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JohnSt

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Posts posted by JohnSt

  1. 1. If your sidelights won't switch off look for the parking light switch on top of the steering column .

    2.Use the search function on the forum before asking the same old question .

    3. The best first mod for an impreza is the exhaust (backbox at least)

    4. Buy a classic

    5. Make sure you get regular quality oil / filter changes every 3 - 4000 miles

    6. Always run the car on good quality fuel - V Power/BP Ultimate/Tesco

    99 and add octane booster for safety in an unremapped import

    7. Avoid "chip"ing an impreza - get it remapped by an expert like AndyForrest (Apexi for classics, ECUtek for newage)

    8. Sell the Newage and buy a Classic

    9. Always wait till the engine is nice and warm before giving it full pelt and let it cool down befrore switching it off

    10. Upgrade your brakes before modding the engine

    11. A VTA dumpvalve isnt really a good idea unless your car is getting

    remapped to compensate for it. It will momentarily make your car run

    rich as the ecu gives fuel for air which has been dumped and not

    recirculated. All you are missing is the gay noise.

    12. Solid rear droplinks and a decent suspension geometry set-up are probably one

    of the best sub-£100 modifications you can do to a standard car.

    13. new ages will undertseer when at the limit

    14. If you have a classic get Strutt Braces. The improvement is outstanding! If you have a new age...no luck! loL!

    15. Clean out the boost solenoid once in a while and dont fill engine oil right up to max.

    16. Go to the SIDC track days at knockhill, you get free tuition from an

    instructor if you want (plus ensure you wear Cat boots far better that

    way!!!!)

    17. Love every minute of driving and owning it (it will make handing over the credit card much easier

    18. Goto meets/Knockhill/Crail and tell us who you are?We don't bite sometimes

    20. Join the SIDC and you'll get discounts on insurance and dealer supplied parts in addition to track days.

    19. For some obscure reason there is a lot of mention of goats &

    homosexuals in here. Do NOT let this put you off our forums. 99% of our

    members are "normal" but we are all fans of The Hoff.

    20. Always prefill the oil filter when doing an oil change

    21. Dont believe everything you read on the forums.

    22. Send off for a Shell card

    23. What ever BHP you get, you will never be happy

    24. BLUE is the best colour.

    25. Is your car standard? - leave it that way.

    26. Watch out for the Impreza's "lift-off" oversteer. It's wicked, particularly on a wet Knockhill!

    27. wave to other scoob drivers

    28. never buy a set of lexus rear lights[+o(]

    29. sidc love some photography of your beloved

    30. dont sell your scoob you will regret it and will end up with another 1

    31. The best place to hang out on saturday nights is at OSIDC

    32. Modding is for MEN

    33. Going JDM is for winners..........leave the chocolate UK's to the Willy Wonka lovers!

    34.^^Andy speaks the truth, JDM is the way forward!!

    35. K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupid and don't mod what doesn't need modding (dump valves etc)

    36.NEVER let the other half known how much youve spent on the car.she will be jelious!

    37. Dont go to Halfords for your servicing parts - they are more likely to give you filters for a lada or skoda.

    38. the bright button really does just make the clock brighter

    39. Never believe anything read on Ebay

    40. Never buy a impreza when you get 10 spare ST2 (spaceman)

    41. CLASSIC ARE The GREATEST IMPREZA BUILT.

    42. Try not run your impreza top end as the boxes dont last long(went through 3 last time)

    43. Believe the petrol gauge - yes it does use that much!

    44. if you have mudflaps watch when reversing near kirbs or they get caught on wheels and bye bye back bumper

    45. Your steering wheel lock isn't broken, you're supposed to have to turn it 180 degrees before it engages.

    46. Boost solenoid 'chatter' isn't necessarily indicative of a fault (although the Scoob moguls say it can be eradicated the by above-mentioned cleaning).

    47. Uneven tyre wear is common.

    48. 10 miles use out of a set of newage shocks isn't unheard of - but if you're still under warranty, they're covered.

    49. The rear proximity alarm (on newer Imprezas) tells blatant lies in the rain.

    50. Door panels dent quite easily.

    51. It's won't stop entertaining you on twisty roads!

    52. Never use the standard horn in an aggressive manner in a road rage situation, you will just look silly!! :guinness:

    53. You will find that Classic owners are really insecure: they talk about how good their cars are over their Newage counterparts. They be fooling themsleves but they soon realise not to listen to what TheWelsho has to say

    54. Welsho knows as much about cars as Fish know about Riding Bicycles ! ;)

  2. Neil, it does all of the above and many more. This is just the wiring to make the car go Vroom Vroom.

    Jim, Agree, 4 fuel maps, 4 ignition and compensation for damded neer everything. The Simtek is also excellent it was a close run thing, this came down to what I need this to do, long term.

  3. Spent this evening drawing a schema for the new SOLARIS ecu.

    I've been debating in my head for a year now about what to use Features Vs Cost.

    The SOLARIS came out a clear winner, the fact that the best Subaru Suppliers/Mappers in the country have signed up for this and the features available............ no brainer !!

    Here's my Rev 1.1 wiring Schema

    SOLARISV11-3.jpg

    Edited 'cause it should have been V1.1.3 ;)

  4. if others back you up like many did when I had the shoulder strap attached to the seat bolt, then I'll consider another solution.

    :rotfl:

    You asked for confirmation and that's what I and others have done.

    You still can't see why it's wrong can you ?

  5. Well John, you asked for it ya nugget :rotfl: Nobody is laughing, but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing !!! Reminds me of someone driving around recently with 3 wheel nuts out of 5 installed :rotfl:

    If you don't want to invite critisism then I suggest you don't post your efforts publicly.

    Those eye bolts are meant to be screwed into a captive nut in a part of the body which also has a spreader plate to spread the load in the event of a collision.

    Using a bit of flat steel (if it is even steel ?) bar, especially just bolted on like that where the forces in a collision are actually at 90deg to any strength is silly. As Arch has pointed out the hole creates a stress point, it will just fold there !!

    Do your self a favour, unbolt that wee plate, stick it in a vice up to half its height and hit the top with a hammer and it'll bend like Boy George at a Bennets Open Night !!

    The one holding the seat belt clip is only marginally better and only because the load on it would be a stretching one.

  6. John, the 'little bits of metal' extending the seatbelt clip ! It also looks like you've used the same gauge of material to mount the eye bolts. Is this steel or Ally and how thick is it ? Please elaborate a little and don't crash into that wall just yet !!!!!!

    thanks ---john---

  7. This look worked for the RCM gobstopper! B):)

    ^^^^^^^^ Give the man a prize :rotfl: Though I'm much less woried about looks than Function ;)

    Dale, the removed piece is replaceable for tootling about on the road :lol: There is no such thing as an undertray off the shelf :) Lucky we have our own version of 'Bob the Builder' to hand, i.e. 'Craig the Coachbuilder' , can he fix it ? :D Wha'da you think :P

    ---john---

  8. Well, you can't keep a Good Man and his 'Pad Saw' down I always say ! Craigs' been busy in the garage

    The rear of the car has looked something along these lines since build :lol:

    TOTBVII056.jpg

    Having thought about it the clam shape of the rear bumper is nothing but a big parachute ;) So Craig was at it today with his trusty Saw and the result looks like this.

    Image055.jpg

    Still a job in progress, but well on it's way. I'm sure most will recognise where the idea came from :)

  9. Rocker cover gaskets are handed, so the part number you have above is only one side of the equation.

    A ordered a 'pair' from a dealer once. I received a 'pair', a pair of LHS ones :P

    I don't want to mention the dealer by name, but it was them ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :rolleyes:

    Simple mistake, but cost me time and caused me pain.

  10. As Arch has pointed out Front and centre Diffs share the same oil. You are obviously concious of the need for friction modifiers for your rear Plate diff, same applies to the DCCD, it's just an electromechanical Plated diff.

    I have no experience of Silkoline products, so can't comment on them.

    However I use Motul 300V for the engine in the race car and Millers CRX LS in the Box and rear diff.

    My advice to you, if you haven't ordered already is call Alyn at AS performance and he will provide you with the 'best' thing for the job.

    ---john---

  11. Worn bushes, knocking things about hitting potholes, duff dampers lots of other things can have changed in 14 months.

    I can't comment on Hypertechs work, never used them. The reason I first went to john is that it's what he does all day everyday. So who has the experience ?

    My philosophy has always been, use a specialist for a specialist job :)

  12. Kenneth Brown Motor Engineering

    36 Hepburn Road, Block 108, Hillington Industrial Estate

    Glasgow

    G52 4RT

    nice bunch of guys they use my work alot davie, well worth a trip and afaik they are very reasonably priced

    chrissy

    Davie, I have a conundrum here. ^^^^^^^

    If you are setting up a competition car, Kenny is the boy. He's helped me for years and I'll be in there in the next week.

    He will make a smashing job of this , but it'll be done on string gauges so expect the labour to reflect this.

    ProGrip in Bonnybridge, are who have squared my car for the last four seasons. State of the art gear , as long as you want factory specs, or are prepared to tell John exactly what you do want. Lots of garages can do this, John does it 8 hours a day, hence my choice.

    An hour will do it and for a road car the better option cost wise.

    ---john---

  13. Hi David, it was 1040 on the Weigh Bridge last time I weighed it, since then, the pad saw has removed 5kg and the front brakes disks alone are 2.8 kg lighter than the Cast Brembo Disk, havent compaired the calipers yet.

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