cusco kid Posted April 8, 2008 Posted April 8, 2008 Thanks Geo. I have got Coilovers, Droplinks, Fast road geometry and ALK, just a matter of the ARBs! well its about time you fitted arb's and drop links to stiffen the roll center of the car!
G.Mac Posted April 8, 2008 Posted April 8, 2008 your all bad bad people puting these crazy ideas in my head, have just been offered a job lasting 1 or 2 months away onboard so should have a nice lump when I get home Now please stop talking about modding cars as I need to save up to go to college in August Graeme
Jimmy321 Posted April 8, 2008 Posted April 8, 2008 I have ALK, springs, 22mm F & R ARB's, fast road geo settings on my 07 wagon. I would still like to have less understear, i still need to try the rear bar on stiffest setting. Having said that it's not that bad, i would not remove the front bar as i like the flat feel when turning. Still i would like to have tried 22mm F & 24mm R.
frank c Posted April 8, 2008 Posted April 8, 2008 I went for the 22mm adj rear bar along with front/rear d/links and h/duty bracket ( Classic )..Sorted the car out no end.. I didn't feel the need to fit a front bar (mentioned above) as it was never going near a track so it seemed a bit ott for my driving style.. Aren't 24's and front bars for track anyway ?? I started off with the bar in the middle setting and never tried it on the hardest setting..Trial and error i suppose, depends on how you drive and how you like the car to handle.. I'm sure i got mine from D/tweeks and asked for a Dave Featherstone(?) ..He usually deals with the group buys from s/net and gave me quite a good wee discount..Didn't see cheaper at the time..
frank c Posted April 8, 2008 Posted April 8, 2008 I have ALK, springs, 22mm F & R ARB's, fast road geo settings on my 07 wagon.I would still like to have less understear, i still need to try the rear bar on stiffest setting. Having said that it's not that bad, i would not remove the front bar as i like the flat feel when turning. Still i would like to have tried 22mm F & 24mm R. You've probably induced more understeer by fitting the front arb along with the rear. It might have been a better balance to fit the rear on it's own first ?, but if your rear bar is adjustable i'd put to the tighest setting and see what it's like.. Hopefully sort it out
thewelsho Posted April 9, 2008 Author Posted April 9, 2008 Booked into Hypertech for rear ARB fitment. Asked Duncan about both and said to make do with the rear only first as fitting both will not be wholly suitable for a road car. I'll see how I get on with that then decide on whether to fit the fronts later. £134 supplied and fitted
thewelsho Posted April 9, 2008 Author Posted April 9, 2008 John, what do you mean by ALKs? Anti Lift Kit.
Boydie. Posted April 9, 2008 Posted April 9, 2008 Ah, top man. What does one of those do/where does it go? never heard of one of those before!
thewelsho Posted April 10, 2008 Author Posted April 10, 2008 Ah, top man. What does one of those do/where does it go? never heard of one of those before! The anti lift kit prevents the front-end from lifting basically. When you accelarate hard the front end unloads causing it to go light, this means less traction and not soemthing you want especially going into a corner. The ALK helps minimise this and also allows for a greater range of camber on the front wheels as well, giving more front grip and reduces understeer. That said, I do not use the full range of camber available, because it quickly wears the inside tread of the tyres.
Boydie. Posted April 10, 2008 Posted April 10, 2008 The anti lift kit prevents the front-end from lifting basically. When you accelarate hard the front end unloads causing it to go light, this means less traction and not soemthing you want especially going into a corner. The ALK helps minimise this and also allows for a greater range of camber on the front wheels as well, giving more front grip and reduces understeer. That said, I do not use the full range of camber available, because it quickly wears the inside tread of the tyres. As true as this is - Camber isn't the thing that actually KILLS tyres. Toe is. You would be amazed at the lengths of camber people run and don't experience mega tyre wear. ^ One of the guys who owns the website i visit most, has proper alignment and doesn't go through loads of tyres. Cheers for the explination to ALKs
thewelsho Posted April 10, 2008 Author Posted April 10, 2008 Camber does: because the top part of the wheel is pushed in further than the lower part so to speak, the contact patch has more weight on it in the inside than on the outside. The outcome is inner-tread wear. I know this because my front tyres were gubbed on the inside while the rears were fine.
cusco kid Posted April 10, 2008 Posted April 10, 2008 I have ALK, springs, 22mm F & R ARB's, fast road geo settings on my 07 wagon.I would still like to have less understear, i still need to try the rear bar on stiffest setting. Having said that it's not that bad, i would not remove the front bar as i like the flat feel when turning. Still i would like to have tried 22mm F & 24mm R. hi m8 try fitting whiteline top mounts allowing caster/camber ajustments geo
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