dynamix

This is down to the nuetral position switch on the gearbox - it is a £50 part best sourced new from subaru. Chucks out random flashing CELs and occasionally misfire codes or cam position sensor faults (none of which are the actual problem) Easy fix and a VERY common problem.

The 2.5 STi 2006/7 have TGV's on them as standard. Just get hold of some Bug/Blob riser stacks and replace your current ones with those. You will get a shed load of CEL's but I (or any other mapper) can switch these off at the time of a remap. Lots of bug/blob wrx tgv's are going faulty now

I presume it has been decatted. That would cause the overboost.

What's the deal with the mag feature comments ?

lol. There is no attempt being made to belittle you by either Harvey or me. You seem to be taking that viewpoint yourself. I love all imprezas and map them for a living - part of this is giving advice to people as to what I believe is wrong with their cars when they say that their cars are running poorly (as does Harvey). A lot of the time this is as a result of the aftermarket dump valve that they have fitted. Simply replacing with the OE dump valve cures the problem and they are happy again (as is the car). I also see cars that wont make boost for whatever reason when mapping - again a lot of the problems exist when an aftermarket dump valve (most likely an ebay special or a baileys) is leaking. Swapping to a std dump valve and problem is solved and mapping gets the end results that the owner and car deserves/wants. Quite often I advise to not spend money unless absolutely needed (and i know Harvey believes the same) - this isnt to hold people back, it is simply sharing some of the things that have worked or not (often called mistakes) that we have done in our journey. A VTA dump valve is right at the top of that list for me. I am also fully aware of the parameters that the ecu can work within (as are all the mappers that I know) and I know that there is no leeway in the std map when it comes to throttle tip in (ie when you first press the accelerator) like there is within the normal closed loop fueling. As a result it cannot do anything about the overfueling that occurs. Wasting fuel up the exhaust can make some nice noises on over-run but it isnt doing anything for power in between gears unless your car is running abnormally (and unsafely) lean otherwise. Any good mapper will be able to correct this overfueling on tip in as part of the mapping process if there is an after market dump valve, but this will only return it to the scenario of correct fueling that exists with the std dump valve. I have no axe to grind with you or anyone else if you choose to spend your money on these things, but I do believe that people should be aware that there will be no performance gain for that money. There are plenty of things you can spend your money on to make it go quicker, stop better or handle better before spending money on sound effects that you rationalise as performance gains cos it cost you £xyz.

It's just a simple question .. will this overly rich running state make it run better or worse ? No one says you have to have a 500bhp+ car (in fact with cars running 450+ you are more likely to be running a MAP based ecu rather than MAF based so venting to atmosphere does not matter.) - but if the car is running overly rich then it will not be running correctly (whether it has 100bhp or 900bhp).

OK - you are entitled to your opinion (well intentioned or otherwise) but really come on guys. Air is measured into the engine by the MAF sensor. The ECU see this and adds the right amount of fuel for that amount of air. When you close the throttle, the std OE dump valve keeps that measured amount of air in the system and the ecu knows that when you re-apply the throttle that this chunk of air needs an extra little bit of fuel to go with it to make it run sweet. Dumping this air outside of the 'system' like with a VTA dump valve will mean that instead of having already metered air in the system to go with the extra fuel it will add, it sucks in and measures another lot and add yet more fuel. As a result, it will be overfueling on gear changes and on lift off. This can make it run jerkily or badly but at the very least is wasting fuel (and yes this does affect the overall fuel economy). Neither the OE dump valve nor any aftermarket will affect how quickly the boost builds (unless you are keeping the system pressurised .. really bad idea or they are leaking which aftermarket ones are prone to do) - both only operate when there is vacuum in the inlet manifold and their job then is to get rid of boost. Sure at really high boost levels (a lot more than most here would be able to run) then an aftermarket dump valve would be adviseable but not for any performance gain. At that level most will be running without a dump valve altogether (as I do). Harvey is very knowledgeable (and correct) but ask your own favourite tuner/mapper/subaru specialist and they will all agree that the dump valve just makes a noise. If you like this noise - great, in which case feast away and get one but it will not make your car quicker. Please provide quantative results on power and acceleration because I would be very interested to see how you believe that they can make any kind of improvement.

All booked in - I am sure Dano will be along after it has been done

I'm with Harvey on this. A Dump Valve that vents to atmosphere will have absolutely NO PERFORMANCE GAINS over a std recirculating one that is in good order. Seen lots of after market ones on cars and my first advice is to put the std one back on. The VTA dump valve will make a noise (great if you like that) but 9 times out of ten will cause running issues. Why waste your money on something that will make your car run worse.

Well done - hope this make some kidlets happy in the hospital over xmas. Not a nice place to be but every little helps.

Keep em coming

Zen in Wellingborough. Not too far away

Doing the Javelin Track Day at Snetterton on the 22nd March. Few of us doing it in scoobies if you fancy joining.

The help from everyone was immense and to be able to drive it home after that shunt was a credit to the strength of the car and no small amount of luck. Also thanks to everyone that said hi on the day or chipped in to help get it back together, notably APT tuning in Norwich, Zen Performance and Roger Clark Motorsport - you all deserve a huge thanks. The damage to the panels is incredibly small in context with the shots: Damage to other stuff: 2 wheels dead Bottom ball joint Front trackrod end Lower wishbone knackered but got me home Brake disc missing a chunk Oil cooler bent and leaking Amazed really as when I was sat in the car after it had landed I thought it would be horrid.

Great project. What is the car going to be used for ? Just track days or something a little bit more competitive?