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Engine Question?

Jamis

By Jamis
in Scottish Scoobies

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Jamis

Jamis

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Thanks guys i know my wifes wrx ra has one,but just wanted to know what others had them.Thinking of getting one to build a big bhp unit for my terzo.

WUZ

WUZ

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Only STI to have a Closed Deck Block was the Version 1 (Acropolis Version) and version 2 RA (Normal and V-Limited)

Early Legacy Turbo and Early WRX RA up to 94 had them for certain

As Grant says above, these were the cars that had CDB's as OE equipment, BUT Japanese buyers could spec it from the factory with a CDB if they wanted to.

Russell

Edited by WUZ
Jamis

Jamis

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Ok then so what do i go for 2.5 or 2.0 CDB???As i'm looking at the bigger picture here and will be looking to build this over time,but unsure what block to start off with.

WUZ

WUZ

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Posted
Ok then so what do i go for 2.5 or 2.0 CDB???As i'm looking at the bigger picture here and will be looking to build this over time,but unsure what block to start off with.
Considering the car you are starting off with, go for a 2.5

Your UK/WRX heads are only good for 7000rpm so a high-revving 2.0CDB will need STi heads as a minimum (extra £600) so 2.5 with 18G/20G will be awesome

Bearing in mind you have a Phase 1 UK/WRX box, this is the MAJOR WEAK POINT ON ANY 2.0 or high BHP build!!!

You have been warned...................get out there and get modding

scouk

scouk

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Posted
Considering the car you are starting off with, go for a 2.5

Your UK/WRX heads are only good for 7000rpm so a high-revving 2.0CDB will need STi heads as a minimum (extra £600) so 2.5 with 18G/20G will be awesome

Bearing in mind you have a Phase 1 UK/WRX box, this is the MAJOR WEAK POINT ON ANY 2.0 or high BHP build!!!

You have been warned...................get out there and get modding

Althought it looks like you've more or less covered a question I've had about Impreza engines, I'm going to ask anyway.

Just how "soft" are newage WRX 2.0 engines? Probably temptimg fate here, but what should be done to look after them properly so they dont go bang. I generally keep it below 5k rpm unless in an emergency. What sort of things are likely to go wrong, early warning signs?

And finally what are the options for a stronger engine? & rough costs?

Got nothing wrong with the car, touch wood ;)(<< I know that's brick wall) just looking for some background info from the experts ;)

jac

jac

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Posted
Ok then so what do i go for 2.5 or 2.0 CDB???As i'm looking at the bigger picture here and will be looking to build this over time,but unsure what block to start off with.

Neither go for the 2.2CDB from a 22B if you can find one or better still the US Legacy Turbo 91 on.

Get it machined and fit a 2.5 crank and you will have a 2.35. good displacement and supper strong. ;)

WUZ

WUZ

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Neither go for the 2.2CDB from a 22B if you can find one or better still the US Legacy Turbo 91 on.

Get it machined and fit a 2.5 crank and you will have a 2.35. good displacement and supper strong. ;)

yes but that will cost him £1800 for the 2.35 build + £500 for the EJ22 block to start with - if he can find the block in the first place!

2.5 block will cost him £1400 and revs to 7K

Why spend over £900 more on the block alone but have heads that can't use the bulletproof, high-revving potential of the engine?

Choice is your at the end of the day but look at what you have, what your looking for the car to achieve (power, driveability, etc) and then decide.

Russell (2.35 + GT30R owner)

frank c

frank c

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I was thinking about a 2.5 short motor for my 99 turbo and using the 99 heads, ok ? My only concern is obviously the gearbox. What's my options? 6 speed , PPG, what costs and parts/options am I looking at here.

And will my diffs be ok or do people upgrade them purely for gearing rather than them being stronger ?.

The car won't be going over 400/400 but would like to know what's involved.

Am i better using wiseco 'drop in' pistons ?

So many questions , never mind the spiraling costs involved.

jac

jac

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yes but that will cost him £1800 for the 2.35 build + £500 for the EJ22 block to start with - if he can find the block in the first place!

2.5 block will cost him £1400 and revs to 7K

Why spend over £900 more on the block alone but have heads that can't use the bulletproof, high-revving potential of the engine?

Choice is your at the end of the day but look at what you have, what your looking for the car to achieve (power, driveability, etc) and then decide.

Russell (2.35 + GT30R owner)

Personally i would rather spend the extra £900 for the reliability... £1400 is cheep for the 2.5 but when you have to

change the chocolate block again it doesn't seem that cheep. ;)

Future proof your build... Do it once do it right ;)

Jac

higgy

higgy

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Personally i would rather spend the extra £900 for the reliability... £1400 is cheep for the 2.5 but when you have to

change the chocolate block again it doesn't seem that cheep. ;)

Future proof your build... Do it once do it right ;)

Jac

I have a 2 l closed deck block in my attic if your looking to buy one . Th e big ends went on it so there is no damage to the casings , reason for sale is due to other things coming from the states again.

Higgy

WUZ

WUZ

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Posted
Personally i would rather spend the extra £900 for the reliability... £1400 is cheep for the 2.5 but when you have to

change the chocolate block again it doesn't seem that cheep. :(

Future proof your build... Do it once do it right :)

Jac

JAC - where does the "chocolate block" mentality come from? You saying all semi-closed Deck Block EJ257's will fail? DON'T THINK SO

There has been plenty of modded UK cars with 2.5's & 20G's put in them and got 380/380 and they are still running fine after 2 years and 35K. I know this as I built 2 such cars! This power level is not an issue on the EJ257, it's only once you get past about 1.5 Bar that you need to look into Forged Pistons, etc

Your money your choice. Listen to all the advice given, seek some more, a little more after that and then decide.

Russell

jac

jac

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Posted (edited)
JAC - where does the "chocolate block" mentality come from? You saying all semi-closed Deck Block EJ257's will fail? DON'T THINK SO

There has been plenty of modded UK cars with 2.5's & 20G's put in them and got 380/380 and they are still running fine after 2 years and 35K. I know this as I built 2 such cars! This power level is not an issue on the EJ257, it's only once you get past about 1.5 Bar that you need to look into Forged Pistons, etc

Your money your choice. Listen to all the advice given, seek some more, a little more after that and then decide.

Russell

It's a bit of tongue and cheek Russell :( All iam trying to say is, if i was going for big power i wouldn't go near a standard 2.5L.

As you say, it's only good for 380/380 ish and max 1.5 bar of boost because of the soft ( chocolate bit ) pistons.

A standard newage 2.0L STI has forged pistons as standard and can run more bhp and boost ( more chocolate )

To get a big bhp 2.5L engine you will have to open it up and fit rods/ pistons and liner it so why not start with CDB.

Jac

Edited by JAC
fai17

fai17

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Posted
It's a bit of tongue and cheek Russell :( All iam trying to say is, if i was going for big power i wouldn't go near a standard 2.5L.

As you say, it's only good for 380/380 ish and max 1.5 bar of boost because of the soft ( chocolate bit ) pistons.

A standard newage 2.0L STI has forged pistons as standard and can run more bhp and boost ( more chocolate )

To get a big bhp 2.5L engine you will have to open it up and fit rods/ pistons and liner it so why not start with CDB.

Jac

Jac...you cheeky bugger :(

The Head Gasket on the Chocolate 530 is melting so a better combo must be decided on.

But that's what happens when life starts at 2bar without proper fueling :D but st laest the feuling is completely sorted now.

Got to admit that a standard 2.5L without forge internals is not the best start for big horse power but saying that a 2.2L CDB without forge internal is useless aswell.

Either you'll need to forged goodies no matter what block you got for and i'd say the bigger the better.

Oh i can't wait till mines is running proper on 2.3bar. :)

drb5

drb5

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Posted

Stock 2.5 with only drop in pistons and a "up to" 7k rev limit is fine when running around 450-500.

Wouldn't keep the stock pistons if i was running more than about 380, but if you have STi heads of some sorts, i'd fit some stronger rods. Liners are defo NOT a must, unless you intend on going beyond 500-550.

All IMHO of course. :(

higgy

higgy

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Posted

Your all right in one way or another.

For best results and relyalility you should always beef up the internals. One of my Africen friends ren a 2.5 with std internals for approxamatly 5k and rad 440 bhp and when it was striped down to be tweeked two of the bores were scored.

The strongest combo will alwaye be a 2.33 in a closed deck block. Currantly im making 520bhp and 465flbt in a open deck bloch and ive now covered t10k at 2.1 bar of boost. So there are loads of roughts to try.

Sorry if i hijackey your post.

Higgy :(

Jamis

Jamis

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No no higgy this is a great help oh and what sort of money you want for that CDB you have?

Thanks lads for the help and keep all the other info coming,i.e best gearbox and stuff.

Jamis.

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