coolant system, help needed....

[scoobyfuzzy]

right guys, ive just changed ma radiator, as old 1 was leaking, filled it up with water,  lest it running for 10 mins or so, then took it for a wee run, it seemed to run ok, but when i got back home, popped the bonnect to check for leaks, but noticed that the top rad hose was very hot, and the bottom rad hose was only luke warm, thats not right, is it?

any ideas guys?  mayb an air lock??

 

fuzzy

[diffbuster]

I have a fool proof way of bleeding the system, it works everytime and i have never needed to top up afterwards. We are talking 30+times..

Fill the system until the water level no longer goes down in the header tank.

Take off the hose that goes from the actual rad to the header tank (not the expansion pipe), take this off at the header tank end.

Now...

Whilst the small pipe is VTA squeeze the top rad hose (Fat Pipe), before letting go of the top rad hose put your finger over the small pipe and then release the top rad hose.

This process syphon's (sp) water into the rad and air out.

Keep doing this until the water level gets near to the bottom of the header tank, then refill the header tank to the top.

So... (leave cap off at all time)

Fill up header tank until level no longer goes down.

Remove pipe from rad to HT at HT end.

Squeeze and hold top rad hose.

Put finger over pipe from rad and hold it there.

Release top rad hose.

Squeeze and hold top rad hose.

Put finger over pipe from rad and hold it there.

Release top rad hose.

repeat until water level in HT reaches the bottom of it and top up.

repeat this process until coolant comes out of the small pipe when you squeeze top rad hose.

When this happens re-fit small pipe onto HT.

TBH this is all that i ever do, but just to make sure that every bit of air is out, take off the pipe that goes from the turbo to the HT and do the same as before with this pipe. However, you will find that coolant comes out first squeeze.

This works with a completely dry coolant system to a 2/3 full + airlock..

copied from elsewhere but its the way forward.

[paddy247]

Or

1. Disconect the small hose that goes from the H/T to the rad (highest point of rad) at the rad end.

2. Fill Via H/T whilst keeping finger over the hose, when coolant comes out the rad pop the hose back on.

3. Continue to fill via the header tank untill a couple of cm from the top.

4. With rad cap left of, set the heater and fan controlls to medium and start car.

5. Allow the car a few mins for hot air to start to come through the fans, keep checking for this as you keep an eye on the level in the header tank and top up a little when required.

6. As the hot air is now coming through the fans, and the level in the H/T is stable with no air bubles be expelled, its safe to put the rad cap on.

Job Done.

[Carson]

When adding, replacing or servicing the cooling system always use Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant.

Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant is a phosphate (non-amine) type and is specially formulated for all Subaru vehicles equipped with aluminum engines and radiators. Coolant of other types may not provide the proper protection to aid against corrosion of aluminum parts.

If an equivalent must be used, make sure it is a phosphate (non-amine) type. As a reminder, use of Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant is mandatory on all repairs paid for by Subaru of America, Inc. that require the replenishment of coolant. This holds true for any claim type.

Do not use flushing machines.

If a flushing machine has been used to service other brand vehicles with copper radiators, a chemical reaction between copper ions and Subaru coolant may occur. This could also cause clogging of the radiator.

If regular flushing is required, only use fresh tap water. Do not use hard water. Hard water will create calcium build up which will clog the radiator.

Whenever the coolant is changed, you must add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner has been tested and approved for aluminum engines and radiators.

Do not use after-market coolant reinforcement agents, sealers and/or flushing agents as those chemicals could corrode aluminum parts.

Can you get this conditioner/coolent from the dealer? Or anyone recommend right good alternitives?

SUBARU coolant #000016218 is in the manual

thanks

chris

[dipsy]

Comma does the green antifreeze

[thefastone]

I was told just back in autumn to have the heater control fully hot to get all of the air out of the heater matrix... rather than Medium...

[ur.a.bus]

this might sound like a very silly question also sorry for hijacking the thread but i thought now's a good time to ask:)

what is the header tank and the expansion tanks for? i know both are the cooling system but i am used to having a non turbo car and just having the 1 point to fill up with coolant.

if i needed to top up coolant would it go in ht or et?

[Carson]

I hijacked this post 1st bus man !

A quick stabb at the expansion header -

*Its there incase you have low water in the main tank?

*Allows air to be released if there is any circulating, reason its got a wee hose comin out it?

A could be wrong:P

dipsey,

I looked up that green antifreeze by comma and it says "amine and phosphate free" is that good or bad in relation to

Genuine Subaru Long Life Coolant is a phosphate (non-amine) type and is specially formulated for all Subaru vehicles equipped with aluminum engines and radiators. Coolant of other types may not provide the proper protection to aid against corrosion of aluminum parts.

chris

Edited February 19, 2008 by Carson

[dipsy]

did you look on the aplication list xtreme green antifreeze for every turbo impreza

[Carson]

did you look on the aplication list xtreme green antifreeze for every turbo impreza

I didnt

Just had a look on application guide

and it comes up Xstream Green Extralife - Concentrated Antifreeze

thanks dips

chris