Heat Wrap yeah or nae?

[gus the bus]

getting the downpipe fitted this Friday and just wondering if its worth getting it wrapped? whats the benefits? and how much (in length) will a need to do the DP on a classic.

Cheers

Gus

[imprezapete]

Totally worth it, With no heat shield your drying all your lubs around the pipe. When I got mine fitted by Chris Allan and recommended that for that reason, he says the driver side wheel and suspension arm and such tend to have all their lubs dry up due to being exposed to the increased heat.

Cost: 20 for the material, 10 for the clips and tons of man handling!

I think I got 10m length from here: http://www.proven-products.co.uk/products/cooltek.htm

Me and Andy did it together, recommendation is to soak it just before you put it on. Messy fun! []

Also someone said it helps with performance by keeping the temps up or in the pipe... not sure how it helps but thats what they say lol
 

[RA Dunk]

im no techie genious gus pants [] but i think its worth it for reducing underbonnet temps, im sure somebody can explain in better detail shortly

[fai17]

Yeah and you can get it from Hypertec for good price too[]

[oz *sti*]

Yeah it's really worth it, I done my headers, up pipe and down pipe, got mine from proven products, 10m will do the down pipe. I found it best to put it on wet first, then when it's bolted back on the car start the car let it run and burn the wrap in, because it is wet it will shrink and tighten around the pipe as it dry's, oh and wear a pair of gloves.

 

[scientific steve]

i've got my up and down pipe done, also have a turbo blanket (just to keep it all nice and tucked up [])

the thinking is to get as much of the hot gasses out and flowing out of the zorst and not just sit and build up in the engine bay

talked to the chaps at AWD about this, deffo get the stuff wet before putting it on,

was told theres and after spray you put on to keep the wrap at it's best for as long as poss,

this is the part i cant remember,

i dont know if you spary it on when it's still wet or after it's dry

i'm sure that someone can point you in the right direction

[gus the bus]

Thanks for aw yer input guys! looks like i'll be putting in on then[][] been offered enough to do my DP for a tenner[Y] plus I'll get the clips ordered up.

Cheers

Gus

[imprezapete]

Gus you can get a silicon spray for after that seals the material but its not cheap, also the reason you wet it first and use gloves is because its got fibreglass in the material and you know how shitty that stuff is to handle.

 

[gus the bus]

Pete,

 Read about that stuff too but as you say its nae cheap.

 I realised it was fibreglass when I touched the stuff[:S] got plenty pairs of gloves when it comes to fitting[Y]

Thanks again.

Gus

[arch]

Gus as with most things you get what you pay for.

You can get top quality heat products from here http://www.ekmpowershop4.com/ekmps/shops/pipewerx/index.asp > this is on a scoobynet group buy and you get 30% off the prices.

[Y]

[gus the bus]

Cheers Arch,

The stuff I'm getting comes from there mate[Y]. The guy I bought it off bought waaaaaaaay too much so had plenty to do my DP too[]

looks pretty decent stuff.

Gus 

 

[Guest]

yes it is worth every penny getting it wrapped it is also possible to get a spray on ceramic aswell. wetter the better aswell as the more it soaks up the more it will shrink when it dry's!

colder under bonnet temps means colder air being fed to the engine and means better combustion.

be warned though dont just use jubilee clips to hold it on as the expend and become loose after a while and will fall off. get stretchy stel wire and use that aswell.

[~ ~ Cal ~~]

<p>Totally worth it, With no heat shield your drying all your lubs around the pipe. When I got mine fitted by Chris Allan and recommended that for that reason, he says the driver side wheel and suspension arm and such tend to have all their lubs dry up due to being exposed to the increased heat.</p><p>Cost: 20 for the material, 10 for the clips and tons of man handling!</p><p>I think I got 10m length from here: http://www.proven-products.co.uk/products/cooltek.htm</p><p>Me and Andy did it together, recommendation is to soak it just before you put it on. Messy fun! []</p><p>Also someone said it helps with performance by keeping the temps up or in the pipe... not sure how it helps but thats what they say lol

 </p>

Pete - did you get the clips for the same place and if so what were they called ( make & dimensions etc) ?

Ta muchly

Cal

[frank c]

Can you not use the the clips/ties for cv boots ?

[craig_harey]

i have loads of stainless steel wire as friend dad is fencer if any one needs some . i used it on my downpipe then sprayed over it with heat paint stuff

[fai17]

i have loads of stainless steel wire as friend dad is fencer if any one needs some . i used it on my downpipe then sprayed over it with heat paint stuff

I have found that wire are better than the ties but you do need the tool that twists it to lock it in place.

[thefastone]

I have found that wire are better than the ties but you do need the tool that twists it to lock it in place.

Nah, you can do Locking wire by hand, you dont need a tool to use it, Ive been doing it that way, for years, and get just as good results!

[WUZ]

I have found that wire are better than the ties but you do need the tool that twists it to lock it in place.

No you don't need the tool Peter, a normal pair of pliers will do just fine.

Russell

[~ ~ Cal ~~]

Thanks for the advice fellas

Cal

[fai17]

No you don't need the tool Peter, a normal pair of pliers will do just fine.

Russell

Yes but the tool just make it so much easier and faster.

[harvey_smith]

There are two main types of heatwrap, the white woven fibre glass material that is applied dry and another product, usually light brown in colour applied damp but NOT wet.

I use a lot of heatwrap and have tried all types I have come across but settled on DEI. Applied damp and left to dry out overnight close to a boiler. Another advantage with DEI is that it has a marker down each edge about 5 or 6 mm in so that it is easy to judge the correct overlap. Unlike some wrap, it is close woven and does not opwn up when pulled tight. The wrap must be kept tight for a satisfactory result and longveity.

Do not double wrap or you may cause problems with the material you are wrapping as too much heat is retained.

For a 3" Classic downpipe you will use around 3/4 of a roll of 2" wide X 50' DEI.

I used to spray the wrap with an aerosol, also from DEI but stopped doing this when I found it caused the wrap to go brittle at an earlier stage and then flake offcausing premature failure.

Tie wire, stainless, 302 grade, around 32 thou" or .81mm is best for me and far more economical than clips.

A good tie tool is expensive so unless you are doing lots of wrapping not a cheap solution but it does make the tie process far quicker and consistent.

The reasons for wrapping are to reduce under bonnet temperatures and retaining heat in the exhaust gas improves flow. This results in quicker response and earlier spool. On a downpipe on its own, that may not be noticable but if you wrap D/P, up-pipe, headers and turbo exhaust housing (NOT compressor turbine) you will notice a quantifiable benefit.

[harvey_smith]

Here are some photographs of OE headers ported and wrapped with DEI 2" exhaust wrap and wire tied.

[fai17]

Your wrapping are so neat Harvey