johns

I've found a clay bar very useful during the summer months when you get welded on insect debris that doesn't wash off easily.

For tar spots I use Tardis: spray on, leave a few minutes then wipe off. I find I get more tar spots during the winter months - must be all those pot holes flicking up tar and crap off the roads.

For the past 6 months I've also used a product called IRON-X. This is a good product for removing lots of almost invisible metal particles that cling to your paintwork. You just spray it on and it turns a lurid purple colour as it dissolves any metal particles. It also stinks a bit when working - so use in a well ventilated area! It's also great at removing stubborn brake dust particles from your wheels as well, though you might need several applications. I found that using tardis then iron-x last weekend that my paintwork was very smooth afterwards (it felt like sandpaper at the bottom of the doors before), and using the clay bar made very little difference. Obviously using the chemicals is a lot less effort (and faster) than claying the car all over, but will be more expensive.

welcome back to Scooby ownership

John

Spotted another of your car on flickr:

Does looks like a fun circuit. Never thought I'd hear of anywhere that makes Knockhill look swish in terms of facilities

John

I've sent him a PM to ask.

SIDC members can get a 10% discount on Knockhill events

I've had mine on for two weeks now - absolute godsend in these conditions. Looks like we have about 9 - 12 inches of snow out this way now, and many of the side roads are completely untreated.

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=270212

Some people posting up photos of McRae from their archives, including some ones of the gathering and en-route to the gathering that I've not seen before.

Looks like you had lots of fun

Nice write up Scott, but a very sad way to end the season with a failure at just the wrong time.

Looking forward to seeing you hopefully compete again next year if they don't bump you all up to Club Pro class, there have been some epic battles this year!

John

When I first got my Spec D, the fuel gauge was awful. It would consume the first quarter of the tank in around 14 - 20 miles, but I'd still get 220 - 240 out of a tank. I had the sender unit replaced under warranty, and although not perfect, it's a lot better than the first one.

Typically its around 40 miles for the first 1/4 tank now, and I'm getting around 250 - 260 out of a tank with regular commuting use (all B roads, no dual carriageway or motorways!). I have had over 300 out of a tank, but that was on a long motorway journey, when it was possible to keep a near constant speed for a few hours.

This thread has been tidied up, with the unhelpful comments removed and it will be closely monitored from now on, so please keep it on topic and constructive!

John

Very nice indeed

I've been running a set of Michelin Aplin PA2s for the past 5 winters (this will be their 6th coming up!!).

Whilst they might not be the ultimate winter tyre, they are perfect for the winter conditions we get up here. I notice a big difference in wet grip, especially stability under braking when the temperatures get lower (below about 5 degrees) and their might be grit and salt on the roads.

On snow and ice the difference is simply staggering. On normal summer tyres (this includes the Goodyear F1s that I've run a few sets of in the past), you are teetering about in poor conditions with almost zero grip. The 4WD of the Impreza keeps you going under most circumstances with the traction, but braking and tunring in (or doing both at the same time) need to be done very slowly and carefully.

With the winter tyres fitted, much of the time you can drive normally and barely notice the poor conditions. When my tyres were new, I actually had to provoke the car in poor conditions to get wheelspin. On normal road tyres, even in third and 4th gear on a standard car wheelspin isn't far away. The biggest difference is in braking. You can actually get reasonable levels or retardation going downhill on a snow and ice covered road. On normal tyres the ABS will just kick in and you'll follow the camber of the road to one side with little or no control.

The road I drive to work has a steep (about 1 in 3 climb), and even with 6 to 9 inches of snow it's no problem to get up and down.

The most memorable example was two years ago, when the junction at the end of my road had been polished to an icy sheen by the cars the previous night. It's a long downhill slope onto the main road. I approached the junction behind a very slow moving Focus (around walking pace) that was struggling to slow down and it was still 50 yards from the junction. I tried my brakes, felt I had quite a bit of grip and was able to overtake the focus on the downslope, brake safely for the junction and pull out onto the main road. The focus eventually slithered to a stop halfway across the main road when I was 100 yeards clear of the junction.

I normally run my winter tyres between the end of November to around mid March. I've done about 20,000 miles on mine now and they are down to about 3- 4mm depth remaining. I'll see how I get on this winter, but might replace them for a new set.

The Michelins are usable in normal road conditions as well, but the steering will feel spongy. The PA2s (now replaced by the PA3s) are speed rated to 130mph. They will understeer easily on warm dry roads, thanks to the softer sidewalls, many sipes in the tread blocks and the high silica content rubber, but you soon get used to this.

I got mine from Costco, who regularly do a 20% offer if you buy a set of 4. Think mine cost £85 each about 6 years ago and it's been the best money I've spent on my Imprezas

John

I can't remember when they moved over to electronic speedo's which are driven by electrical pulses, instead of an actual cable.

If the sensor has been swapped out, then I would check the signals are getting through from the gearbox to the ECU OK.

It's definitely something to do with the speedo. For some delimiters there used to be a small geared adaparter which fitted onto the speedo cable from the gearbox I think, which geared down the rotations to the speedo cable.

About 120mph is the top end for a reasonably powerful Impreza on the main straight at Knockhill (standard cars will be about 100 - 105mph actual) and will be faster than most of the Elises and Caterhams. You might have to back off the throttle just a second or so before the braking point so shouldn't impact your enjoyment too much

Hope you get to the bottom of the problem

John

Looks better than I expected. Notice there is still no rear wiper and I'm not so keen on the aerial, but overall it's not too bad and I could grow to like it.

Sounds like a lot of fun for not much money

I'll need to check my diary to see if I can make it, and if I can you can count me in.

I hope there's a handicap system in place to allow those of us with heavier bones a bit of a chance

John

lol, may the best driver win and not end up on the podium wearing a size 0 Time Attack outfit

I'll have to make sure I keep some free space on my memory cards (ran out at Cadwell!), just in case

John

Pikes peak car - looks like the batmobile!

Image one of these on some Scottish gravel stages

Great write-up Scott. It sure is looking very tight overall going into the final round at Snetterton. I would expect the big power cars to have a distinct advantage on the longer straights - maybe you can borrow Andy.F's engine for a day

John

Well done Scott, great result!

It will be a very tense and close finish to the season now at Snetterton in a few months time.

A couple of the Lateral Performance Impreza, known as "the banana" in flight over the mountain section at Cadwell Park yesterday.

It's to stop spambots from picking up the email address and phone number from the forums. Common way of stopping them getting your details.

Just to add, that if anyone has a set near Aberdeen or any way on the route south, I can also pick them up on the way down for Scott.

John

Performance friction Z compond but as John says they are not cheap and it depends what you plan to do with them. looks like your wheels dont agree with your pad choice tho John

Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring he will be able to advise on a good choice for your usage and he is difficult to beat on price

That's because I haven't washed my wheels in about 3 months Arch I did actually wash them this last weekend, and 95% of the brake dust came off with just soap and a sponge. Unlike the XP8 pads I had before which had unremovable dust after a week of light commuting use!

If you aren't doing track days, or regular "very fast" road driving (ie have been happy with the standard pads), then I would stick with standard type pad materials.

I went for a set of Mintex standard material brake pads from Ebay. Cost me about £32 inc P&P and they have been fine. Only once have I got them hot enough to fade on the road, and then I just eased off for a while til they cooled down.

John