A R Bs

[thewelsho]

Rough idea much these are supplied and fitted front and rear on an MY06? And, do they make that much of a difference; are they a worhwhile mod? Already have Tein Superstreet COs, ALK and solid droplinks...

Take it away folks....

[mctwistuk]

have a chat with Geo(cusco kid) he is the man in the know regarding this. So what was the outcome of your cars trip to the stealers?

[thewelsho]

have a chat with Geo(cusco kid) he is the man in the know regarding this. So what was the outcome of your cars trip to the stealers?

Hmmm, alright I suppose

[~ ~ Cal ~~]

Edit - just noticed you have ALK and drop links

As for benefits :

On-Road Results

The adjustable 22mm rear swaybar absolutely transformed the WRX's handling - this really is the biggest bang-forbuck

handling mod you can make!

Mid-corner is where the new 'bar makes its biggest difference. The WRX is now much more obedient during its

approach to the apex of a corner - you no longer have to combat understeer and more understeer. The front-end

points much closer to the steered angle and the chassis remains more neutral - especially through tight corners that

would otherwise have the Rex plough understeering. From the driver's seat you can really feel the outside rear tyre

being loaded and, relatively speaking, the outside front tyre is under less stress. For the first time you can hear the

rear tyres yowling through a corner, not just the fronts; this is a good indication that the cornering loads are now being

evenly distributed through the front and rear outside tyres. Tyre wear, as a result, will be less focussed to the

shoulder of outside front tyre.

The new swaybar improves turn-in, though the difference is not as tremendous as the middle stages of the corner. If

you come into a corner too fast or your steering input is too rough, there is certainly less tendency for the nose to

plough ahead. It will understeer in these situations, but not terminally. Given a smoother steering approach, the rear

swaybar won't make a huge difference to turn-in.

Corner exit is slightly improved thanks to a more accurate approach to the apex that effectively 'opens out' the exit

line. Previously, it was easy to understeer wide of the apex and be forced to tighten you exit line; with the Whiteline

swaybar, you can more accurately follow the optimal line. If you apply power while there is significant steering lock

wound on you'll get power understeer - though it doesn't feel as pronounced as previously.

And how reactive is the car to mid-corner throttle offs?

Well - first - we must emphasise there's now much less requirement to lift off the throttle in order to get the front-end

to tuck in. With the chassis more balanced, there are only few occasions (such as when negotiating a tight roundabout)

when a slight mid-corner lift-off will be of benefit. Depending on entry speed and your steering input, a sharp

throttle-off can cause a considerable oversteer action. Other than looking spectacular we're not sure if this is a great

characteristic, but it shows the car now has much more balance - you're not limited to just understeer.

The three different swaybar adjustments make a considerable difference to the handling attitude of the car. The

softest roll setting still gives all of the abovementioned but is quite benign in its transition to lift-off oversteer. In the

other extreme, the firmest setting is perhaps a bit much with otherwise stock suspension and road-spec tyres. Be

aware that the tail can step out quite a long way - and very rapidly - when the car is unsettled by factors such as road

camber changes or loose gravel atop of the bitumen. The firmest setting is, however, probably ideal for track use.

And now we arrive at the middle setting - the setting we are currently most content with for everyday street duties.

The centre swaybar hole provides much improved mid-corner attitude and its lift-of oversteer characteristic is

manageable in everyday conditions - in dry weather conditions, anyhow.

Source http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_Re...of%20a%20WRX%22

In summary - less roll, less understeer and more party time in the wet

Edited April 7, 2008 by ~ ~ Cal ~~

[~ ~ Cal ~~]

Have a read here too :-

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/423...s-geometry.html

That's why I just went for ARB on the rear only

CGS

[thewelsho]

In summary - less roll, less understeer and more party time in the wet

Cheers mate, I need to see how much these are befrore making a purchase

[seafar99]

Geo, will source you them for about £110 each.

[thefastone]

but the question thats on my mind is which one, its a given that i was going to fit them, but I really dont know what Size I want...

is 22mm going to be enough? is 24mm going to be too much?

Do I want the front and rear to be the same size?

so many questions...

[scooby222]

spooky,thats exactly the questions going through my mind dale! do i need to do both or would just the rear be ok to start with?

[thefastone]

I was thinking on doing the Droplinks and ARBs front and rear all at the same time... its just the Thickness that I need to know...

I was also thinking whether I want to go suspension, or Springs... I think that's something that I'll think more about after I've done the ARB and droplinks...

[thewelsho]

spooky,thats exactly the questions going through my mind dale! do i need to do both or would just the rear be ok to start with?

According to Geo (Cusco Kid). you should always start from the rear of a Scooby. I read all that stuff that Cal posted from the Website, and TBH the stuff about understeer doesn't affect me, I got rid of this a long time ago with the ALK and geometry settings. Judging by what it said in the article, and other links, it would seem that it would be more advisable to have the 24s on the rear and make do with the 22s on the front, but does this take into account coilovers, ALK and droplinks! Like Dale said, "So many questions". I am going to take a trip into Hypertech this week and have a talk to Duncan.

Edited April 7, 2008 by TheWelsho

[fai17]

22mm front and 24mm rear

[thefastone]

See thats what I was thinking, John, To be honest, My understanding of your dilemma, is that the coilovers should net make a difference to what Size of ARBs you go for... as the differeence should be the same for both setups... (coilover/non-coilover)

IE: the ARB size should be the same no matter what suspension you have...

Thats just my (badly explained) understanding you do understand....

[thewelsho]

22mm front and 24mm rear

Do you have these?

Are they worth having?

Much are they?

[fai17]

Do you have these?

Are they worth having?

Much are they?

Yes

Yes

Forgot.....lol

Three words for you JW

Buy

Them

Now

[thewelsho]

See thats what I was thinking, John, To be honest, My understanding of your dilemma, is that the coilovers should net make a difference to what Size of ARBs you go for... as the differeence should be the same for both setups... (coilover/non-coilover)

IE: the ARB size should be the same no matter what suspension you have...

Thats just my (badly explained) understanding you do understand....

Yeah, I see what you mean; if you change the suspension on all 4 corners at the same time to the same spec, the realtive balance of the car is the same. Therefore, uprating the ARBs should be done to the same spec as you would do it on standard suspension... is that what you are saying?

[thewelsho]

Yes

Yes

Forgot.....lol

Three words for you JW

Buy

Them

Now

LOL! If I can get them supplied and fitted for about £250, then I probably will. Still need to prioritise graphics though... - speaking of which, the guy who I had lined up to do them is taking his time answering my queries. Might be time to start looking around again. GRRRR!

[fai17]

If you think you car corners with not alot of roll round corners then you should try it with up rated ARBs as it corners much much much flatter with them.

[fai17]

LOL! If I can get them supplied and fitted for about £250, then I probably will.

Speak to Dunc as that price is not that far away from it fitted.

[thefastone]

yeah john, thats pretty much it... You got it explained better than I did...

thats mainly what these mods are about, keeping the car more flat and stable round corners...

[thewelsho]

If you think you car corners with not alot of roll round corners then you should try it with up rated ARBs as it corners much much much flatter with them.

TBH, I feel there is still a fair bit of body roll even with the mods I have. I will speak to Duncan on Wednesday hopefully and see what he can do for me.

[scooby222]

more flatness sounds good as i lost a bit of that when i switched to the prodrive springs and goodyear tyres,though what i agined in compliance on b roads more than made up for it.

so that sorts arb and drop links but is the alk worth doing on an 05 sti? i want to enhance the way the car feels just now as it has a slightly loose back end,just how i like it!

and Dale,try a car with coilovers if you can and see,ive never been too fussed about them but the other halfs integras got full tein setup and its amazing-zero roll and still comfortable enough on b roads,they actually seem to be more compliant on broken surfaces the harder you go

[thewelsho]

but is the alk worth doing on an 05 sti? i want to enhance the way the car feels just now as it has a slightly loose back end,just how i like it!

Fitting the ALK is all about the front end of the car. Under heavy accelaration the front-end of the car naturally lifts and unloads. This means that the lighter front end will understeer when going into corners, the ALK minimises this. Also, the ALK will allow more camber on the front wheels as well, again giving more front grip, less understeer. If you have a tail-happy car at present, then adding an ALK might actually increase that.

[cusco kid]

yeah john, thats pretty much it... You got it explained better than I did...

thats mainly what these mods are about, keeping the car more flat and stable round corners...

once you were undecided now your not so sure lol- here are the hard and fast rules according to whiteline/GMD automotive and the cusco kid- first mod to get a subaru to handle

step 1- 24mm rear arb with alloy drop links

step 2- 22mm or 24mm front arb- we at whiteline have been testing on a 24mm and 24mm and its been having good results

step3- anti lift kit and poly rack bushes. good fast road set up after alk fitted will transform your subaru

step 4- uprated lowered springs/coilovers- depending on use.

stop pussy footing about and get it done! lol

listen to other people that have the mods done to there car and believe them! geo

[thewelsho]

once you were undecided now your not so sure lol- here are the hard and fast rules according to whiteline/GMD automotive and the cusco kid- first mod to get a subaru to handle

step 1- 24mm rear arb with alloy drop links

step 2- 22mm or 24mm front arb- we at whiteline have been testing on a 24mm and 24mm and its been having good results

step3- anti lift kit and poly rack bushes. good fast road set up after alk fitted will transform your subaru

step 4- uprated lowered springs/coilovers- depending on use.

stop pussy footing about and get it done! lol

listen to other people that have the mods done to there car and believe them! geo

Thanks Geo. I have got Coilovers, Droplinks, Fast road geometry and ALK, just a matter of the ARBs!