti and felt it was nowhere near as quick as i'd expected but as i'm used to it now

It still feels slow.

Johnny

Edited August 19, 2008 by JohnnyR6

[mikeyb13]

Welcome on board mate, this lot will see you right

P.S Type-r means something different here

[Typer666]

Welcome on board mate, this lot will see you right

P.S Type-r means something different here

Heres some images -

rears

fronts

You guys are right - I need to make sure the car is working fine standard before modding it. The brakes are the first thing that need attention - let me know what you think from the images

[P1_Paul]

I don't understand why, at 60K, you think your car has lost power. It's probably in the prime of it's life, making stock or slightly above stock power levels.

[emoe]

You have standard calipers on the rear (sliding calipers) so pads for those will be easy, also the disc itself will be simple to locate.

The fronts are Bremsport 6 pots, so youll need to get the right size disc (i think they were 322mm but someone may correct me on that... please!)

The pads will also need to be the correct fitment, and im not sure where to get them or what others fit. Im not all that up on Bremsport, They are definently better than the standard sliders or 4 pots, so the brake system is a good one you have.

The rear discs LOOK like Tarox 40 groove, but to be honest, any disc will be better than worn, warped ones. Those calipers look a bit manky on the back, get yourself an old toothbrush and cleam them off good with some decent cleaner when you change the pads and disc.

If you are changing the pads and discs yourself, touch my goat and ill talk you thorugh it.

As i said before, make sure the fronts are working properly too, and if i were you i would change the brake fluid.

nice car by the way, hope youre pleased with it.

[Typer666]

You have standard calipers on the rear (sliding calipers) so pads for those will be easy, also the disc itself will be simple to locate.

The fronts are Bremsport 6 pots, so youll need to get the right size disc (i think they were 322mm but someone may correct me on that... please!)

The pads will also need to be the correct fitment, and im not sure where to get them or what others fit. Im not all that up on Bremsport, They are definently better than the standard sliders or 4 pots, so the brake system is a good one you have.

The rear discs LOOK like Tarox 40 groove, but to be honest, any disc will be better than worn, warped ones. Those calipers look a bit manky on the back, get yourself an old toothbrush and cleam them off good with some decent cleaner when you change the pads and disc.

If you are changing the pads and discs yourself, touch my goat and ill talk you thorugh it.

As i said before, make sure the fronts are working properly too, and if i were you i would change the brake fluid.

nice car by the way, hope youre pleased with it.

Thanks for your help - I love the car!!!

How do I check the calipers etc - I have never changed pads/disc before.... Contemplating it but not sure yet if I will do it myself.

Looking at prices on the internet - looking pricey -

1) tarox drilled+grooved discs rear £180 + £70/90 mintex/ferodo ds pads...

2) front discs + pads ( I don't even know where to looks for discs pads for the front due to the size? Bremsport closed down because the owner died and starting trading under compbrakes butn now do only race spec stuff)

3) checking/servicing the calipers

so quite expensive but as you say cheaper than a life.

What do you think?

Thanks

[emoe]

Thanks for your help - I love the car!!!

How do I check the calipers etc - I have never changed pads/disc before.... Contemplating it but not sure yet if I will do it myself.

Looking at prices on the internet - looking pricey -

1) tarox drilled+grooved discs rear £180 + £70/90 mintex/ferodo ds pads...

2) front discs + pads ( I don't even know where to looks for discs pads for the front due to the size? Bremsport closed down because the owner died and starting trading under compbrakes butn now do only race spec stuff)

3) checking/servicing the calipers

so quite expensive but as you say cheaper than a life.

What do you think?

Thanks

I think you can just get standard discs on the back, you dont need tarox ones. Std ones will be much cheaper.

pads id stick with those ferrodo ones.

front pads id look at getting the pads out and matching them to the ones that come with AP 6 pots. Im sure they used a generic type of pad, or you may find they had 4 pads to each caliper.

Basically remove the caliper, and using soapy hot water and an old toothbrush, scub the inside of the calipers good, then make sure the cylinders are all free. youll have to push them back in to service the pads anyway.

If youre not competent to do it IN ANY WAY, or you are SLIGHTLY nervous, then get a pro to do it. brakes saves lives. Pay the money and have it done properly.

Unless youre near me and ill do it with you for free.

[Typer666]

I think you can just get standard discs on the back, you dont need tarox ones. Std ones will be much cheaper.

pads id stick with those ferrodo ones.

front pads id look at getting the pads out and matching them to the ones that come with AP 6 pots. Im sure they used a generic type of pad, or you may find they had 4 pads to each caliper.

Basically remove the caliper, and using soapy hot water and an old toothbrush, scub the inside of the calipers good, then make sure the cylinders are all free. youll have to push them back in to service the pads anyway.

If youre not competent to do it IN ANY WAY, or you are SLIGHTLY nervous, then get a pro to do it. brakes saves lives. Pay the money and have it done properly.

Unless youre near me and ill do it with you for free.

Where are you located? I'd like to learn how to do it from someone who know's what they are doing

Thanks:D

[emoe]

Where are you located? I'd like to learn how to do it from someone who know's what they are doing

Thanks:D

bedfordshire

[mikeyb13]

Where are you located? I'd like to learn how to do it from someone who know's what they are doing

Thanks:D

Be brave and go to a couple of meets, you will likely find details of one near you in the Events section

Im a newbie myself and I promise they dont bite unless provoked

Lots of nice folks, who are right into their cars, that are always more than happy to help

[Typer666]

LOL - I will be coming to the meets Looking forward to meeting everyone and their cars lol.

I hope this topic is not being dragged out ... but.... to rehiterate

The car is a MY97 Turbo 2000 AWD UK car 60k miles - last serviced 2years ago about 14k miles, camblet changed 5k miles ago. Rust on one of the big fog lights meant it almost fell off lol.

The previous owner (Must have been on here as I have SIDC tax holder and sticker in the back window, think his name was Jack, the car is from EK - bought from his son-) has barely used in in two years so it is quite corroded and in need of service and the engine looks quite corroded so its worrying me but the car runs like a dream... so its needs just now ( and thinking ahead to what I would like to do) -

1) FIRSTLY - Rear pads/discs too corroded, the brakes hardly work so getting the 6 pot calipers at the front and rear 2 pots serviced then new dics and pads all round thinking ferodo ds 2500 pads? Price £....?

2) Full main service, cambelt check, gearbox and diff oil checked. Price £....?

This is the stuff im thinking ahead about...... But i need to get the breaks and service/inspection done immediately the next few days - don't want to take any chances, not driving the car till it gets done.

3) Everything being ok - its goin on the dyno. Price £....? (hypertech next week £40? if stage 1 & 2 successfuly completed)

4) Then suspension mods, (already has springs) strut brace, roll bars, drop links and a fast road geometry set up to top it off. Price £....?

5) There is a tunning package taking it to 280-300bhp - ( as per andy forrests website) Price £....?

Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore

Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump

Apexi Induction system with resonator delete

ESL custom live mapping of original ECU

Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge

NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs

Uprated dump valve such as Sard or Forge motorsport

6) Driving lessons. Price £....? ( I noticed free tuition at the trackday at knockhill 30/08/08 £110)

7) misc stuff - xenons and pods etc (suggestions) ... Price £....?

8) I will be in motoring heaven:P

From your experience what do you think? what sorts of costs am I looking at for each stage? and importantly where can I get it done? (form Glasgow) Hypertech is quite local - recommendations?, I have also had a friendly chap on here offer to do the work ... everyone is unbelievably helpful! thanks!

Emoe you are a bit far - about 350miles away

[cusco kid]

Thanks for your help - I love the car!!!

How do I check the calipers etc - I have never changed pads/disc before.... Contemplating it but not sure yet if I will do it myself.

Looking at prices on the internet - looking pricey -

1) tarox drilled+grooved discs rear £180 + £70/90 mintex/ferodo ds pads...

2) front discs + pads ( I don't even know where to looks for discs pads for the front due to the size? Bremsport closed down because the owner died and starting trading under compbrakes butn now do only race spec stuff)

3) checking/servicing the calipers

so quite expensive but as you say cheaper than a life.

What do you think? hi m8 compbrake supply me all my comp parts .stephen fell is a great guy and i know him well i can check with him for discs and pads ps i pm ed you m8 geo

Thanks

Edited August 21, 2008 by cusco kid

[emoe]

-

1) FIRSTLY - Rear pads/discs too corroded, the brakes hardly work so getting the 6 pot calipers at the front and rear 2 pots serviced then new dics and pads all round thinking ferodo ds 2500 pads? Price £....? prices vary.

2) Full main service, cambelt check, gearbox and diff oil checked. Price £....? prices vary! check around

This is the stuff im thinking ahead about...... But i need to get the breaks and service/inspection done immediately the next few days - don't want to take any chances, not driving the car till it gets done.

3) Everything being ok - its goin on the dyno. Price £....? (hypertech next week £40? if stage 1 & 2 successfuly completed) Why spend £100 on a dyno run for absolutely nothing?? If the car is standard, youll look at the region of 220Bhp

4) Then suspension mods, (already has springs) strut brace, roll bars, drop links and a fast road geometry set up to top it off. Price £....? SEE NOTE 7 BELOW

5) There is a tunning package taking it to 280-300bhp - ( as per andy forrests website) Price £....? You may get 280Bhp out of that set up on your car, but id be suprised if you did.

Your car has 380Injectors, which are running at full chat at 260Bhp. The original TMIC isnt brilliant, and you need better cooling for more power. the original TD04 runs out of puff at 280 Tops, and the dumpvalve, plugs, pressure reg and walbro pump do NOTHING to raise the power. they are mods that become neseccary as you progress. The pump i would say deffo change. Regulator?? Not needed under 350bhp, and the sports exhaust is a good investment, but to reach that 280bhp youll need to change headers and up-pipe and downpipe on your car as they are restrictive.

I would estimate with a remap and a sports exhaust and that induction system youd see about 260bhp.

Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore

Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump

Apexi Induction system with resonator delete

ESL custom live mapping of original ECU

Fuel Lab turbo specification fuel pressure regulator with fitting kit & gauge

NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs

Uprated dump valve such as Sard or Forge motorsport

6) Driving lessons. Price £....? ( I noticed free tuition at the trackday at knockhill 30/08/08 £110) Ill give you driving lessons free of charge if you Spanner for me!

7) misc stuff - xenons and pods etc (suggestions) ... Price £....? Before you go doing these mods, you NEED at the least a pod with a boost guage, and preferably something to give you KNOCK levels (knocklink is good) and possibly an AFR meter. Above you were talking about making 300bhp, youll need these before thinking about that or you will be looking for a new car!!

8) I will be in motoring heaven:P

From your experience what do you think? what sorts of costs am I looking at for each stage? and importantly where can I get it done? (form Glasgow) Hypertech is quite local - recommendations?, I have also had a friendly chap on here offer to do the work ... everyone is unbelievably helpful! thanks!

Emoe you are a bit far - about 350miles away Sorry!!! i do come to Knockhill for the series i race in, so maybe see you there!!

see bold above

Prices are hard mate, as they change a lot and you have to shop around.

Ive been as honest as i can, i run the same car as you, a 98 MY and i am making 300bhp. Mine has a turbotronics Hybrid TD04, BIG top mount IC, modified airbox intake (better than a cone filter i promise you!! always try to keep your airbox!) HKS full 3" turbo back straight through exhaust, and water/methanol injection. all controlled by an Apexi Power FC.

Edited August 21, 2008 by emoe