cusco kid

Only just mind geo

wanna race big boy

I can just see it...... Witeline zimmer in the making

Jac

bet it goes roond corners great with nae understeer jac

geo

Nice one Kaylz, bring him along to the next central pensioners meet

bobby

hoi i am 53 and still breathing and without a zimmer ,good on the auld yin go ahead and join up m8

we can still show these young yins a thing or two ////and i can still outdrive most of the young guns out there

geo

Looking good Shelly, coming along nicely. Only thing I'm not sure of is the spacing of the SUBARU letters.

about the subaru badge ,no nice ,car looking GREAT shelly you now got the bug if youll pardon the pun

need you now to get it handling

cheers geo

Hi all,can i draw on anyones expert knowledge??? what's the best way to improve my prodrives pride and joys handling and looks? i was looking at tein coilovers for the car as loads of folk have told me you get what you pay for and any one of their kits would be the best.....any other suggestions?? how low can i go before i need camber adjustment etc etc my cars currently sitting on 18" pff's. all replies welcome...cheers John

hi m8 if you go for coil overs and go too low you can suffer bump steer on compression .this can be cured by fitting a roll center adjusting kit

which is 2 ball joints and 2 track rod ends that are modified to combat the problem you can always go for a good set of road springs and pillowball top mounts that give you the ability to adjust camber /caster piccs below

underster can be eliminated by ,first rear rollbar then anti lift kit ,to give 0.5 deg extra caster pics below

front bar is also a good handling mod 24mm rear 22mm front alloy drop links also to cope with the increase in roll stiffness

the key to the handling is camber/caster control

bump and rebound settings /spring rates

roll stiffness

shore hardness of bushes (poly) the ability to keep the geo settings within spec at all times

cheers geo

I've heard a few bodies down south running 12.5% without issue.

Does anyone else use more than 10%? Don't want to blow up going round Knockhill!

Cheers

hi m8 we run 15% max with shell op max ,no problems with it

cheers geo

looking good mate geo

Will with interest mate. My insurance is still a tad high to get mods underway just yet and there's a couple of other current financial priorities at home... aged 9 months and 2 years respectively! *chuckle*

'suppose the ultimate Q is whether you think she'll handle as well as th new age or classics without selling a kidney!

Re: springs (and I'm probably on a "teaching-granny-to-suck-eggs" effort here...) yon Eibach Pro-kit spring setup seems popular, although I'd rate your opinion on it. I see Litchfield are selling the same AST kit used on the current JDM-based Type-20. One assumes that replacing the whole setup'll do a better job than modding components... or is it a bit too expensive and drastic.

hi bal /i dont like coil overs on a road car( imho) there to harsh for my tastes but you can find a good compromise using sti bits and after market bits to get the qualities you require.now if your talking track car thats a different ball game ,doing that too .

remember that most of us older guys will be letting our wifes drive the car ,and you dont want her always moaning that the car rattles ,klonks and vibrates all the time .we are looking for a balance between power and handling ,or at least i want that sti feel back without breaking the bank

cheers geo

It's occurred to me the all Scoobs are soon to be pretty rare........

1993 classics are now like 16 years old.....

When do you think we'll all start talking about restoration rather then modifying ?

My old boy used to own old MG's, Lotii Elans, Mini's, Scimitars etc and he basically restored them all and drove them as they ought to be driven.

Question is :-

When will we slide into the pipe and slippers phase and old be like auld badgers at an auto mobile club ? A concours competition, a picnic and them some pimms.

OR will we still all be belting round KH and trying to get 2000 bhp out of these beauties.

I ask this question as I am slowly modding but also doing a lot of preventative maintenance and replace dubious bumpers, re-spraying sections and rust proofing right now.

It's basically future proofing.

I notice guys like Arch spend a lot of time scrubbing and undersealing etc.

Cheers

Aristotle

cal if you are going to restore a car dont use underseal m8 .wax the car .underseal allows water under it and then it falls off and you got problems

i always coat and inject my cars with merc wax inc driveshafts, hubs, struts, brake pipes etc

one of my old cars a seat now 7 years old, that i still see every year for mot and checkover is like new underneath mot guy says he cant believe how good it looks for its age

cheers geo

Diggin this one up again...

And...?

well i have been to the same bit of road in the wet and dry

no problems this time went round at the same speed no worries ,then increased the entry speed by 5 mph ,still here 10 still here 15 mph guess what ,yes still here . the locals in the area were gettin very up set as this loud white subaru was passing the farms and houses many times within 40 mins so i made a quick getaway before the cops were called, would not have looked good in the local press (ex police fleet manager reported for annoying locals and sheep )lol

anyway the car handled great but still much more room for improvement ,springs too soft ,ride height too high ,needs anti lift kit or maybe top mounts to give me more caster /camber,also the car is under tyred needs more rubber and more offset

watch this space

cheers geo

Please explain. It thought stiffening the rear, would allow the back end to be more planted. I have droplinks link front and rear 24mm ARB (middle setting) ALK and coilovers (Tein SuperStreet).

Last two times out at Knockhill, the back end was snapping round on me much more than it ever did, totally lost confidence in it now. Mind you, the last two times at the track, I also had different tyres front and rear. I had Faulkens on the front and RE070s on the rear the first time around, and then I swapped them around the following session, but with similiar results. I was coming off at parts of the track were I have never come off before, most annoying.

hi welsho, theres one of your problems your tyre combo falkins and reo 70s ,you should never run 2 different tyres to gether(seen your driving m8 you need all the help you can get lol)

these tyres have different handling qualities alltogether ,they would be fighting each other ,at least give the suspension a chance to work bud

bet if you had reo,s all round it would have been different

here is a wee guide to anti roll bars

20mm rear bar produces more front end grip, more neutral handling, reduction in very fast corner roll oversteer.

22mm rear bar produces more front end grip, more neutral handling, reduction of roll oversteer and allows driver to induce wash-out oversteer easier.

24mm rear bar produces all of the above but makes oversteer even easier.

22mm front and 24mm rear bars produces a lot more grip with neutral handling and induceable oversteer. To allow this set up to produce the extra grip, decent tyres are needed.,seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee theres your problem

24mm front and 27mm rear bars produces similar effects as 22/24mm front and rear bars, but needs racing tyres to work well.

because you are running c/overs you need to fit a roll centre adjustment kit ,to reduce bump steer and give extra front grip

cheers geo

Thanks!

Suspension setup at the mo:

Standard dampers (KYB)

PRodrive Springs

Front top strut brace

Rear strut brace

Whiteline Drop links on rear (steel)

Perrin drop links on front (Only because the standard onese were worn and needed a replacement)

Standard ARB's

No ALK

Kinda looking to get a set of coilover this year sometime with a bit of luck.. Probably the BC's which are floating around a lot at the moment.. But the rear ARB is next on the handling shopping list

ok here is what you req to get better handling

no 1 anti lift kit //if you are doing track days a lot, motorsport bushes

no 3 24mm rear arb

no 4 22mm front arb

no5 roll centre adjust kit

no 6 pineapple bushes diff control (poly

no 7 steering rack bushes (poly

no 8 top mounts uniball type for extra adjustment for camber or caster//to fit std struts

no9 diff subframe lock kit /the rear subframe can move under extreme conditions,that locks it in place ,no more rear end wandering

no10 under car brace ,to strenghten up the bottom suspension points

here are some piccs of the bits on kevs type r

anti lift kit

pineapple bushes

steering rack bushes

roll centre adjust kit 2 ball joints 2 track rod ends

the diff lock kit

under brace

top mounts

this will make your car a handling monster,without going to coil overs

you could also drop the ride height another 15mm lower than p/drive springs

then if you want to go to the next level

you can do all the car with motorsport poly bushes,and adjustable track arms (acid has them on his car)

hope this helps m8 , need any other info just ask

cheers geo

I only put on the strut brace to my RB so i had somewhere to hang my magic tree air freshners - fcukin things stink and make me sneeze.................

good yin bud geo

Nae worries mate..! For a moment there I questioned my own understanding of it all

Yeah by bro found that the front end turned in so nicely that the car felt more balaced with the rear end following nicely without the need to flick the diff to the rear to induce oversteer (reduce understeer). He insists it should of been a standard component on the RB320..

Have been considering removing my front strut brace recently to try soften the front slightly.. At least until I get a uprated rear ARB.. I reckon the front of the car is currently way too stiff (compared to the rear end) and when cornering the rear end wants to roll yet the front wants to stay flat putting excess pressure on the front outside wheel. Which normally is good for grip but too much and it's forcing the car wide and feels nasty and almost unpredictable... really happened after replacing worn front drop links.. After fitting uprated ones the car hasn't felt as stable in the bends.. Got solid drop links and strut braces front and rear, but should have got the rear ARB done first.. Live and learn..

hi there the rear arb if 24mm will sort out the problem by allowing the front to grip more

do you have an alk fitted and or coil overs

get back to me geo

2 out of the three piccs are sti not wrx

i would no buy a wrx either, yuk rather have a barratt hoose ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, sti rules ya bas

Geo

I am taking my strut brace off I reckon thats why I hit the wall at Doune

he he

geo

I thought that's what I was saying...Adding strut brace increased front end grip/turnin/sharpness *confused*

sorry m8 i misread your post ,yea see it now.//// more front grip will only give you oversteer when driving to a point that the rear tyres loose grip ,usually when driving fast beyond the limit of adhesion . i hate the dreaded understeer ,love oversteer.

with front end grip being enhanced the driving pleasure becomes greater ,more in control.

when doing accident inv i saw more cars that had been in accidents caused by understeering than oversteering that drivers could not control.

again sorry for missreading your post cheers geo

Dunno if you've noticed, but my bro reckons after fitting the front strut brace to his RB that the front was MUCH sharper! And comign off motorway slip roads it really felt like it wanted to oversteer saying he didn't think there was any need to whip the diff to the rear as the car was so much sharper when cornering..

I think the effect a strut brace has on a car depends on the rest of the supsensipn set-up if it's allready pretty stiff the strut brace can make a difference but on standard squishy suspension, it's probably not goign to make much difference.. Unless you hit kerbs side on

I did think the car turned in sharper after fitting mine to the WRX but thought it was all in my head at the time..

sorry m8 but that was just you mind playing tricks with your sencess .the top strut mountings dont move that much

the opposite should happen ,the strut brace should promote more front end grip if it stiffens up the top mounts .

handling on a unitary construction bodyshell is only as good as the torsional regidity of the shell ,ie if the shell twists as the suspension loads up ,the result is poor handling .thats why top rally teams and good rally car or race saloon builders build a roll cage that have multi pick up points througout the shell. they all locate to the rear suspension turrets and front top mounts as well to feed suspension loads into them like a space frame inside the car. the stronger the bodyshell is the better the handling, the longer the shell will last and give driver and co driver more protection in an accident .

cars now are made out of H.S.L.A.S, thats High Strength Low Alloy Steel, for low weight and as much strength as possible .a ring cage is put in at the design stage to give regidity and passenger crash protection

the classic subaru now getting on in years needs all the help it can get hence roll cages strut braces under braces all play a part in our performance tunning ,corrossion and old age can affect the ability of the shell to do its job., next time you are in a scrapyard lookin for bits have a look at some of the older cars and look at how the corrossion has weakend the structure of the bodyshell

cheers geo

Think I'll leave mine on as well but i might go home and slacken all of the bolts...............

your takin the piss now aint ya lol

here is but a few of my past years of building model cars you have just made my sons mind up he is now going to build a model of his typr-r

this model took me 120 hours to build its a tamiya mazda race car with super detailing under the bonnet

the peugeots were a experement with halfords spray cans ,how to fade in colours

dont have much time to build now ,but i will get back to it someday

cheers geo

It was a year and a half ago that happened mate. Credit crunch never done it although I was made redundant three weeks ago! Double doh!

Cusco - agree to disagree mate!!! Explain the huge dent in my drivers wing that never hit anythin then! That was the strut twisting out of place and hence the whole car. Exactly what happened to my mates RS turbo 15 years ago.

dont want to argue with you m8 but i have 37 years experience in the motor trade .i lectured in vehicle construction/accident investigation for 20 years at tulliallan police college , wrote a book while there on the effects of impact on motor cars when

collisions take place . i have attended seminars with ford ,rover, vauxhall on vehicle deformation

when i retired from spc i worked with a accident inv firm called incinalisis .my roll was do a full examination of the car to determin what was the cause of the accident , working out deformation of bodyshells ,we could work out vehicle speeds at time of collision

i was lucky enough to be invited to the seminars in austria ,twice held in lintz at the workshops of the firm that does more accident invesigation than even our own TRRL ,they wrote the computer programs ,and hold the patent to PC Crash computer system that brittish police now use .mercedes, porsche ford and many other car companys take info from them

i dont want to get into a slagging match with you ,but a strut brace is not strong enough to cause that damage to your bodyshell , the brace would deform before it would feed those kind of loads into the strut area , there must have another reason for the problem

cheers geo

Cos the impact on the wheels when up through the brace and twisted the whole car. My mechanic came out to see car in yard and confirmed that it was twisted and that it was due to it going through the brace.

Simple physics mate

the strut brace is there to help put strength between the strut tops under normal cornering conditions its the 3 sides of a box syndrome

3 sides = flex add top fixture to give strength thats what a strut brace does

the brace is not that strong that it would kink your chassis ie top munts or inner wings

geo

Anyone use these or are they just cheap useless tat?

Cheers

Gaz

they have got to help i recon but most of the crud inside the engine aint magnetic,so the filter shouldretain it but it will catch all magnetic particles which is a bonus .

i just changed urabus engine oil in his rb5 and checked it for metal particles, clean bill of health .he was well pleased

geo

hi m8 ,how do you recon that your strut brace twister the chassis ,go no tell us bud .or are you just having a laugh

cheers geo

na, no one hurt -just my pride as you say. Took corner comin off M876 at larbert and hit the feckin bumps on cross over on a real slippy road which caused it to swap ends before I could react!

Was repairable but cost was going to be the same as value. They never put it on a jig machine though and I know the whole chassis was twisted due to the dent on the drivers side when I had not hit anything!

Just glad I never done myself in. Police said I am the first one that never ended up in the field. Had been 8 crashes there in 7 months according to them, but falkirk council wont put the sticky tarmac down till someone is killed according to him!

hi m8 ,how do you recon that your strut brace twister the chassis ,go no tell us bud .or are you just having a laugh

cheers geo